pete_griff

Please tell me your getting rid of the chrome front. Its the only thing I dont like about the Mk5 R. Black would look much nicer. x2! :D

just seen your previous page - loving the cake and loving the garage even more 8) tbh it's a good job i don't have a garage like that otherwise there would be all manner of projectness going on inside it!!! :lol:

Check this thread out and you should be sorted :-) viewtopic.php?f=11&t=92039

get hold of a standard vag rear mount, mk3 diesel gearbox mount and keep the vf front mount. i THINK that's generally accepted as one of the better setups for oem comfort etc. surprised you're getting major vibrations - i had mounts which were rock hard in mine (not through choice!) and i would only get a little vibration etc and that was only when sat still with the engine idling. the r32 is so much smoother than the vr it seemed not to be so much of an issue in mine...

looks nice, you seem to be doing all the right things here - will be watching with interest :) just do it a bit faster please! :lol:

Mine didn't, and it was/is a genuine VW part. hmmm - my bad then! i THINK that mine did, but i can't remember that for certain now and i also can't remember if mine was genuine or not... (nicely definitive there!)

new tensioners come with "the bolt" iirc... and yeah - there's no way you should be driving it in it's current state - i'm guessing that if you basically have no pulley left at all though, that the belt is as slack as alice and you weren't driving it anyway (i hope!!!) :shrug:

good to see you're getting stuck in! :lol: good job the timing belt is getting done - looks like that one is getting a bit tired... eek! at the rust - if i was you i would be hunting for a replacement rather than bothering with that rad support panel...

yes and yes :D

a be-lated happy birthday from me to pal :D that view is fantastic - very jealous! is that from the top of birdlip?

:scratch: well that's a strange way round of doing things! personally i would be more concerned about replacing head bolts a fair bit before i thought about the con-rod bolts on a vr... oh well - all is good now 8) without mentioning names/garages etc - "someone" was running a supercharged vr that had the install done by a "reputable" garage and it was still using the stock head bolts!!! perhaps not such a good idea force feeding an engine that has stretch bolts methinks! needless to say the car in question is currently off the road; shame really for the garage overlook something a simple as that.

sounds very much like your pulley has grenaded then sorry pal! there should be a round pastic bit (like in the picture) with grooves in it for the grooves in the belt to sit into... if you ain't got it then it's time for a new pulley. i would normally recommend NOT going to GSF for bits, so it's up to you... think they are about £60-70 from gsf and unsure from the main dealer. that said unless you're doing lots of miles and planning on keep the car for aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaages, then a gsf jobbie will probably do just fine

that's a nice surprise! 8)

the pulley is simple enough to take off the tensioner, but bear in mind that the bolt is a reverse thread when you take it off and it's likely to be pretty tight... check the pulley wheel itself for wear, and if it's ok then you can simpy press the old bearing out, take it to a bearing place and get it replaced like-for-like then press the new one back in. SIMPLES :d

is it possible you've picked up some $hit fuel somewhere - sloshing around and going up/down hills would bring out a problem like that...

this thread would be helped lots by pictures! also the metal part of the actual wishbone/s is likely to be alright (if probably not as nicely welded and hence not as strong as the oem items...), but the actual themselves are likely to be made of inferior rubber and also possibly not as nice a "fit" into the actual wishbones as the oem jobbies would be. oem bits from the dealer are undoutedly more expensive, but its for a reason and generally it's false economy to buy patent parts from places such as gsf in the long run

surprised Mark can't help you - isn't he still doing a can-bus converter that you could use to run the rev counter? either that or pin 36 of the ecu should run it (iirc - or possibly 46, cant remember 100%!), but that obviously depends on your ecu. i take it yours is a BUB engine code...

looks lovely pal - like those wheels as well. would have bought a set myself if i wasnt planning on brembos... defo stick with the idea of swaping the rears to something a bit less "scene" if it was me though :D

yes the sump will be fine - just make sure you put some wood under it to protect it a bit. other than that, you're pretty much there - yes it's the bolts on the middle of the bumper retaining bolts to take it off (worth ordering some new ones from VW btw - mine were buggered when i got them off). before you drop the mount, just make sure the engine is secure and isn't going to move fr once the mount is no longer in-situ... it's very easy, just think about it and be careful and methodical

there is also a sticker with a bar code on it on the head - [strike:wsvsusto]THINK it's the tensioner pulley end of the head but uncertain[/strike:wsvsusto]; that'll tell you the engine number/type :) edit - it's on the clutch/chains end of the head on the upper chain casing; check out the pics at the bottom of this page thats certainly the case for a mk5 r32 lump anyway!

i believe it's commonly known as "insanity spec" :nuts: :nuts: :nuts: glad to see it's progressing there pal. rather looking forward to my first spin out in it in future; let's hope it stays dry!!! :twisted: :onfire:

hey pal, congrats on your trophy - well deserved as the car is always looking stunning 8) re-kindling the love was going to be inevitable once you got it back from DG :lol:

Not too much really as Shaun has done such a good job. Suggestions welcome Sort out bits for an MOT: Washer bottle back in & connect pipes. Green flashing rear indicator bulbs (currently original so flashing red) High performance Cat as none currently Monday Electric Recaro seats (in the garage) Adjust suspension set up for me Future Intercooler so can put boot back to standard Move battery back to engine bay Porsche front brakes (Boxter S In the garage) possibly. I'm impressed with the Audi TT brakes on car Audioscape enclosers/focal speakers Rear speakers as none currently Uprate full beam Considered, but unlikey Gas flow and port engine & strenghen some engine parts Have considered 4WD, but not sure Question does a UK Mot require white light rear reverse light as none currently due to tinting? - lovely car you've bought and welcome to the forum seeing as i've never spoken to you before :wave: if it was me then i would defo strengthen some of the engine bits (know it has stock rods, unsure about pistons - but get some wossners if it hasn't got 'em and def do the rods). also defo get arp fixings all round if it hasn't already got them. intercooler is a nice idea, but can't understand why you want the battery back up front - less room in the bay, worse weight distribution... personally i found i could easily cook the 312s that i had on my corrado and that was only circa 300bhp - give it time driving it and you'll almost certainly want some better stoppers. gas flowing the head and sorting some nice bigger valves, 3-angle valve seats etc would certainly be a good idea - it' pricely, but you can get some good gains if sticking with the 12v setup. not sure if he's still working nowadays, but google puma racing; the guy there is VERY good at head/engine work 4wd would be the next logical step for this corrado, but its a very big job and not one to be taken on a whim (as i'm sure you're aware). you would obviously loose the car for a hefty chunk of time getting it converted as well. Ian (coxxylad on here) is a good bloke to tap for info on that one as his 4wd r32 conversion was probably the most comprehensive conversion anyone has ever done on a 'rado. welcome again, lovely motor you've bought - please keep us updated :D

surprised your hose went that bad when i was covered in heatwrap AND supposed to be "high-temp"... i guess with the temps generated by the snail, it was only a matter of time. your car must be getting pretty near the 100% mark reliability wise now you've been running it for so long Kev... (touches wood!)

you need a "multi-spline" bit. i think that's the correct name - basically they look a bit like a torx bit but with 2-3 times the amount of teeth... have a look at the head bolts and you'll see what i mean!