Fanjita
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looks like GSF stock sachs, or could try euro car parts mate.
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tigerfish, I have an OBD ii USB cable to run vagcom from, you just have to bear in mind that you'll need to check under the gearstick surround to see what plug you'll need. It's likely you'll need the 2+2 adaptor which will then plug in to the OBD-II style plug. I am not sure if this will work with the all in ones but it definitely works with my copy of Vagcom on the laptop. The adaptor can be found on ebay. HTH
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newbridge, I did this last year, here's what I did: Use the jack (get the car on stands if it's your only jack!) and shove a bit of wood between the jack and the lowest part of the sump. I then jacked it up so the wood was wedged firmly (although this wont matter as the engine cant fall through). then remove the rear engine mount bolt completely, and loosen the front engine mount nut. You can then jack the sump up and with enough slackening of the bolts, the sump should easily clear allowing a socket and the nut to slide out. HTH, James
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few more questions; What becomes of the OBD-I connector under the gear stick surround? Replace with OBD-II? Is the ABS controll within the VR6 ECU or it's own unit? Also how would I access the diagnostic for it if the OBD-I connector is replaced?
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I am talking to Chris about it yes, but I really think its going to chomp into my budget too much, I'm chatting to him about this at the moment so will see! Otherwise i was just going to get a decent nick standard box (one going for £100 with 75k).
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Fish, I have to ask, I was hoping to have all the important bits in the same place, and from what I can see, Chris' pictures look to indicate that the intake manifold is angled right (when looking front to back), which would require the filter to be somewhere overhead the gearbox?? How did you manage to get your airbox on the left? Continental intake mani or something?
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I'll be doing this all myself yes! It's a bit daunting but everything that's needed fixing on my car I've fixed, I've also removed the head before and a few other mammoth tasks. I think I can handle it, engine out, engine in, few modifications, rewire, recode, bam! I'll be quite happy with the standard output (237-247 hp isnt it?). As far as I know as it really fits just like the original, so one can assume that it would feel like the original only quieter, more torquey and may be slightly twitchy on the DBW pedal (from what ive heard).
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Yeah thats exactly it Gaz, no exchange units, so they offered to refurb mine with a turnaround of 3 weeks for the quoted price.
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somersetdub; I have been playing with exactly those two options over the last week. I have some figures to maybe help you. I received some quotes from certain companies all turned up to be around the same price. VR6 Rebuilds (with engine removed by me and handed over): Stealth £2450 +VAT VEGE £2500 + VAT - normally have engines on the shelf but no ABV at the moment, would rebuild own and send out Local Rebuilder £2500 + VAT all with a 12 month warranty, amazing how consistent the prices were! I did look into getting the engine stripped myself, but a lot of the cost above was parts, getting it machined was something I would have to send off for. First of all I struggled massively finding a machinist to quote me on skimming the engine parts. It really was looking like a hell of a lot of work to attempt this cheap, with the possiblility that it would still cost a lot anyway. Then after this information, I saw the R32 + all required equipment for sale on the forums (yes it was me, i've paid the deposit, sorry!). It really was a no brainer for me. I can't see it costing more than £2500 + VAT to get the R32 in and working, so I'm going that route. Plus the added bonus of having 50 extra hp from the start is just too tempting. I did question Vince when looking into the hp boost option (as it makes sense when the block is in bits to chuck in a few goodies), and just to scrape 220 hp if you're lucky, would cost around £1500 (cams, bigger valves and a polish). I hope all my research has helped you come to a decision, and I am sorry for jumping at the R32 on the classifieds! Picking it up sunday, wish me luck!
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i have a few weeks to play with, only getting the engine next sunday... What sort of mileage/price?
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thanks bill ill send him a message!
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Thanks for the advice guys, I've decided to go for it now, deposit paid on the R32 lump :). One other question, with the fact it's the mk5 engine running on mk4 electricals and ancillaries, can i expect the 237 bhp of the mk4 or the 247 the mk5 has? Cheers!
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guys, thanks a lot for the help, after much pondering i've decided to jump on the r32 transplant bandwagon. sourcing parts for this now, looking to replace tired gearbox to put on the r32, check my other wanted thread if you have any ideas!
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Just looking for a low mileage ( Need it to be as good as possible really, all considered though! Cheers.
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Thanks mate! It really is a fantastic write up, thanks a lot for that quicky. You are from Peterboro I have just noticed, not far, so I could always drop in on you with any doubts! :thumbleft: lol There was quite a few things I wanted to check but only a few I can remember now. I own a 1993 VR6 Does the MFA function at all after this? I notice you mention oil temp sensor so I guess that will function, but what about the MPG? I'm still not too sure about modifications required, in your write up you say front engine mount needs modifying if using original VR6 oil cooler, but then other people's post says the rear mount also needs trimming? The engine in question is a Mk5 R32 lump but the Mk4 parts are present on it. Do i need a new fuel pump? Aftermarket FPR? Does the original ignition require modifying for immobiliser? Sorry for all these I just need to know what I'm getting myself into!
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hi all, I was hoping someone experienced in an r32 conversion would be up for having a chat with me. I am very capable of doing this I just wanted to know some additional information than what I've been managed to find, the guide in the knowledgebase is fantastic though! So yeah anyone able to chat on phone just about this mammoth task with me? PM me number please! Many thanks, James
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Norman is this still available? May be interested, would like to chat.
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Hi Rob, Thanks for your message, I will keep these in mind! Any other folks with maybe a rebuilt 2.9?
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With various signs the current engine is close to giving up on me, its about time I started to look for a replacement. Ideally want one that can slot straight in and has been recon'd or low mileage. Have shown interest in the VEGE currently on the classifieds but as I have 4th dibs I'm thinking this'll be very unlikely. So any ideas guys? Cannot contemplate spending 2500 odd for a reconditioned engine, nor similar to have mine rebuilt. I can rebuild an engine over time myself, so would consider taking a tired one from someone else and rebuilding that. Ideally one that doesn't need work though! James
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Zak, Could you sort me out with a full (is that 3 relay) setup? Ideally with the OEM connectors but over the last few pages it would appear you cannot get them any more? Thanks, James
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Hi guys, I have actually managed to fix my indicators. I bought a relay from ECP for £8 and the spade terminals look to be the same size, although the footprint of the relay is slightly wider. It seems to be working all the time now! Very happy with an easy fix, was surprised that just swapping the relay has fixed what i thought was a serious contact problem within the actual fusebox. I'm still baffled with the trim covering it though, mine doesn't seem to resemble the one pictured! the fusebox cover seems to slot into 2 tabs in the trim underneath, and has 2 large prongs on it to do so. I will get some pics, if there is another type of trim (maybe newer?) that doesnt have these prongs it might prevent unnecessary pressure on the relay in the future.
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Thanks Port, the fusebox is exactly the same, it's the trim I'm more concerned about. I'll get some pics shortly so you can all see what I mean.
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Hi mate, Not a clue on that part, not seen it in my life! In fact, I cant even see the brackets that secure my fusebox cover in place in that pic!? They're two lugs protruding out of the back of the cover (number 20 in that pic) which locate into two holes in the trim underneath (looks like its labelled 1?). It is these two holes that one fouls the relay on....Why can't i see these two plastic loops in that pic!?
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Folks, Appear to have narrowed my problem. I'd love it if you all had a look at my thread and request! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?60690-Need-help-with-others-pics-of-their-fusebox-and-surrounding-trim-please!&p=769433#post769433 thanks