boost monkey

the 16vt thread has been culled unfortunately.

perhaps if you offered some of your turtle necks, it would sweeten the deal?

I've heard Grey Stripe be recommended for underseal replacement a fair bit.

Hey fella, really sorry about the delays. Lost the digital camera, and right in the middle of final exams for uni also! Please see pics below: Drivers side, still has some underseal on: As you can see, little bit of rust on the bottom edge that attaches near the sill/floorpan area. Let me know what you feel like paying, I think £50 posted is reasonable.

Hey fella, really sorry about the delays. Lost the digital camera, and right in the middle of final exams for uni also! Please see pics below: Passenger side: Drivers side, still has some underseal on:

I don't think you'll have a CSI on a G60. Your best bet is to check the rubber fuel lines which are around / connect to the fuel rail. I know they can perish and make the inside smell like petrol.

Trains can't roll OFF their tracks and houses don't tend to move either :lol:

I don't like the idea of anything that can potentially allow the car to slip off, especially when you're underneath it so I'd never recommend ramps. Especially home made ones! Give me a pair of small metal tripods any day.

Sounds like what happened to my C when the stupid clutched pulley let go. It would slowly creep up in temp, both oil and coolant, and then the expansion tank would whistle like a kettle. Not sure if there's much to check on the pump, IIRC a genuine one is about £20 so not much hassle but I could be wrong on price. I'm going to swap the plum's one onto my golf very soon as it's only done about 100 miles.

the halfords ones work fine, but as said you get what you pay for. paying a lot for jack is a waste of money for me, my car only cost £400 so having a single tool worth 1/4 of its value is a bit of a worry.

to be honest Andy, I think we've come to realise you don't know what you're doing under the bonnet. Probably best to take it to a bosch certified garage as mentioned in your other thread.

Yours is a VR6 isn't it? If it helps a number of newer VAG engines have plastic impellers in the water pumps.

Halfords, £30 a set? Not really something you need to shell out £££ for unless your car is silly low and you need a low profile jack which ARE £££.

are you sure you can't find a Bosch certified garage near you? I'm sure they'll know the K-Jet system, as it's pretty basic by today's standards.

Have you checked your stat housing? they warp pretty quick. I'll be doing that on the Golf soon, after robbing the near-new parts off the Plum's engine.

send me some biltong eh bru! i'm lis for it :D

I have never heard of changing negative camber at the back despite finishing up a BEng in Motorsport Engineering at the moment! I'll quiz my lecturers about it and see what they have to say. I've never bothered with trackdays (way too much £££ imo) so I've never really needed to know about it. Interesting that my degree hasn't mentioned it though. ---------- Post added at 08:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:37 PM ---------- Edit: do you want rear camber to generate camber thrust when turning? I've read something about that, but not much else tbh.

I have never heard of that before. Can you elaborate, or point me towards some books? I have never come across anything which has told me that the dynamic loads through each of the four contact patches is affected by camber.

Why does the power graph not drop off? Looks a bit fishy, especially for the non cross flow asthmatic 8v head. The fact that the RR machine is called 'Fritzkrieg' makes me think it breaks down a lot! Perhaps it's not reading accurately.

Got to log in to see that matey, so not a huge amount of use?

tbh I don't think any amount of sticky thread or sellotape or duct tape is going to stop a VR stalling!!11!!!111oneone :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Ok, you're contradicting yourself. Do you want to doit right or do you want to keep costs down? Can't have both I'm afraid! Fault Tolerance = Reliability. So you have Performance, Cost and Reliability. You can pick only two, or you can have an average kinda car but balancing them all. Normally one of the 3 suffers though.

why not just use a whole ABF engine? to be honest mate, if it's already spiralling out of control it sounds like you haven't budgetted enough for the conversion. You don't want to get it up and running and then not be able to drive it as you need a new clutch / brakes etc etc etc after they wear out. why don't you just use a KR engine and go from there? the pistons should still fit, I think it's an 82.5mm bore.

:facepalm: why would you want to change the camber on the rear? they don't steer.

why do you want a camber/castor kit for the rears?