olly elworthy
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Content Count
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Joined
Everything posted by olly elworthy
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what type of cone filter? foam ones arent the best, if you must have one make sure its a cotton gauze one as these provide filtration levels similar to that of a paper pleated filter panel, also a thing to watch with vr`s is the oil used on the performance filters can mess around with the MAF,,
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http://www.raldes.co.uk :thumbleft:
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tape measure will tell ya,,
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not sure on the valver pump but a vr6 uses 1 in tank pump that if i remember correctly can push upto 4 bar,
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how to change charger timing belt and rsr outlet
olly elworthy replied to billinjah's topic in Engine Bay
you can get the box out whole, :D use a wobble extension bar to undo the 13mm bolt that holds the silencer box on, then when its loose, take off the boost return pipe charger end and take off the top rad cover so you can pull up the top radiatior hose a little and pull up the boost return pipe a little. and then you should be able to extract the silencer box in one piece,, hope that makes sense,,, :roll: -
i`ll take a couple pics of mine that i fab`ed up mine is earthed to the pipe as its all metal,,
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im not so sure i think if your gonna spend the money then go the hole hog and go for the big valves, that way you will never be limited by the head,,
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cheers, :D got bbs rc`s on her now, must update my pics,,
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clicky here
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if i remember right steve from pitstop does not rate the FSE adjustable FPR`s in boost applications at all, im sure he`ll be along here shortly to comment about it,
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if you have standalone you can keep the fuel pressure constant at a decent value for your chosen injectors and do all the fueling adjustment in the mapping, you just need to select your injectors carefully, so dont see why you would need an adjustable fpr,
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my next mod is to be a 35mm exhaust & 40mm inlet valve head and ill be after similar figures, you can see how poor the stock head flows by the way the boost goes from 12 psi straight up to 15psi at 5100 rpm, the air cannot physically get in the head, a well flowing head will make the boost work for you,
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pretty obvious that this would happen you should always loosen off the serpentine belt tension and the power steering pump tension before removing the bolt, :cuckoo:
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i welded a secondary bung in on my rrado and i use a home made exhaust probe, clamp for other cars,, but yeap you could set it at idle from the exhaust and then check in the stock location for some full throttle runs,
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yeap i have seen him dousing the odd radiator and intercooler with his garden sprayer a few times,, :wink:
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URGENT - Metal Clips for CO Pot sensor on G60 ?
olly elworthy replied to BigTartanJudge's topic in Engine Bay
hmm maybe not so good then, :roll: -
for those of you re-using abs cages why not apply some red loc tite to them before tapping them back into place?
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URGENT - Metal Clips for CO Pot sensor on G60 ?
olly elworthy replied to BigTartanJudge's topic in Engine Bay
sensor into the boost pipe clip can be obtained from gsf as it is the same as the clips that hold the temperature sensors into the plastic flange on the head,, -
i have an lm1 wideband and`ll be posting up some air fuel plots for my car after the weekend, was going to first set the mixture with the co pot to 14.8:1 at idle then take it out for some full power runs and see what the fuelling looks like under load,
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he ran it 4wd with all the audi running gear, major hacking about to the car though,,,
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s2 engine is a 5 cyl unit mounted the other way, to a golf or corrado unit how do you expect to get it to mount to the synchro gearbox?
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darren at g werks can get them for you
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how is the ihi beast going?
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digifant 2 is right for a normal 8v gti motor but for a g60 you will need the g60 management/ecu which is digifant 1 or run off of an aftermarkey system such as dta or something, as your airflow meter will not work with the g60 set up,,,