boost monkey

Interesting one EO. Is your rear quarter window seal alright? Obviously no door seals to leak, but a leaky window would be hidden by the rear cards and may just leak down and pool on the floor. I have no idea why it's greasy though - unless the carpet is greasy and the leak is just showing up that fact.

Post of the month!!!!! probably something stupid like the newer one makes 2hp more.

I will take the hubs and discs/pads if they're all 256mm spec? Would be a nice upgrade for my early Mk2! Any idea if the bearings are good? Mine are perfect and I don't really wanna be doing them again. I'd like first dibs on the PAS rack please. I'm debating it for the Golf - they're quite easy to overhaul too. Also can you send pics? Cheers! Jon. p.s. would prefer delivery too if poss.

Thanks RW1, that's great to know the diagnostic process. I'll have a go at that later. Cheers davidwort, I think you're right. All the stuff around the engine looks pretty old. Will pass 172,000 miles on the way home!

So this morning I had the low rpm low pressure buzzer and light come on during the drive to work. I pulled over within a mile (was on the A34) at the nearest layby, and checked everything. Now obviously checking the oil pump pickup and gauze isn't exactly a roadside affair, but I checked the dipstick(!) which was slightly foamy at the bottom despite the oil being about halfway between min and max. I know the oil was hot but I did give it a couple of mins to drain back down. Anyways, I kept going (I know you shouldn't really) and the light and buzzer came on intermittently. Now I lost a KR to low pressure before so I know the symptoms. But the golf had none of them. I limped it to work So.... any ideas? I'm guessing low oil. I started the car again immediately after parking up and all was well. I revved the engine gently to around 3000 and nothing (perhaps I didn't quite hit the bottom rpm warning threshold). So I'm a little stumped. I'll be gutted if I have killed the block seeing as I just had the cambelt done and it was running really really well. But I know driving with the buzzer going is like a heart attack for the block so I will fully understand if a new block is needed. I'm planning to top up the oil later as the whole left and right hand corner thing makes me think that it needs some more in there (would being 1/2 on the dipstick really affect it that much? IIRC that's only about 0.5 litres). Anyways, I know the Corrado never came with a PB but i'm guessing the 2.0 8v is similar and I know tony_ack pretty much loves fixing my car from across teh interweb!! Jon. ---------- Post added at 08:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:21 AM ---------- Some quick research from here: http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=43587.0 OP: i I have an 8V 90 Golf Gti, Its had a new oil pump and pressure all tested ok, new sensors on the motor. But sometimes the oil light flashes and the buzzer sometimes sounds, if you rev it it goes off, BUT if you go over a bump or cats eye it goes off. On the way home today it I saw it on for a second as I hit a bump and it went off straight away. So I'm thinking bad wiring, or a dodgy sensor? It was from Euro car parts? Where is the sensor ? Theres one on the side of the head thats been rewired with a spade connector from Halfords or something. Or is it the one on top of the oil filter housing? The engine runs at 96deg on the motorway in the warm weather and it runs quiet and smooth, that and its not blown up, makes me think its a little electrical gremlin. Anyone help? Thanks Stu Reply #1: You do know that there are two oil pressure wires don't you? There is one on the oil filter, which is for the 1.8 bar sensor and one at the top right of the head near the heater flange (great word that!). If the oil light and buzzing comes on above 2000rpm it is most likely this wire which is not connecting properly. Easiest way around it is to cut the old connector off, strip back to a new clean bit of wire and put a new female blade on. I had a similar problem with my old digifant, this solved the problem instantly. --------------------------- I've bolded the stuff which I relate to. It just seems odd that the sump didn't start spewing out molten silver and start bucking and jerking as per my KR! Seems the low rpm threshold for the 1.8 bar sensor is 2000rpm too so I know I have been above that whilst the sensor hasn't been on. I'm thinking new clocks prob best idea. I'll wait for your input, Tony! :D

I need updates!

So.... last night was interesting! I did start on doing the bumpers, but ran into a problem with the engine mount cross-member 17mm bolts. They're quite a lot higher than the bottom level of the bumper (funnily enough) and so I used a 3/8" drive with extension. But it just wasn't strong enough and I was worried I would break it and then have to replace as it was ProdgalSon's. So I grabbed the 2ft breaker bar and my 1/2" drive set :D... then remembered my last 1/2" drive extension bar snapped on a hub nut when doing the outer CV joint on the C a few years ago. Pants. In the end i hammered the 11/16" Irwin (these numbers giving you a headache too?) over each of the 17mm bolts in turn, and then set about using my 27mm socket on the outside of the bolt gripper and working the breaker bar around diagonally, avoiding various axle stands and the jack. It was pretty tricky but it worked! I got all 4 of them out, and the cross-member dropped off. I didn't realise that the rad support screws to the bottom of the front panel so even though I had got those side bolts off it was still being held in place, well, kinda dangling off those! As the light was going, I packed up and called it a day. Slightly disappointing that I didn't get further, but I guess lots of rusty bolts and not much clearance slowed progress. The little 13mm pilot bolts on either side of the cross member actually sheared! So on one side I have a 13mm bolt without a head kinda sticking out of the offside. More drama! :-/ This also means that the bumper is free to come off, so I hope no-one comes along and pinches it! It is still tarped so it's not obvious besides it's still on it's side plastic brackets so there's no visual evidence that it's not being held into the chassis rails. More updates as and when.

Cheers rod that sounds good. I had saved one from a previous breaker car but I think i tossed it out when I moved house! Cheers, Jon.

Part Number: 535945258 Description: O/S/R tail light bulb carrier Quantity Available: 1 RRP Including VAT: £15.47 Offer Price: £9.00 Status: Fixed for you :D

So... tonight could be the night! I have some free time and all I gotta do is pull the bumper and front panel and then the whole lot can come out the front :D looking forward to it.

Yeah it's dropped on Koni adjustables, I'm guessing about 40mm as there's only about 2 fingers between arch and tyre unloaded. previous owner put them on and only been there about 6 months. i've got them on the 6th softest setting but they're still quite firm! I've got conti's on the back and Hero's on the front (no comment) so I guess the fronts were swapped to back and then cheapo rubber put on the front. Shame really, I think it will handle a lot better esp round wet roundabouts when it has some grip at the front...!

Very true, any improvement definitely is a bonus! The Mrs is definitely happy now I'm not doing clutch (although she now moans that we have a clutch kit doing nothing!) I'm looking around £100 for both front tyres inc fitting. I think that will get me some reasonable ones. The olds handled well today even in the wet, but I don't like leaving something like tyres once I notice that they are going down. I don't have a tyre guage to measure them, but they don't feel far off the markers despite still having some tread left....but then they'd be bald if they didn't! Cheers tony. I was contemplaying putting the Sebrings off the Corrado on, but actually those tyres aren't great either and also one of the arches rubs on the 14s with people in and on full lock so i doubt putting bigger wheels on will help anything!

I object to you using the word "monkeyed" as a bad word!

SO I adjusted the cable today. I think. I had to use plusgas and molegrips on the thread to get the locknut unlocked, and then I held the hex black sheath and turned the white disc. The visible thread length didn't shorten or lengthen, which gave me a small migraine until I realised that it was probably sleeving itself up into the cable body. After a few trips around the block I realised that the bite had dropped back nearer the middle of the pedal so I felt like it was a job well done. And I can save my new cable for when I do the clutch. But..... riding the clutch up to bite point made me realise that perhaps the old bite point being at the top meant that he clutch wasn't gully engaging? I mean letting th car idle in 1st and running forward at 6pmh (or however fast it is) got me to thinking maybe the clutch was staying on. I mean I'm sure that if the cable was adjusted incorrectly then the clutch may never have been fully engaged or disengaged which I guess could leas to premature wear. Or am I talking tosh...? Also, I noticed that the front tyres are down to the wear indicators so i'm looking for some good wets in a 14! :D

Alex what colour are your shoes today?

I would send you a twix if you did.

Perhaps one of these Kev? Also Jim, do you even fit in a 500?

mauve with red interior? And I thought my burgundy with blue/green fleck was a horrific match!

Same! No-one's mentioned the crazy woman driver! No doubt the cat had already moved by the time she swerved.

16v G60!!!!! :D :D :D that would be 2 in Scotland then! ---------- Post added at 09:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:01 PM ---------- Yeah, it's crossed my mind a couple of times in the last 6 months to sell, but convos with you normally knocked some sense into me! She's only worth maybe 2-300 in this state as it's a complete non runner, and would prob get split for parts which would be a real shame. Yeah VW still make the tray.... it's 50 bloomin quid! just for that! would be nicer than just a plate but we'll see how the money goes...! ---------- Post added at 09:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 PM ---------- Thanks aide. Yeah it's nice to get involved after all this time. I'm glad the lines held up aswell, the extra nickel in them makes them a bugger to bend as they're much stiffer but they just corrode far less so I think it's worth it. I need to fill in that T-piece before it gets blocked up with nasty stuff! Yeah, I'll have to take a crash course in Mig welding I think!

LOL. Yeah I'm stalking you on my lunch hour every day :D Yeah, completely makes sense. I will look at the cable tonight. Unfortunately I don't even have basic tools with me in the car anymore. Perhaps the cable is on the way out then. I'll see if I can pick one up. IIRC I have no paperwork to tell me the clutch has been done, and the odo has just passed 171k.... i'm hoping the box isn't going to let go too! :lol: I'll be making a trip to VW to order the 6 pressure plate bolts for the clutch assembly, and I'll ask them about clutch cables also then I think I have all I need. Being a daily I may farm this out: wrestling with rusty LBJs isn't something i'm looking forward to, let alone trying to squeeze the box out past the chassis rails! In previous experience, i've had clutches just go before actually slipping. My mk2 16v was testament to that, but then again the linkages were SO bad that I once got 3rd instead of 1st, floored it and must have taken a few thousand miles of material off...! I don't mind limping around in the golf until I actually get the clutch done. IMO it still has enough torque at part throttle to get around reasonably well. I will deffo adjust the clutch cable tonight, and also try and get a new one this afternoon perhaps (my office is on an auto industrial estate so lots of factors). Cheers TONY_ACK!!11!!!1oneone ---------- Post added at 01:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:22 PM ---------- Yeah i've got a factor round the corner with a manual one for just under £20 so I'll pick that up tonight and possibly fit it later if the current one doesn't seem to have much left in it. Cheers for the help again. I have ham for you?

Yeah, I'll strip the head down myself. When I was in Bim on placement I must have done 1-2 heads a week, so all I need really is a set of valve spring compressors and I'll prob have it stripped bare in an hour. I'm thinking of stripping it and taking it to a machining company to see if the block side is flat or warped. Might turn out more expensive than just buying another head, as they seem to go for about £50 complete. Plus if I do that then I confine myself to the 16v engine. I guess i could always use a 2l block.

Anyone (probably tony_ack, let's be honest) who knows about old cable clutches (i.e. non hydraulic) can give me a hand with this one? When I bought the golf, the clutch bite was reasonably high so I bought a clutch and it's been in the boot ever since. The bite point has been progressively working its way to the top of the pedal, so the pedal needs less and less travel to disengage the clutch. Does this mean the clutch is on its way out or that the cable needs adjusting? I think the car has a manual adjust cable on - white plastic ring with threaded sleeve and a locknut on it. If so, it's got about 30mm thread visible above the nut. IIRC the auto adjust cables don't have this and look like a thin black plastic tube but i could be wrong as i'm thinking back about 5 years to my Jetta days! It would be great to know whether the cable just needs adjusting (it is looking a little old, white oxide on the threads) or even whether I can just buy a new cable or if indeed the clutch is going.... but I would have thought the bite point would get lower and lower if the clutch was going? If anyone can help this would be great. The drive in this morning was a little hairy, I'm not sure if the clutch is slowly getting thinner (more than normal!) or whether I just put the seat in the wrong locater hole after my short wife was driving it at the weekend! :lol:

I think so, I'm surprised more greasy parts aren't kept on actualy recaro interiors!

Top of front members on nearside. Chassis rail has seen better days, as has an old worn PAS tank bracket. Members in the middle. Front mount undone, but left for now. I'll get to it after the bumper is off. OS end of front members. might be able to make out the 191199xxx part number of the rad support which is clearly a mk2 golf item. No PAS Cooler Holes. Glad to see the Copper Nickel and junctions have stood the test of time! I should hope so really as they're just above the gearbox and not really in harm's way! Ghetto tag B-) nearside suspension turret is filthy, but the paint has survived well. I'm looking forward to cleaning the whole bay up soon! Hone marks in bores show that the block is still good...? ....Hmm, maybe not. Some nasty rust scabbing on the top deck. May have been the water pump failure damage over 2 years ago and now rusted. Cyls 2 and 3 look well, although some funny pocked marks on the left piston crown (Cyl 3?) Cyl 1 looks well and was the healthiest of the lot in the compression test. Not surprising really as it's the furthest from the water pump! Cylinder head as I took it off. Looks pretty reasonable - exhaust valves a nice sandy colour same with the spark plugs (3 electrodes....why?) Close up on the Cyl 4 end of the head. Some rusty scabbing seen in the same place. Still hoping this head is reusable. As the Plum sits now. Picked up a new tarp for her which i'm glad to have gotten on today as it's rained this evening! Should keep water out the engine bay.