G60Jet

I've not got the OEM imob, but you need to open the switch blade key housing up by pulling it apart, the top part pull away from the bottem. then you should be able to open up the bottem half that houses the electronic for the buttons and insert the chip out of your key inoto the houseing. I made my SB key about 6 months ago. Fantastic mod and the key doesn't wear holes in your pockets

oh yeah and if that is an OS engine make sure you do up the pinch bolt that hold on the Car and use some threadlock

CaiosG60 PWR yeah its a 2stroker alright, what make of engine is going in it? Like Henny says you wont need to tourque up the bolts as the engine should toqure it for you, However one recommendation, if the engine has a flywheel on the crank shaft, locate the hole in the side of the flywheel, insert an allen key to hold it firm and tighten the bolt that holds the flywheel to the crank as on some RC engines the flywheels tend to come loose when started for the first time. if its a recoil start then it may not have a fly wheel on the engine, but being a chopper it should have. I used to race model powerboat until i moved to spain, i held the junior record for the fastest 7.5CC mono hull at 45mph with my first boat, then my last boat hit about 80 on an unoficial timing session. The Oil BTW is in the fuel already. Depending on the engine make depends on the type of fuel. I think Dynaglo is the castor based one and duraglow is EDL if i remeber correctly. it will need running in being an ABC engine, they dont have rings and are a taypered pistion and liner set. make sure it runs on a high oil, rich mix for the first hour of engine running time.

I've seen that before without the sound, you could so tell what she was saying anyway!!!

there must be a ground for the ECU control box and live too RPM you should be able to top off the coil (AC current) my clifford taps the coil wire for the RPM monitor (you could also use the rev counter pulse i would think) Speed wire= speedo is electric so there is a wire to tap there too injector pulse dont know on that one

Well Venom only seem to sell part direct from the distriutor. Everytime i've order something from them, the bit has come from the distributor direct and the credit card bill has come from venom. so i guess if you can find out who makes them the you could go down that route

its a valve that vents to stabilise the idle from what i understand. you normally fit a check valve if the ISV is leaking under boost. the check valve closes and presvents boost lose where the isv leaks air back into the boost return pipe. my check valve is just a ball bearing in a metal tube. in theory if the ISV leaks is pushed the bearing against the end cap of the tube sealing it thus stoping the boost leak. then as the boost come off the bearing is allowed to move away from the end cap allowing the ISV to do its job The only reason i have one i cos i thought my ISV was leaking

I got two P6000's for €120 the pair fantastic tyres.

i going to buy some new infinity Kappa 6*9's for my parcel self after Xmas, i blew one of my phoenix golds :lol:

Of course they do!! They may not add 'x' amount to a cars selling price. A dealer (or auction house, once you and Roddy make your minds up ;) ), will charge more for a car with aircon, leather, electric recarro's etc etc than they would for the same car without the options. You're not telling me that if a dealer had two identical cars apart from one having every option available and the other one having none, they would sell them both for the same price?? Course not, so price goes up, average price goes up and therefore book value goes up. As the average covers all the cars sold, it is the middle ground for that model's value - if a car comes along with every extra under the sun, it is in theory better than average and so worth more than the book price. Like i said the Book price is not effected buy extras, unless the book has a specific varent that had standard extras like a Pug 206 and a pug 206 ps2 special edition for example. the dealer will adjust the book price to suit the cars toys, the older the car the less the cars value is effected by extras. the book price remains the same. like i said the book price is an averaged figure. which the dealer is ment to adjust when buying and selling. in most car price guides you will find three prices New price Trade price at which the dealer buys at and the Retail or forcourt price, this is the price you would expect to pay for a given car.

Unless your ISV is leaking they make little difference, i've got one!!

vr6storm, no mate its from the car dealers, My G/F's dad is a car dealer here in spain, and was a major car dealer in the UK before moving here. thats how it works according to him. both in spain and the UK

The Book Values in the Glasses guide and such like relate to models and some varients such as the storm, Aircon and other extras dont effect the book price. the book price is made via dealers returning data on there car sales figures for each make and model, then an average price is marked out. This is why you may see brand new cars listed in a guide and only a NEW price shown with no trade in or retail price shown. the book price is then altered to reflect the state of the car, Aircon will make the car more desirable, but will infact not add much to the buying price for a dealer, but will increase the selling price as you would expect. at the end of the day though the car is only worth what someone is willing to pay.

Does anyone know the way the corrado wiring is set up so the car cannot be locked with the engine running. Both myself and Ant have Clifford intellistart and when leaving the car running and arming the car it doesn't lock. Anyone know why? Nigel B

I saw a brand new MK5 golf on the road today, i think we've got it earlier than her in europe thant you lot in the uk. what a mess, looks like a Seat/Alfa/VW blend. Nasty okay i only saw the rear of it before i turned into the car park but hey.

BTW guys the Golf never came in a 2dr or a 4dr, only 3dr and 5dr, the 2dr and 4dr varients where called vento's or jetta's :lol: :wink:

unless you have a leaky ISV dont bother

It wont work M8, there is a filter in the lamp :( The CC of Canada has a guide on how to remove it/change the colour. I tried it on my old ones. You would have to have large balls to try that one, i can tell ya!!!! :shock: Take one screen driver and break the orange filter allowing it to come out in pices through the bulb hole. insert chrome style bulbs such as silvervision job done :wink:

just go round looking at all the local kids mountain bikes!!

sorry nige but the u bend is on all golf g60's / rallyes with out aircon.. the aircon models have the short dumpy outlet.. thats what i ment to type lol had the flu....... well i have a 50-50 chance lol

the u-bend piece is off a rallyee with aircon

Marry Xmas to you too

http://classic2.alfisti.net/english/ser ... ndaten.htm according to this site you should be running a 205/35/17 to match up the rolling radius of the original tyre/wheel combo

if the diameter is larger on the 17wheel/tyre then its got the wrong tyre size on it as the rolling radius should be the same. which was my whole point and as dr_mat says the car becomes illegal cos the speedo underreads. if a wheel tyre combo are done correctly then the rolling radius of the tyre will be more or less the same. there is a website that tells you the size tyre you need on a given rim to match the rolling radius of the original rim and tyre combo. its easier said the done though as the size tyre you need isn't asways available.

peronally i would only go 35-40 lower, you shouldn't go below 50ish as the drive shafts become near horizontal and suspection movment upwards is asking for trouble at that point, the standard bushes and shocks etc where never design to take the load (the spring is stiffer so the shock takes more of a bashing and so do the dushes) pluse the shock has less travel at that kind of drop. if your going down at 50+mm then fully adjustable coilovers are the best be IMHO as for your C looking like a 4x4 put the old tyres and wheel infront of the ones on the C now and the tyre should be the same outside diameter as the new ones, just the wheel in the middle is bigger and the tyre on the 17's should have a lower profile. (infact the old tyre wheel combo should site higher as the old wheel isn't carrying the weight of the C