pete_griff

Nothing beats fiddling with yourself with a laptop in the car... :lol: :lol: :lol: maybe i'll check over my posts a little more carefully in future! - children!

you do indeed need the custom downpipe - but that is now an off the shelf item from storm. also by far the simplest way of doing it is just to retain the existing corrado box - your vr6 box will bolt straight onto the r32 lump, then there's no need for custom mounts/driveshafts etc etc. it is a bit crap remaining 5 speed admittedly when you are going to the trouble of doing an engine swap, but it's LOTS more work if you are adament you want it to be 6 speed. the expensive bits as dinkus rightly says are the engine and the ecu. however if you are even slightly proficient with a soldering iron, making up a loom is really quite easy - just follow the instructions from the wiring diagrams and you can't go wrong. the good thing about going standalone is that you don't have to worry about gay things like getting the clocks and all sorts of other crap with the engine when you buy it - all you will need is the pedal box from the original car for the drive by wire and everything else you can sort quite easily yourself. plus it's a big bonus having a system that you can fiddle with yourself with a laptop in the car!

yeah cheers kev - i agree as it stands at the moment. i spoke to vince at stealth who said that he had installed a DTA system on an r32 in the past and was impressed with the results. he also said that stealth only use DTA and they are very happy with their results and reliability. haven't had a play around with the software of either the DTA or the emerald as the computers at work won't allow me to download/install stuff, however after looking at the sample screens, the DTA seems pretty easy to understand/setup - we'll just have to wait and see i guess...

haha - i don't think i'm going to be using megasquirt, cheers anyway! i know emerald are good, but i've heard better things about DTA, so i'm in two minds. in all fairness though, it's going to be 6 months before i buy it now, so something new and amazing may have come out by then - at the moment though, to me anyway, dta looks to be better specced to deal with everything complicated the r32 has (e.g the vvt, the flap in the inlet manifold, the cam sensor etc etc) - but i'm still keeping an open mind. cheers for the input gents, most appreciated. really can't wait to get back in 6 months now so i can crack on with the project :)

i'm going to be getting an r32 engine to put in my corrado towards the end of this year. when i do, i may well get a standalone management system (e.g. DTA S80) as the wiring will need re-doing anyway, so that would be the ideal time. i was wondering exactly what sort of bhp figures i would expect to see and exactly what effects the system would have on fuel epecially and just daily running - i would expect it to be better in every way (also i think you can run two maps with the S80 - i.e one for power and one for economy; operated just by a manual switch), but any information from members with any experience of standalone systems would be really appreciated - i'm especially looking to kev haywire here as i know he's running DTA standalone already. cheers again gents (my plan is to rebuild the r32 engine before i put it in my car and get a new cam kit, mainly just so everything in the engine is new, including the cams and followers. i was going to go for a mild cam as i'm not going for horrendous power, as fuel economy is still an issue as i do lots of miles and i don't think there's much benefit to be had from having stupid power through a front wheel drive car. i would be perfectly happy with about 260-270 bhp as i know the standard engine is 236-just to help anyone with any suggestions about the management system...)

there is also the question of how well the head has been sorted out... there are lots of so called "experts" out there when it comes to properly flowing a head. quite simply the only way you can achieve proper power gains on a head is with a flow bench and a good deal of time spent testing/adjusting. it is a very time consuming labour intesive process - good for large power gains when it's done correctly as it lets the engine breathe so much more effectively. however there are lots of people ouot there who will just take a grinder to the ports, smooth/open them out a bit and then tell you that the head has been correctly ported/polished. This is complete bollards. If it's not done correctly, then porting/polishing a head can actually reduce the flow and lose you power. (Not saying you've been ripped off or anything to that end), but if i were you i'd check with the garage you bought the head off and ask them exactly what work occurred and where it was done, as if there isn't a flow bench there, then i would question what the money you paid them has gone towards. i'm no expert, but i'm fairly sure that if the head has been ported/polished correctly, you should immediately see power gains, no matter what state of tune the car is in - yes it will require a remap, but i would have thought you should still see a gain over previous power readings no matter what... a good site to read about cylinder head porting is http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/ dave baker really does know his stuff, not sure if he does vw heads like the vr6, but i don't see why not... hope that helps

thanks for the reply buddy

cheers for all the advice gents - well appreciated kev it does sound like the connections on the back of my clocks need attention, as i've been getting some very strange readings etc. thanks again for the offer of the injectors, but to be honest i'm getting pretty pi$$ed off now with fixing the car and pouring money into the engine, when i'm only going to replace it at the end of this year with an r32 unit, so this weekend i limped it to where it's going to live for 6 months and i'm just going to leave it there. i'm off on my 6 month "holiday" very shortly, so frankly i just cant be arsed to keep on throwing money and time at something that i'm not going to see the benefit from. i would much rather it was driven round for the 6 months i'm not here, but i've run out of patience now as it's spent more time off the road than on it so far! edit: - another thing, my friend who is looking after it for me took the car up the road the other day and said that it was perfect - plenty of power and didn't missifre once!... the saga continues! edit edit: - i'll try and put this in the correct thread this time :ignore:

i'm after some new injectors for my 1993 vr6 an dhav efound some on ebay in the states. can anyone confirm these are the right part number for me, or that they would just fit my car, as i'm unsure of the oem flow rate etc... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 96856&rd=1 cheers

cheers dr-mat totally agree with the price - V cheap; from the states though, so they'll take time to arrive. i'm pretty certain it's fuel as it was doing it when warm sporadically during/after a drive and it varies in just how bad it actually is, and it literally just started out of the blue yesterday - never done it before... i'll defo check the MAF though, should have thought of that really, cheers any other ideas anyone?

any help from anyone would be really appreciated, as i don't really want to shell out on a new set of injectors when i don't need them. also has anyone in/near hereford got VAG-COM as i would happily pay to be able to use it...

another question while i'm on the subject - i've never had any experience with VAG-COM or whatever it's called. how good is the diagnostic on old cars like the 'rado vr6 (mine's 1993). also i take it a decent vw garage would be able to sort me out with reading it and codes etc... as i know a friend who works at a vw dealership if it's any good it might help me shed some light on whats going on. also i've noticed my speedo (again since yesterday) has started to drop all of a sudden to zero then back up (after wobbling around a bit) to the speed it should be (lucky i use a road angel). also the engine oil temp seems to be reading very low all of a sudden compared to what it normally does - car's got plently of oil in, pressure is ok, but after a "spirited" drive down my favourite b-road which would normally see the temp rise to 115 and above, it's reading very low, like 60-70 at most, then dropping right off after the car has sat still for 5 mins. i had to re-solder a load of new wires in where my exhaust got so hot it melted the ones that run over the exhaust tunnel just behing the gear shift-mech - could my instrument troubles be caused by more melted wiring elsewhere, and if so where, asi can't think that it would cause melting anywhere else? cheers again

i've got a friend with an integra type-r who lunched his 3rd gear whilst trying to race me in what was my impreza wr1. he took it to a place called longbridge gearbox centre who rebuilt it for him and replaced all bearings/seals/syncros etc that he needed and it also involved taking the subframe off the bottom of the car in order to get the gearbox out. they charged him something like £230 all in which i thought was bloody brilliant to just drop the car off then pick it up again ready to drive away. they are based somewhere in birmingham i think and i was pretty impressed with the job they did on my friend's car; put everything back exactly how it should be without breaking anything which is exactly what you want the number is 01214777744 - longbridge gearbox centre by the way, as tallpaul says, if you can stretch for the cash, now would be a good time to fit an lsd if you were ever planning to hope that helps

my car has developed a sporadic missfire yesterday thats become more frequent now, but is still not there all the time which makes me instantly think fuel. it's just had new leads/plugs/coilpack and it does make a difference (even if it is only a little) when taking off each lead one at a time while it's running. i've just done the head gasket and obviously replaced all the other gaskets (inlet/exhaust etc) so i'm pretty certain there's no air leak anywhere, and also up until now the car has been running really well. i'm getting white smoke which stinks of fuel and i had to change all the injectors from one manifold to another owing to mine breaking. i'm guessing that it could only be the injectors now - anyone got any other thoughts... also have sourced some more injectors that are reconned/flow tested etc for approx £65 that i will hopefully buy in the next day or two also can someone confirm that this is the part number for me - Part number: 0 280 150 953 cheers

i'm also unsure exactly what's involved with a g60 - but superchargers are like turbo's and not scary at all - they are just bolted on in the same way as anything else, have an air inlet and outlet and an oil inlet and outlet and also a belt on a supercharger (in a nutshell) really not complicated! as for the head, it's just the same as any other old VW 1.8 - recently helped a friend rebuild a scirocco engine and it was a piece of pi$$ - only annoying thing is that the head is siamese (or however you spell it) and the exhaust and inlet are on the same side, which basically equates to it being slightly more annoying when tightening up the manifolds, but it's hardly the end of the world! defo get someone on here local to you to do it for you - you will save a fortune! just a note to whoever does it - it's probably just me being anal, but i like to dry crank the engine (i.e disconnect say the coil and wind the engine over for a bit on the starter) to build the oil presure back up after disconnecting the charger feed lines and taking the head off, just until the oil light on the dash goes out, then you know everything's ok good luck :)

ok firstly i want to say thanks very much guys for all your tips and suggestions very much appreciated - i am however being a complete and total muppet and feel really quite embarrased now! - i had accidentally managed to turn the traffic reports function on my stereo on, and because i never listen to the radio, it was just beeping at me to tell me there was new traffic info - i just didn't know what it was as i've never used it before! cheers again gents - really sorry to waste your time :oops: :oops: :oops: (cue the laughing!)

if that's the case, then maybe the speakers are just going quiet as the current goes elsewhere from the head unit to the beeper behind the gauges - i've recently had the head unit out and it was immaculate - also it's a pretty new unit, so i really do doubt thats the problem

hmmm - doubt it's going to be damage to the head unit as the matrix was leaking straight into the carpet and i've seen no steam etc, and the beep is coming from the speakers as the radio quietens itself slightly when the beep comes on - i have replaced the speakers in the top of the dash with aftermarket jobbies, so it could be that the beep as standard comes from the standard versions of those... it's definitely nothing to do with the alarm as the alarm is in a completely different place and the siren is in the engine bay, plus my car is immobilised to buggery, so if there was an alarm fault i would expect to be stopping very quickly. as for the oil, i just don't know, the warning light hasn't shown even a hint of being on, ever! and i'm pretty anal about checking the level, but i guess it might possibly be low... - as you say, could be a sensor - that was my first thought (i really hope its a sensor anyway if it is in fact oil related) will investigate it further this evening... cheers for the replies fellas

i'm using ngk iridiums - i know they are a bit of overkill for my car, but i can drive the car as hard as i want and not have to worry about the plugs until i change the engine at the end of the year now- got mine for £35 delivered off shebay...

Ok i'm getting a beep from my speakers, both when driving and when stationary. I've read another topic on here saying about low oil pressure, but i've got a gauge and pressure is fine, even when properly warm and the engine is just idling... anyone got any ideas? my heater matrix has just blown up and for the time being i've deleted it from the system with a piece of copper pipe so i can drive the car without losing coolant and getting soggy carpets - could that have anything to do with it? i'm going to take the car out again tonight to confirm everything i've said here, but as far as i'm aware, i shouldn't have any oil related issues... (i hope :? )

see how you get on - but with those you may even struggle with air as home compressors/air tools generally aren't man enough for the job. your best bet is probably to take it to a garage - good luck anyway :)

hey there my friend, not wishing to pi$$ on your bonfire, but black diamond clutches are really just another name for standard clutches - i had a brand new black diamond clutch an a fairly highly tuned ax i used to own and even without doing horrible starts etc, my engine destroyed that clutch in exactly the same way as a standard one as it just couldn't cope with the increase in power. if you are really serious about getting a performance clutch then the people to talk to are helix. if your engine is running somewhere near to what the factory intended with regards to bhp, then that clutch should be fine. i don't know if sachs make clutches for black diamond, but in all honesty i would prefer a clutch with sachs' name on than black diamond anyway. (i also had a set of black diamond brakes which were pretty crap) sorry buddy - not wishing to have a go at you or slate your purchase, but in my personal opinion black diamond are w&nk - i'd be happy with the clutch you've got unless you plan on doing lots racing starts etc or have a highly tuned engine (say 210+ bhp if you want a very rough figure...)

Thanks for that - I have some Goodridge lines waiting to go on - Regarding the brake union - are you saying it can only be disconnected by the smaller nut on the solid line? If this were loosened should the flexible hose just drop down throught the mounting point? Does it matter whether the clip on the mounting point stays on does the union have to be released from the mounting point first? Many thanks[/quote:bsa7su0b] yes you have to remove the smaller nut first and then the larger part on the end of the hose will drop out of the mounting (well you'll probably have to wiggle/tap it out). the clip (if there is one on the car) can be removed at any time before the larger end drops out...

try pulling the leads off and giving them a clean and check in the plug bores for any excess water/moisture etc - also check the integrity of the connection point inside the leads and on top of the plug - these can become corroded and give crap sparks

also a good thing to try to remove the old line before you have to cut through it is a good set of mole grips with some sharp teeth on them to grip the bolt - don't be at all surprised if the line shears off though while you are undoing the bolt. another thing is to make sure you keep the little gromet that goes around the line where it goes through the inner arch and into the engine bay so you can put it on the new line/s when they go on