boost monkey

tbh, it could be a completely acceptable amount but the fact that the oil is pooling in the ridges means it is not getting picked up and recirculated by the intake air (as it is out of range of the airflow) and as such seems more evident than it would normally be had that pipe been designed ridge-free. hth, Jon.

Yeah i cant see why jubille clips wouldnt work, i use jubilees for all my supercharger pipes which are high pressure and they work fine. You can get nice chunky jubilee clips anyway! And come to think of it my bottom rad hose is jubilee clipped so I hear that jubilees aren't the best for high-pressure/coolant hoses because they don't grip evenly around the circumference of the pipe. No personal experience mind you, just food for thought.

Engine stand bolts came today, thanks to Ravi for sending me a set and refusing payment for them! Absolute legend :notworthy: :clap: :D So I may actually get around to putting the spare KR up on the stand at some point... :cuckoo: :drinking:

another problem? Let's have it! :D

^^^ U/J play is reaallly easy to Check Jim, I wouldn't go shelling out £180 (ummm,, WTF) at VW yet. Also nip up the U/J bolt (and replace?) whilst you're down there. The U/Js I've played with are solid as you like so I'm not sure how (or if) they wear out, can't see the engineering behind it? Have you checked the rack yet? I'm still learning, but there seems to bea lot of things you can check with the rack itself. It IS possible to get that brand-new steering feel back! The rack I have in bits is really taut, and the second the spline starts turning on the top (connects to U/J & steering column) one of the arm goes out and the other comes into the body.

yeah, you will DEFINITELY need to get a 4-wheel alignment done now you have changed your rack. I promise.

which bolts are you using?

They must hate their wheel bearings.

serious engineering winnage :shock: is it going into production?

Genius!! This is why we let Dec hang around :lol:

the arm on my jack buckled too, the split ring came off the the arm swang down and buried itself in the floor just as i'm lowering the car! does suck matey, but you will feel better about it soon. try a hot bath or hot water bottle strapped to your back with a belt for some relief? My back hurts sometimes and i'm only 25! :(

tbh, i'm not sure i am gonna strip my rack any further, i could very easily rebuilt it with new parts right now and be done with it.

OP, If you still have your fusebox cover, it should say which fuse it is on the back of that.

I think your banter is in keeping with the thread subject! :lol:

Card got cloned recently, so no parts for me over the next week or so! Have cancelled it and waiting for the new one to arrive :(

You really can't wait huh? Undo everything on the rack, you'll find what you're looking for eventually.

possibly... I could drill it out with a 10mm (used a 7mm on those pics) but that would completely remove the bolt AND trash whatever's left of the bolt thread on the subframe itself. Hmm.

AWESOME!!! :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :eek:

What'd the sciences of that then Mr Waldron? This is a guess, but perhaps 16v plugs are slightly hotter so running them in a boosted engine is recommended over the std n/a vr6 plugs? :shrug:

Ok, so I heated the bolt up for what seemed like a lifetime, or until the surrounding metal got warm and the oily bits started smoking, still couldn't get a grip on it with Moles. I tried the 10mm Irwin which bit and bit hard, but then eventually rounded the thread off the sticking out parts of the bolt. So i resorted back to the Dremel. I cut big chunks of the bolt out with a view to trying to drill it again and got it pretty much flat despite only being able to cut in arcs to due to the restricted workspace. Here it was after some preliminary drilling. The reason I couldn't penetrate any further last time was that the drill bit was catching on the subframe hole itself which is made of much harder metal and couldn't be drilled with my little Bosch, so the hole still offset unfortunately: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfdrill1.JPG[/attachment:3bnnrtbd] As the amount of swarf confirmed that I was getting somewhere I continued, until this was all I had left: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfdrill2.JPG[/attachment:3bnnrtbd] It's a shame the whole is offset, but there wasn't much I could do as the larger drill bits wouldn't bit on the raised section. I tried the stud extractor but still nothing, so i'm currently at this stage: drill3.JPG[/attachment:3bnnrtbd] Any ideas? Worth picking up a Snap-On flat headed stud extractor or not? Another good afternoon's work though despite not getting a usable hole at the end of it.

Yeah the headlights always need uprating, there's a massive amount of detail on those here, and uprated wiring loms are readily available on ebay too. it's because the wiring goes from the battery > fusebox > back to headlights so there's a massive voltage drop. my coolant gauge hasn't worked since I had my car too, not sure if it's the sensor or the 'stat. Just adding it to the list tbh! where is the rectifier unit on an alternator? sounds like something I could do with checking as my alternator out and all lights fluctuate slightly. Cheers, jon.

yeah they do. just added you.

argh, smackdown :sad:

:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: love track photos, good work! Yeah the IHI turbo really opens up the 20vt's potential, quite a good mod from what I hear! God, I miss my mk1. It was a rotten old heap but I had a vision!

The soundproofing under the carpets wil be sodded and holding water like mine was, carpets out really is the best option imho.