Fanjita

Legend, thanks a lot :salute:

Hi, I have just recently purchased a set of 288mm brakes for the front, one of them is missing the dust cap that sits on the end of the hard rubber sleeve that houses the slider. Without a car reg number or chassis number I doubt my local VW will look up the part for me. Would anyone with ETKA be able to find this for me? I have searched and searched as I thought there was a thread with this information in but now can't find it. Not sure if I can just buy the dust caps or if i have to buy the rubber sleeve also. Cheers, Jim

Unbelievable! I am in the middle of doing this job and what KIP has described is exactly the process i am going through! The irwins are amazing, just amazing, i struggled with a carrier bolt almost a whole day, then picked up these beauties and the bolt just undid itself with fear. I have picked up wheel bearings from another source though, a website called http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk do the whole refurb kit for £40, not sure on the bearing quality but I know they're made in belgium :confused4:

Looks like I've missed a lot! Thanks for the comments guys :clap: Well that's not good news then, gearbox off to shut it up! I think I might leave it for a while, can't quite justify taking the gearbox off at the moment. I think I have a new clutch too, as it had an engine replacement about 2 years ago. Thanks again for shedding light on this though :salute:

Hi all, I've had this squeak for as long as I can remember, it does it all the time it's in gear or not with the clutch engaged. As soon as i depress the clutch pedal to disengage it, the squeak goes away. It's not a continuous squeak just on and off a few times a second, but it's enough to be a bit annoying. I read in a members thread recently that a minor adjustment fixed a thrust bearing noise, any ideas what this adjustment could be and if it would fix this noise? Thanks

With regards to the vacuum gauge, can you fit one to a VR6? Does it require a new sensor or can you tap into an existing one?

height looks perfect, do they rub at all? Arches still got liners or are they rolled, and whats the ride like? Mine has original arches but the ride is so solid, I'd like to soften it up eventually.

Bit OT, Loving the illuminated gearknobs on both your cars, how do you go about doing that then?

Thanks mate, I'm not actually sure where 36 is, we have 37 and 33 either side of us. Any chance you could tell the courier it's 35? It's a new build and a bit frustrating that it doesn't exist, we moved across from 35A and even though that house has been there for 30 years now it's still not on the database, so we're used to it. 35A would be ideal if that exists if not 33 or 37, if you can't tell the courier there is a 35! Cheers

Mine is a 1993 on a K. It has had a replacement engine at some point in it's life, but it is a coilpack model. Everything as far as I can make out is late (interior, lights etc) but strangely it appears that the front bumper is early? (lines curving up at the back of the front bumper just before the arch) It drives beautifully, has a few things needing doing at the moment (wishbones, rear beam bushes), but I'd say it is no different to my late VR6 previously owned. The only thing i was specific about was a coilpack model, I didn't want a distributored VR6 at all. Jim

A friend of mine was considering one, the 3.0 sounds an absolute beast with the right exhaust. The only thing I heard (from one person so it may be b****x) was that the handling wasn't that great? Looks good, sounds good and the interior is nice too, just remember the reliability issues with an Alfa but otherwise a nice little car. Have a look at this:

I know someone who's paying £2500 for his storm :shock:

corrados can be both Left and right hand drive can't they? :confused4: So it's not just me confused by that last statement then!

:confused4: :confused4: You want to import a LHD supra from the UK? I don't think there will be many....

Spoiler can be manually extended under the rear panel of the boot lid. Remove the panel and you will see a handle right in the middle of the assembly under there.

Great thanks, Do you think that burning oil on the overrun (not visible only a whiff) could also be from the head rather than the block? I have checked the spark plugs and they are all the same blackish colour no sign of oil burn.

Hi all, I just thought I'd link here so I can get some engine gurus out there to help me with mine. I have just whipped up a quick video of it in my car thread here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=78924&p=1061378#p1061378 Cheers

Hi guys, Could do with a bit of help here, I have attached a video of the engine idling and ~2000 RPM. It is getting rather loud now, hopefully you can tell from the video how loud the rattling is. At around 2000 rpm it gets slightly louder, enough to hear bouncing off the walls as we go along. Just wondering if anyone had any idea what could be causing the rattling before I start taking it to bits. On the overrun there isn't visible smoke, but definitely a smell of burnt oil when I slow down to a halt. I also have a whirring type noise on the accessory belt, hard to tell what it could be though (alternator, pas pump, water pump or tensioner?). I hope someone can help diagnosing my problem, I was thinking of giving the engine a small overhaul over the summer (head, chains, maybe water & oil pumps?). I will probably get it compression tested first to make sure I'm not wasting my time on a badly worn block. Anyway, all help welcome! Jim http://www.flickr.com/photos/34250724@N02/4551679748/

Hi mate, I had a similar problem, it wasn't as 60 though it was significantly faster (on a private road)... Got to a certain speed and the ABS light came on and stayed on, but once I got to a speed where I could turn everything off, the light extinguished. Never had a problem with the ABS and I haven't fixed anything on it but it hasn't happened since, mainly as I drive at the speed limit 8)

Thanks a lot :clap: They are unfortunately tarnished quite badly now through age, so I've been looking at my options. Been toying with plenty of other types but I really like the way these look, I was just put off when they quoted me £450 to refurb :cuckoo: I will approach some other places soon though so hopefully get it done for less. I'm hoping it's not the chains but it's really pointing towards them based on what I've read, I will see if anyone can help me from a video or such like.

Well I've had some fun recently! A small coolant leak turned into a serious puddle maker over the course of a few days, so we had to take a look. I knew the source of it, the elbow at the top of the radiator. We suspected the seal had gone and was just in need of re seating and securing down. Elbow off we found this: Not the best thing to be confronted with, and we could only try to patch it or replace the whole rad. After a few quotes we decided the best option was to just replace the rad so it might not happen again. Went a bit crazy with hammerite and waxoyl cans, after I found the usual coating of rust along the bottom. I used black hammerite on the beam underneath the radiator, as well as the fan assembly and mounting brackets. No pics of that unfortunately but it looks a lot better now. Just got a lingering issue with the engine rattle, seems to be getting louder, I might need some help diagnosing what could be the cause of it though, videos to follow.

It sounds like it mate, I can't quite remember the symptoms when it happened to me though. Makes sense that the Ignition position before the starter position was fried though, as I think that's where the constant 12v comes from. So basically what's happening now is the feed to the starter motor is fine, but all the ignition and fuelling is not active due to the lack of supply from the ignition position. Once again I'm no expert so if someone thinks I may be wrong please speak up.

It might help if i stated why its a sod :lol: The switch is held in by a solitary screw, the said screw sits on the inside of the switch between it and the steering column. With your back in the drivers footwell and looking up, you can coax a tiny watchmakers screwdriver in there, but if it's done up too tight, you probably wont have enough leverage . Like I said though, 2 out of the 3 I've done have been fine, so heres to hoping.

Well I hate to be the one to say it, but some can be absolute sods :bad-words: to get in... That being said I've done 3 now and only one was convincing me to burn the car in frustration. The switch comes into contact with the very end of your key in the barrel, so it sits right behind it. Just get the trim off, 3 screws I believe, and you can't miss it, white jobber with a large connector going into it.

Just looking at your description (no power to stereo ) it is suggesting the ignition switch was frazzled. Not sure if you did accidentally short the 12v constant, although a faulty stereo could do that too no doubt.