boost monkey

Ah yeah, VR ones are different. Ignore me.

There are tons of cross-members on ebay. Most of the mk2 golf ones I have found fit. One went for £5 2 days ago and it was near-mint. Gutted I missed it.

Sounds awesome! No sneaky pics from your phone then? :lol:

Awesome video, hope he knows what he's doing though plus I didn't see any valves go in... :scratch: I hope those crank bearings with the integrated thrust washers are stronger on his engine than ours, ours are sh

yeah, support the door when you undo the main hinge at the A-pillar else the hinge will buckle. This is not good, you will not high-five should this happen unless you're playing the "Hingy Breaky" boardgame at the time in which case have 5 points!

we need fully dimensioned AutoCAD drawings Stu, what's the matter with you! :nono: :lol: :salute:

Cheesewire, the police left a message for you. They still haven't found your pair and are beginning to give up hope... :lol: back on topic, does anyone reckon these things will pump waxoyl out effectively or not?

£300 would be a good price for a quick sale imho, but if you left it on ebay it may go for more, you know what bidding wars are like!

Yeah the rack doesn't leak, plus you need specialist tools to replace the actual rack inners and this rack has only done 70k so it'll be fine. The arms do have a hex cross section half-way down their length, picture is quite poor due to being from a Nokia and not a Nikon! Yeah, forgot to include the clips in the pic, and will remember about the manual prime when I do it, cheers! Also forgot to include a picture of the funny little whiteclip on the back of the bracket built into the rack (where the rod change bit would bolt to on a mk2 setup). Not sure what it does but bought a new one anyways!

So, it's been a while since I updated this, here is how the PAS rack stands as of earlier today: rack.JPG[/attachment:2re7p7f1] Top to bottom and left to right: Bar between rubber gaitors, Rack with both external pipes connected, track rod with end - NS, track rod with end - OS, Gaitor OS, Gaitor NS, Nuts to attach rack to subframe, Bolts to attach rack to subframe, Rubber bush, Rubber bush mount, Box with top rubber seal on (fits onto ribber U/J cover?) Tube of Steering rack grease for lubing up the rack arms with. Will be painting the rack tomorrow, hopefully rebuilding it on Sunday. Need to threadlock the tie rods onto the rack and tighten to spec, remove rod ends and slip gaitors on the rods, then re-attach the rod ends after copper greasing them. Attach rubber bush and top rubber seal, and then leave to stand until subframe is ready, Gas Mark 4 :lol: After this is all done I will be sorting out the piping and late-spec reservoir and bracket (cylinder reservoir sits up next to washer bottle as opposed to my square one which sits next to battery) :thumb right:

Positive Crankcase Ventilation perhaps 8) sorry, whenever I post on here I automatically think everyone has a KR 16v! :confused4: :cuckoo: :brickwall:

engine and box and everything else is probably a few hundred, maybe £400? Kinda depends on a lot of factors but the old 9a engine gets good money these days, whilst the KR are used to propping up old bikes :shrug:

LOL, it's just a point of reference, so when I talk about cutting up a shell people know which one I mean. Although due to the pure fact that I have cut up a corrado, I guess EVERYONE will forever more know who I am and what I did :cuckoo: :sad: :pale: :cry: :shrug: :eek: :nono: :lol:

the orange clip is probably just to clip the lead to something else, a neatness thing.

That sounds like pretty much everything I have, so seems complete to me. Only thing missing is the front engine mount on the cross-member?

I've resistance tested the 3 WURs i've collected for my KR all off the car and they come in at ~230 Ohms across the electrical connectors. I know one of these works so i'm guessing that value is correct...Yan?

yeah give the timing a go. if you can't be bothered to try the search, there's a thread I started when trying to get the car running. tons of people have uploaded wiring diagrams and things to check on the KR, so it might be a really good place for you to have a read? hth, Jon.

tbh, I've met Jon at the Oxford meet and he seemed a nice enough guy. He's been moaning at me a few weeks ago about getting the ABS sensors off the ex-Danny Allen shell we cut up, so i've been holding them back but had no contact from him so I think i'lm just gonna sell them on :shrug:

Is that safe? I mean you could well be loading the dampers with vertical forces for which they are not designed, i.e. extra forces due to gravity, plus the springs will be forcing them further in that direction potentially past their limit? I know from trying to man-handle a rear beam that they are not light! Just wondering really, looking forward to the science! :D :dorky: :salute:

Fascinating video davidwort! Made me think about how uprated clutches must just have uprated springs (plus be made of a stronger friction material) as people sometimes complain about how the clutch bites a lot quicker when changing gear - a combination of the friction material and spring rates on the plate I suspect.

Where are you based? I seem to have been through most KR starting / running issues getting my Corrado going! :bad-words:

Yeah, there are 2 U/J bolts. The first one is kinda tricky to get to as it's the bolt which tightens the U/J onto the top splined piece of the steering rack itself. If you can get the rubber cover off and are Stretch Armstrong, it should be ok. The other U/J bolt is above this by about 8" (just cabin-side of the firewall/bulkhead) and you can find it just above the pedals on the inside. There's some info on it on my "how to strip a PAS rack" thread, as I took some pics of the spare column i have kicking about. IIRC, the lower one is just a bolt with a threaded opposite side on the U/J, and the upper one (above pedals) is a bolt AND nut. I have a new VAG one here if you'd like the part numbers, should be a a quid, if not less. The nut is copper so looks orangey brown and I think it's a 10mm or a 13mm, one of the 2. Sometimes if there is a tiny bit of slack in this bolt it can translate into a fair amount of vagueness, due to the rotational movement of the steering column and the slack that the loose bolt introduces... hope that makes sense... I think you can leave all trim panels in place, if you're willing to kneel outside the car and kinda crane inwards. by the time you have a ratchet on one side and a spanner on the other, they don't normally slip off and the thread is quite wide so will prob only need a 1/2 turn max. Let us know how you get on!

Did you hear that from page 1 of this thread? :wink: :lol: Oops, didn't mean to poach. Remembered Prodigal mentioning it when he did his Samcos last year :salute: :notworthy: :salute:

New card came today :clap: and i've beeen shoopppppiiinnnngggggg! :D Got the nuts to go with the bolts Ravi sent me (cheers also to coolrado for the help :notworthy: ) Picked up some more Satin Black Hammerite for the steering rack(addicted :eek: - at £8.50 a can it's cheaper than heroine too...) Got the steering rack grease finally (IT'S MASSIVE! like the size of your forearm :shock: -see pic ) Took steering rack internal seals back, mainly cos i'm not gonna use them and for the £25 refund! (that's right, when I go to VW, they give ME money... 8) :lol: ) Gave VW another list of bits (mainly bolts this time, now that the cross-member is done) rack.JPG[/attachment:30beqvo7] After the rack is sprayed and I'm happy with it, I'll threadlock the arms onto the rack and then start rebuilding. A woo hoo! :cheers: :salute:

what is a PCV again? :confused4: