dr_mat

There's lots and lots of PSI in the ABS pump unit, you really don't wanna mess with it unless you've depressurised the system properly. It would be much like being hit by a pressure washer jet, so yes it could be pretty painful.

Yes, you test the voltage regulator by finding out how many volts it's outputting..! ;)

Only drawback with them is they're not that quick tbh and they're not good on fuel economy. Even the V6 was only really lukewarm, performance wise. Much more of a cruiser.

I quite like that model actually. A mate had a vast succession of these, starting with a red V6 version about four years ago. A new one every six months.. I much preferred that later (squarer) shape than the earlier (rounded) ones. And there's a reason why they kept winning rallies.. they're a much better chassis than the Corrado out-of-the-box. The steering isn't as informative, but they are more sure footed on the road and less easily upset by linked turns and undulations.

The hydraulic one doesn't leak for ten years, and makes the car quieter than the solid ones. Choice is yours.

Best oil for a VR6 is the most expensive one you can be bothered to buy, in general. Use the search for more details, there's loads of previous threads covering this.

There's plenty of adjustable steering columns for sale used. The reason no-one buys new is price: £530 + VAT... You should be able to fix it - there's a pin that drops out underneath usually just need sticking back in. You might need to weld a small plate over the end of it's channel to keep it there.

Maybe they made some more. Perhaps if enough people ask they'll make some more VR6 badges too, and door handles, and window seal strips, and heater controls, and early bonnets.. and .. and .. ??

And I'd heard they're obsolete, VW don't have any any more.

Search for "stalling vr6" - it's quite common and unfortunately has a number of potential causes, from the MAF to the ISV and everything else besides.

Basics of starting a VR6. 1) fuel pump primes 2) turn engine 3) crank sensor MUST provide a timing signal to the ECU - (it only does this while the engine is turning) 4) ECU signals fuel injectors, signals spark 5) engine fires. Sounds to me like you have number 2 working now, and you've replaced the crank sensor with no improvement, so it's likely there's nothing wrong with that. You can test the fuel pressure in the lines to make sure that's ok, but low fuel pressure wouldn't prevent you getting spark. So that really means the ECU is either plain not working (I know you've replaced it..), or it's not getting the signals it requires, or it's not getting any power at all. Did anyone ever check if the ECU is actually getting 12v or not??

Erm, which one is yours then? http://www.sniffpetrol.com/2008/06/06/a ... r-palette/ I think "Badger Arse" looks the best ...

Durrr of course I meant block. Doh! Presumably the bearings can be replaced at the same time, but it's for sure impossible to replace them without taking the chains off..

The stupid thing about this "market collapse" is the reality of the financials behind it. If you take a £17k loss on your Merc ML450 pile-o-toss you would have to drive a toyota pious for about 5 years to recoup that single loss through tax and petrol pricing. Meanwhile you're losing ~£10k on your pious and you have to replace the batteries for ~£10k aswell. So in reality you should keep your gas guzzler and just drive less..

The fans should kick in at ~92-94 degrees. If they don't you have a faulty fan control sensor.

The only other thing I can think of is the chain intermediate shaft. It goes off into the head to drive the oil pump, and they can get rattly with old age.

Sounds like the factory immobiliser. VW will want to sell you an entire replacement control module, when all you really need to do is clean up the contacts between the transponder coil (mentioned above) and the control module. See earlier threads on the VR6 immobiliser transponder.

The VR experiences a lot more understeer than the 4 cylinder models, they seem a lot better balanced. The VR has more grip at the front end too, and no more grip at the rear. Balances out (as it were), in my experience. ;)

4 wheel alignment just means they "measure" the rear alignment aswell as the front, and they attempt to line up the fronts to the thrust angle of the rears. It's mostly pointless, because 99% of cars can't have their rear alignment adjusted at all, and if the thrust angle didn't line up that probably means your chassis is bent. tracking is "toe" angle - i.e. do both wheels point in the same direction?! camber is the not-quite-vertical-ness of the wheels. They always tilt in slightly at the top to give better grip while cornering. Note that if you alter camber it will alter the tracking at the same time .. always do camber first!

echo round here ...

What watts are your bulbs, and which lamps did you wire into your uprated loom? Don't forget main beam on the Corrado is 2*60W plus 2*55W, which works out at about 19 Amps..

Apparently the 16V heads also have chains - between the two cams. The main crank-cam link is a belt on all but the VR6.

You can disable the abs system just by disconnecting one of the sensors. They're probably easier to get to than the fuse! The cable goes up the side of the front suspension turrets and there's a handy push-fit connector on each side.

Sounds to me like you should just do nothing. Keep the emails/texts you sent/received in case he ultimately decides to chase you down for not honouring your end of the deal. I don't think ebay would uphold any complaint against you in the circumstances. They are very much biased towards the buyer anyway, selling on ebay is a very risky business these days.

Sounds like the lambda to me.