boost monkey

POR-15 Starter kit from Frost.co.uk gets my vote. Plenty of coverage in my Plum thread.

It's not mine, just found it when I was browsing.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK3-GTI-2-0-16V-ENGINE-BUY-NOW-85-/230668366586?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b4e7f2fa

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-GTI-corrado-Full-2-0-16v-9A-Engine-conversion-/120767971815?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1e5501e7 No doubt someone with space and spare time could make some pennies on this shell, and keep another few on the road? Sills are rotten so probs not worth salvaging.

They're about £20 delivered on ebay.

You could take it to somewhere that does "Dye penetrant inspection". That basically involves looking for cracks by covering the part in a UV reflective fluid and shining flourescent light on it. Might work. I know my company get it done for a bunch of the castings they have, just for piece of mind against weakness/fatigue.

I found a track rod removal tool at Halfords, it's called something weird like a Fan Bearing Spanner. All you need to make sure is that one end is 38mm (IIRC - probs worth checking size on my Plum thread / with someone else). If the pump got hit hard then the pulley or shaft may be bent. The fact that it spins freely is a good sign though. Do you think its savable? You should be able to source one from a Mk2 golf as you're a 1991 boy. I have an oil pump you can have, but it's a 16v one and IIRC it is spline drive off the aux shaft as opposed to the digi 8v one which is a slotted drive. Let me know, it's just sat in my boot at the mo. Pretty sure you can take the track rods off without taking the subframe, but its fiddly and I think you'll need to pop out the driveshaft to get some space. I have a rad support too, but it might be a mission to get it up to you.

Nice :D

Dunno if this helps, but I have VR6 Gas shocks on my 1990 16v all around, so you don't have to go for just 16v suspension. Jon.

powercaps are big capacitors which store up current for the ICE system to use. I'm not really good with electronics, but I think that's how they work. It just takes the load off the battery a bit IIRC.

my mk2 golf is going in a lot of places, and seeing as it's only 1 year apart from my Corrado i have no doubt they are both infected. If only I had an acid dip...!

40mm rocker cover???? I thought they were al the same regardless of Inlet Manifold diameter!

This is what happens when you're thinking of dundee cake too much. So are those the only parts you need? Can you use your spare instead of the alloy, and perhaps run without the PAS for the time being? I know I have!

you can find complete heads on the bay up to 50 normally.

These are cheap as chips mate. Deffo go for a new one. Most factors will do them, same as the old Mk2 models, 8 and 16v.

I did the 2 rear boxes today. Used all VAG clamps and rubbers, so it's nice and tight now. I got a shock though... IT'S SO BLOOMIN LOUD! I drove about a bit, so that the assembly paste could expand and bake to make an airtight fit, but the boxes still sound so boomy. I thought maybe they have a leak but I have confirmed that neither of the 2 joins I did are leaking. When I cover one of the 2 tailpipes it gets a LOT quieter, so i'm wondering whether the backbox (made by Euroflo - anyone had experience?) is just very boomy and the exhaust is resonating inside the cavity. I found some consolation in that driving with the window down it is clear that it is louder in the cabin than it is outside, so it's not too boyracerish. Perhaps it's the cabin/interior enclosure thats making it sound like that. I'm just wondering if it will bed down as the rear box (only new part, other box was 2nd hand) gets coked up inside. Thoughts appreciated! p.s. I'm still impressed by the sheer force of the air being expelled out of the rear box. That's some serious compression! I wonder if al the 8v's are like this... ---------- Post added at 06:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:47 PM ---------- The exhaust swap gave the normal hassle. The backbox even had a jubilee clip on which seemed to be trying to hold the hanging bracket onto the box itself! Ah, ebay cars.... I didn't bother wasting time and used Erwins on both of the clamps. With those off, I cut the old rubbers from the backbox, and began to twist it in an effort to break the putty holding the two parts together. The backbox sheared where the adjoining pipe goes into the box! Then it swung down and hit my shin :@ stupid thing. Then the part of the backbox that stayed on the other box acted as a hook and made it really hard to get it off the rear axle!!! omg, I thought the Corrado was hard work! Anyways, it's all done now. The rear box came with black paint / rustproofing on the tail pipes. I'm not sure if I like it. I wonder if it will burn off.

I now have all the parts I need to replace my exhaust! All rubbers and clamps from VW, then a centre box from online and a rear box from local place. Looking forward to doing that this weekend, see if I can get rid of the raspy noise - garage told me both boxes are peppered with lots of little holes. Also OSF window reg has given up the ghost so looking for another one of those so I can use the window again!

the whole of my front end is VW Spares stock and it drives spot on (although the suspension is VAG parts with Boge gas shockers).

Ah don't start this again! No cars are designed to be used with incredibly uprated mounts! Even in high end racing they still use the OEM mounts for the engines, Porsche Cup and GT3 come to mind!!

To be fair, I got my parts from VWSpares so it was a lot of Febi/Topran stuff which does seem to last a bit better.

:D welcome anyways :D

Welcome to the forum. Are you Russian?

That's not Burgundy. Good luck with sale.

:lol: some of us have had good experiences with the cheaper stuff, especially those on a budget / student / scrooge!

Sounds like it is trying to draw too much current. What speakers are you running? Any subs or amps? Are you just using the battery supply or powercaps etc?