dr_mat

There are side repeaters on ebay, but tbh they seem to be of pretty variable quality. The Halfords ones are at least *exactly* the same as OE, but not Orange, and have the same solid feel to them.

Dunno, but you can buy 'em in most Halfords stores for £15 RRP. You may be able to find a discount.

This *has* to be in the FAQ??

I'm with you on this mate. I think the vibratechnic mount is superb but it does make the car feel a shade less refined :? Mike Thank you! :) I'm not the only one then! :)

Well not everyone gets annoyed by a 0.5db increase in noise level :? It's a 10 year old car with 10 year old soundproofing technology. I'd rather a very tiny bit of noise/vibration than sloppy engine mounting 8) I didn't measure it.. And it doesn't exactly drown out the other noises that this 9 year old car makes, for sure, but it's a less pleasant noise than that made by the engine for example, so I'd rather not have it, thanks. Oh and I said it wasn't much, didn't I? Jeez, anyone would think I was advocating ear plugs! You lot and your engine mounts, you're obsessed!

..well.. depends how you define "miniscule". It's liveable, certainly, but I was annoyed to discover that particular side-effect, as it takes away some of the classy feel of the car, IMHO.

Yup.

Where is the sensor supposed to be mounted, on a Corrado inlet manifold? Cos the manifold gets quite hot. If it's reading 30 degrees instead of 100 degrees, that'll mean it'll be overfuelling by quite a lot I'd guess. If anything, if you sit in traffic for 30 minutes and heat soak the under-bonnet area you'll probably find it gets less bad, cos the difference is smaller. That's IF I'm not talking through my arse..

If the ECU is being told it's inlet temp is way wrong compared to the real inlet temp it will feck up the fuelling - it uses a combination of the MAF and the inlet temp to work out how much air went in (the MAF tells it air flow rate, not air mass rate contrary to it's name). Does the bad running coincide with hot days, or sitting in traffic, or something like that?

you don't, you take it all out and leave it on the grass. That's what I thought.. What about the trip to/from the track then! I can't help but go round corners from time to time.. :|

Much as I took a LOT of persuading, I've had a VT engine mount fitted to my VR, at the same time as the Schrick went on (keeping that extra slug of torque under control).. I can definitely recomend it. I'm not really into putting uprated mounts on, but this has improved the gearchange, and made the front end feel a little tighter all round. Plus, as it's the front engine mount, you can get away with making it much stiffer without really getting any additional vibration through into the cabin - there's a lot of metal that will flex and lose the vibration before it's transmitted round to the interior of the car. I suspect the rear mounts wouldn't be so quiet if they were harder (I know that the gearbox mount transmits a lot more transmission whine for example..).

OT but when you're on the track and carrying a trolley jack(!!) and full-size spare, how do you stop it bouncing around the boot and putting holes in the bodywork?! Also, back on-topic, I wonder if you've checked all the injectors again - I know you had trouble with one of 'em a while back, maybe the others were marginal too?

Actually a mate has an Audi A3 1.8T quattro and that tends to wear tyres a) very fast and b) very unevenly. Nothing wrong with that one, either, no crashes, no twists, no bends. The rear shocks were replaced at 30k miles and it still wears unevenly. I don't recall him ever saying there was that kind of extreme wear pattern, but it's certainly a bit *weird".. I couldn't tell ya what it's called tho!

Reihemotor.

I suppose it could also be a wheel bearing..

Was it engine rev related or just road speed related?

OT, but.. is that VR6 badge on your Shrek *real*, Kev, or a figment of your photoshop imagination?!

The peugeots aren't really red in the indicator's section of the unit. They're pretty much clear, with very slight reddish lines on the outside to make them look red from a distance.

It's really gonna come down to the EXACT specs of light filtering done by the amber plastic, the red tint and the green tint on the bulb as to what colour eventually comes out. Maybe green bulbs will help slightly (maybe putting more powerful ones in will help anyway), and this may be enough to prevent you getting pulled over on a regular basis, but truly amber it will not be.. I'd be curious to see if someone finds a way, however, cos it gets a bit dodgy trying very hard not to use the indicators when the coppers are around...! :)

When they adjusted the tracking in the first place, they should have clamped the steering wheel in the dead-ahead position, which would have resolved this before it became an issue anyway!!

Didn't think the standard controller was that smart, actually.. In that case, I can't imagine why you would want to replace the original control box!! (Unless you wanted a dial on your dash or something!?)

I think the point of the "programmable" control unit is to apply a bit of adaptive logic to the switch-over, so it a) won't hunt between the two states if you're hovering around the 4k rpm mark and b) won't bother changing the state if you've only revved over by a small margin.

Yep, plenty of info in the search on this. You may be better off calling GPC tho, and buying a brand new Corrado handle for I think £45. Less work to fit it.. http://www.gpcvwaudi.com.

Ah, the Big Valve Head, Schrick, cams and big throttle body make up that 244 lbft :)

Shut it hayward! :-P