olly elworthy

maybe the g60 one will go on if i cut off the nut on the bottom thats used to install it and take it off as i use a snap on metal strap wrench for that anyway,,,

you will need digifant 1 which runs from manifold pressure as opposed to airflow for forced indution purpouses

cheers thats a good idea, i trust the 1.8T filter is up to the job for the supercharger,,

you need to buy a smaller belt also when fitting a smaller pulley,, darren can help you with one of these

another way to double check once all other checks have been done is that on cyl number one at tdc the inlet and exhaust cam lobes should be symettrically facing each other with the points of the cam lobes in line with the inner studs on the bearing cam bearing caps, need a pic to explain really, but i dont have one to hand,,

i have a small 3/8 drive teng torque wrench that goes from 5-25 NM it is perfect for doing cam bearing caps and the like,, for the sake of £40 it was well worth it,,

thanks, may think of deleting it then, had one fail in a mk2 once, filled up my headertank with oil, not nice!! on a sideline,,,,, when i was replacing the metal waterpipe around the block on my car the other day (pain of a job on a g60 compared to a normal gti motor) i had to take out the drivers side headlight to get in there, also had to take out the oil filter to facilitate the installation of the new pipe and found out that it is a hell of allot easier to change the oil filter by going in through the headlight and drawing it out through there rather than fiddling it out from underneath the car, for the sake of three screws to remove the headlight it makes the oil filter change a hell of allot easier on a g60 :wink:

yeap will be the same. although the passat manual will refer to a 9A engine, also pay attention to the cap tightening order as you pull the cams down on just two caps initially, go steady too, hav known people to snap a cam bearing cap rendering their head useless,,,

excellent, thanks, also are you running the oil to water cooler aswell or have you deleted that one, IMO its a good idea as helps the engine oil to warm up quickly, any views on this?

no worries, :wink:

both dots horizontally facing each other in line with the top of the head, sometimes takes a couple attempts to get right as when you torque the cam bearing caps down the cams will rotate a little,

sounds intersting any pics? :?:

car is my corrado g60, running 68mm pulley and sns chip, stock intercooler and rad, going to install an oil cooler before nurburgring as seen a few scary oil temps when driving hard, going for a mocal one and was thinking of the 235mm X 10 row one, will this be sufficient? or am i better off paying a little extra and going for a 13 row one? :?: thanks in advance,,,,,,, :D

post the pic up again with numbers next to each hose and i`ll list it out for ya,, nice hoses!! where did you get those? good price?

they comeage with the rodages ends attachedage from gsfage

continental sport contacts or pirelli p zeros,, excellent tyres :-)

i would guess rhd as they have the pipes going accross the bulkhead,,, as the lhd ones have a more integral unit with the servo and master cyl i think

i piped mine into an airline fitting i welded into the boost return blank off plate that i made as i didnt want a catch tank,,

made mine up last weekend, the sound of the boost dumping is awesome,,, seems to be a bit more lively too,,,

seems about right to me,,

any pics of the cooler in situ?

replace the hose ensuring it is exactly the same internal diameter and exactly 1m long and you will be back in buisness so to speak, the symptoms your describing sound exactly like what happened to mine when i had a hole in the same line.

its not just about peak power though, with a FMIC the car will be allot more responsive and quicker throughout the rev range, :D please correct me if i am wrong,,, :roll:

synta silver gets my thumbs up :thumbleft:

you need a new autosumpgrille :lol: