boost monkey

That's cool, I think modding the hub would be a mission anyways :D btw i'm having this weekend off as it's my birthday :bday: I won't be at Stealth tomorrow but if someone could mope about for me that would be great :lol:

Ok, so we're all agreed that modding the hub so that it reduces wheel arch clearance is a false economy as it doesn't adjust the suspension geometry?

no probs. IIRC the spanner is made by LASER. I had a flick through my thread looking for you (around the page 30 mark) but ended up getting all sentimental so I stopped :(

what he said + extension cable for outside :D

Damn it I will miss this car :cry:

Hey fella, I've rebuilt a pas rack before in the Plum thread, not sure if I gave lots of info though. Basically yeah you split the outer with a splitter form the hub. Then remove the rubber bellows, and you should see a hex section cut into the inner end of the bar. This is how you do/undo the bar from the rack. From memory it's something large like 38mm. I remember you could get a spanner off the shelf in Halfords that was the right size, but it's for some other job entirely :D still, it works. IIRC you should use threadlock when you tighten the inner end of the bar into the rack (it's just a female threaded section inside the rack itself so no inner nut to worry about :-) hope this helps, may be more details on the Plum thread. Might be worth searching through it. Probs be back in 2008/9 time.

Alright fella, I've got an early 16v box you can have if you like. Let me know if it's any good. The turret's in good nick. Cheers, Jon. p.s. you're welcome to come and have a nosey at the other parts too if you like :D

Ok, so it looks like frankenstein's hub, but bear with me (attached). I haven't bothered offsetting the TRE and LBJ mounts because I have a concern - won't the shock mount on the hub give clearance issues with the shafts in full droop? That's one problem with modding stuff in CAD - you really need to have the whole system of bits mocked up to check for clearance/interference! Anyways this is a simple 40mm drop built into the hub. Happy to hear all thoughts, good and bad :D @quicky1980, is this what you were thinking of Sam? Perhaps something less horrific?! :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I'm guessing it's the length. Just a shot in the dark though.

Oh I'm sure someone made one on here.

Alex CrumbleBelly, I hardly consider half a G60 stuck somewhere in the tundra of the himalayan highlands "a win" over the subtle beauty and iconic grace of an early burgundy past its prime.

I personally think a custom dry sump setup would be better... :lol:

@davidwort, thanks matey. I think I was quite optimistic with restoring a C on a student loan, and now i've graduated its even busier! :lol: I'm sure I will be back in a Corrado. I've kinda fallen for the DBP colour though so I'll have my eye out for another one of those. Although I'd settle for one of the other dark pearls :D Thanks, it's good to be able to document the stuff you've been doing. In fact I've had to flick back through this post to remind myself of how far I got with it all sometimes! :lol: @Jim, yeah it's a shame. I did have high hopes, unfortunately the finances and space didn't match! But I will be back in one for sure. As for the bumper, I will check for you. I have never had it off the car so I can't say what the actual bracket is like. As the car is being stripped I'm happy to remove though and take some pics. Would you be able to collect?

Cheers fella! I can't claim to be a render aficionado but that one did come out well! I'm much better at 3D than 2D. If I can visualise a problem I can help much more than if someone showed me a problem or told me about it! :lol: Anyways, I think it's about time to get cracking with dropping mount points and all that. Referring back to Kips points, the centre line through the two upper shock mounts on the hub is also the axis of the shock absorber. Therefore, to mod the hub to reduce wheel to arch gap we can move these mounts closer to the centre of the hub by XX mm (measured vertically, so obviously a little bit of trig involved measuring along the centreline!). This would also involve spacing down the LBJ and TRE pickup points for the wishbone and steering rack respectively - I see no need to modify the brake carrier mounting location here. I will try to mock this up visually for you guys this lunch time. Of course it won't be accurate yet as I haven't confirmed my new hub is accurate etc etc etc but it will give us all an idea of what it could look like and we can discuss this further :D

tbh, i've spoken to the mrs and I'm going to let the C go. It's our first year of marriage and it's not fair on her to spend more time with the car than I do with her indoors. I'm not sure about breaking it and posting parts, so I may end up selling as spares or repairs for some criminally low fee! Otherwise, if people are willing to come to Oxford then I'll be happy to give decent rates, make a pot of tea and even supply twixes at no charge :D Actually I can probs send a fair bit of it, esp the new items I haven't fitted yet. It has been a lot of fun owning it. I know I will be back, the Mk2 golf is great but it isn't as capable as the Corrado. I will keep visiting the forum of course, and helping out where I can with CAD and advice (hmm, CADvice... :lol:) and I might even get to a meet soon. Last one was Volksfest 2008! Shared a tent with dukest. Good times :D

Yeah, there's a lot to think about. Realistically I bought it in Feb 08, drove it until about September 08 and then the water pump sodded off and it's been off the road ever since - so over 3 years now.

You filthy slags :norty: If you like the hub, you may get a semi for the new LBJ especially as i did it in chrome (see attached - new server needs filling up!) Also see attached the new current assembly, and for sake of completeness the added spindle! :D Better do some real work now...!

@CazzaVR, I think this is the comprehensive list of getting back to standard unmodified condition. You're right, it's an enormous list! I'm sure once I think about it I can pick and choose what to do and what to leave. Yes, I am still weighing up breaking it to be honest or at least selling as a whole if someone feels brave! @tony_ack, I feel happy cos it's such a nice car and also sad that the last time it was driven was almost 3.5 years ago. It's kind of bitter sweet. It is a bit of a mongrel build to be honest, and as mentioned I'd want to rewire the enginebay anyways so not really much stopping me from changing the engine! :? @steve, I need an engine first matey :/ The block that's in there is the one from when the clutched water pump pulley let go just outside of Winchester years ago. So I'm calling the block a write-off and not sure about the head - probs check it for warpage. They're both out of the car now, so the engine bay is empty to finish hard brake lines etc but it's just finding the time. Realistically I probs won't find the time for another few months, or years, so perhaps it would make more sense to let it go to someone who is better equipped for the job. ---------- Post added at 08:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 AM ---------- Rough Prices: Engine - £300, Tyres - £200, Brakes - £200, PAS - £50, New Wiring - £100 perhaps, Welding / Bodywork - £200 perhaps. So just for those bits we're looking at £1000. Hmm.

Fair points Sam. Let's get a good base finished first then we can play with it. I knocked up the rest of it yesterday: Granted, it does look a bit funny, it's hard to replicate cast features in CAD as the geometry isn't "clean". Surfaces are bumpy and features tend to merge into each other with webs etc. Once I receive the hub from banan0r, I'll give it a once over with the verniers and just check it all works out. This hub is just taking the important parts of the original hub model and converting into solid so that holes / distances can be measured more easily. I'm sure it will look much better than this once we have finished. With regards to dropping down the shocker mount along the same axis, that will be easy to play with now we have new geometry that can be manipulated. I had a few thoughts though (shock!): Dropping the shock mount down will mean dropping the LBJ and track rod points down also so that the wishbones and rack are still running at decent angles. No modification can be done (that I can see) to drop the driveshaft down as this obviously runs through the centre of the hub. However, these obviously have joints which allow running at different angles, so this is a minor problem. Also, you don't often hear about people destroying shafts just because they've lowered their car! So I'm happy to say that this can at least be mocked up. I still don't know the kingpin angle of the Corrado - with this info I can just put in some construction lines at XXX degrees to vertical and this can be the KPI line. Then mod the shock mount down this line (imitating lowered suspension / less wheel to arch clearance) and see what we think. I'm sure I could mock up some very rudimentary other suspension parts so that we can measure how the scrub changes and maybe even do some paper calcs :-o ---------- Post added at 08:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:23 AM ---------- I think i've missed off the upper stone guard mount hole - by the upper caliper carrier mount? I'll add it in later. Also geometry looks quite angular and out of proportion but it's just an indication really. Once I confirm it's all correct i'll tidy it up and make it all pretty :awesome: Extra Edit, Director's Cut: Pics attached for Kev.

Mine probs is the baby tank yeah being an early. I just thought that the tank would sit a lot higher under the floor - looks like it hangs down to almost the same level as the bottom edge of the rear bumper. I just thought there might be extra room there for fun things. :D I wonder how much depth difference there is between the two tanks.

Hopefully by the time the new model is finished it won't be too long until I have a real hub in my possession, then I can check the hole diameters and positions point to point against the model to ensure it is realistic. Could we divulge between us a list of other possible hub "options" (offset, 4-pot brackets, etc) as they shouldn't be too hard to implement. Normally the companies have the 2D schematics of their calipers just up on the website, so it's easy to get basic dims of the calipers and rough location of where they would sit. For example, here's a caliper and pad from a wilwood 6-pot I mocked up before: Mocking up a bracket of where the caliper should sit is then just a function of distances and locations between caliper and hub - you can suspend the two in mid air and then pretty much just fill the space inbetween with useful joiny bits :D Ah, the beauty of CAD. For the offset, I'm not sure - is this just pushing the wheel out further, so perhaps making the spindle wider or having a thicker flange? I guess we gotta be careful not to increase the weight too much else they might eat bearings. Just initial thoughts. I don't really understand the whole ET thing, so I'll leave that to someone else to cover/explain!

I hope not! At least the prototypes can be done here. I don't think we have the quantity (1000+ units from my experience at work) to get China to touch this. Plus the delivery time would be weeks and weeks as they plod on over in a boat, and then if they're wrong there'd be weeks and weeks before they got back to them.

Perfect Fay, thanks! God, the tank is quite low isn't it! :-o

they're also helpful, thanks! I need to see how much space there is between bottom of tank and bottom of rear bumper, so a pic of the rear of a shell without the bumper on would be perfecto.