boost monkey

tch, women eh! they're sneaky things..

I won't rush the VR, mostly as I can't afford bits! Lol. Going to start on parts that don't matter, like sorting the interior and body, rather than engine and MOT type items, otherwise I'll get it running and leave it looking like a shed... Going to start the brakes in the very near future, got 288s ready to rebuild, and I'll do the rear calipers at the same time. The fronts will come off and get sold to a certain DBP valver driver ;). Luckily the yard is flat, so it won't escape without any brakes on the car... then I'll start to look at the rear axle, bodywork, etc. got some newer injectors, a working abs ECU and some magnecors in my stores now... Awesome! That DBP driver is a lucky guy :salute: I'm tempted to pick up some new injectors also, but at £20ish quid a pop, it's not really a "on the offchance" kind of part to just swap out!

Hi dean, that's cool. The sensor I pointed tou to literally just covers the dash readout, plus you should have three there in total, 2 above the water pipe and one below and left of it. let us know how you get on with the alternator.

Thanks team :clap: Had another go at the subframe today, but I snapped one of those hardened HSS drill bits! :shock: Think it's gonna be a cutting job on this one... btw, your guiness slippers sound elite, where can I get some of those bad boys? Guinness is the only beer I'll drink (or pay for myself :D )

Why can't you believe this? Maybe you have a really good cooling system with lots of parts in that work as they should! If you mean the sensor for the dash guage, it is one of the 1-pin sensors on the flywheel end of the engine, underneath the distributor. Mine flicker like a MOFO. I'm thinking it could be alternator related too, what kind of voltage are you getting coming out of the alternator whilst the engine is running? Awesome! probably one of the rare early ones... is it on an F plate?

I would check: around the two mount points (the \ / shaped one on the left and the cylinder shaped one on the right), all the welded points (mainly the two arms either side where the frame bolts to the chassis rails), and just all over - you might need to degrease/brush it down to be able to see the metal! hth, Jon.

Here, you'll need to take this:

^^^ ditto. My early 16v always takes 2 attempts to start from cold, I just need a quiet couple of hours to fit the spare ignition switch i have in the glovebox!

Yeah plasticote is a good metal paint, no rust-inhibiting properties afaik, but then all the calipers i've ever seen are brown even after a good brushing and degrease :shrug:

oh it's a deep burn! the burn... it's so deep.... God, I need to get out! :lol:

Good old plasticote should do it, why you want white for that virginal effect? ;) I gather the cost of fertilizer has increased by 50% over the last year, this is according to the local radios farming report that for some odd reason one of the guys at work keeps telling me about. Oh and this is completely :offtopic: You can post whatever you wants, I don't care! :notworthy:

I wanna stroke it, it's so pretty! I doubt you will, but don't rush the VR restoration. I can get so impatient with stuff like this, and end up kicking myself, hence I want to do Ron proud. He's my car (Ron Burgundy, geddit?) not my lover. :camp:

IMO, the paint looks Hammerite-ish, but I hate brush-on stuff. it's too easy to get a run even though it's really gloopy! Edit: so yes, should work on calipers. I've learnt the hard way that degreaser will eat old rubber seals though! (They were past it anyways)

yeah none of your pics work now mate, all the way back to the first page. did you delete them in photobucket or something?

Corrado is pegged, you can get at the back from the boot, but the model variant (16 for me) is sticky baked onto the panel. As mentioned, use something plastic to get it off so that you don't damage paintwork.

Am actually gonna get round to stripping this mother down even further soon, just trying to sort out some other bits and pieces!

ha ha thanks, you're the yeti from NR i assume? Once it stops raining in Ox, i shall venture out again!

Cool, thanks! Block looks awesome :D

dropped my spare alternator yesterday, but thought nothing of it. Just checked it and the blades on the pulley end are catching on the body now when you spin it, so probs binnable. If anyone wants it to use as an exchange one at a shop, PM me.

Yo team, I picked up one of these for £20ish to test it out before shelling out for litres of its individual parts. It's still in a box in my room (as I hammerited the cross-member in the end). It's made up of a little bottle of Marine Clean and Metal Ready plus a small tin of POR-15 rustproof black paint. Anyone had any experiences with it? I have heard good things about it so far. I'm hoping to use it on my rad support panel as that definitely needs more than just hammerite. Cheers, Jon.

no probs! I'm either on here, or traipsing through vagcat :lol: wassat, thermo engineering report? meehhh, i r on teh interwebz!

It'll be stamped with it's part # somewhere hopefully! 053 105 101H Taken from Vagcat (crankshaft for 9A) hth, Jon.

Thanks, I'm going for the yeti look! Lost my big bear claw ones!

ROFLCOPTER!!111!!111oneoneeinzeinz that motivational picture maker website is the best evAr.

Ah yeah, I've used it, was trying to remember the spelling! :? Cheers phil :D I used that kinda stuff on the cross-member up there ^^^, it worked well on the surface rust but did next to nothing on the penetrative rust, so I washed it all off and then wire wheeled the big rust and spray hammerited it after that (satin finish, none of this gloss nonsense!) I'm thinking about trying some paint stripper on the rad support just to get it completely bare metal (NitroMors perhaps?) and then start the refurb from there.