pete_griff

thanks very much dr mat :D

Does anyone know if the ABS pump off a g60 would fit onto a vr? how many different types of pump are there anyway? any information anyone could spare would be gratefully received...

:lol: haha - that's exactly what i was thinking. i used to go through t1-s's like you wouldn't believe! i had a set of t1-r's that i thought would last longer on a 306 s16 i used to own. i did "encourage"the 306 around the bends and the tyres were illegal within about 3 months! (i do lots of long journies mind you). my friend has got some proxies 4's on his motor and they seem to be lasting much better than the t1-s or t1-r 's so far. personally i'm a big fan of eagle f1's, but i'll save any further discussion for the tyres thread and stop hijacking this one!

go for an 24v or r32 engine - same power, but better delivery, better economy and better reliability just don't start looking for an r32 lump at the same time as me! :)

if you do try with torx, all well and good, but make sure you have some high quality torx bits otherwise you will sheer the torx bits if they are cheap. also irwins are amazing - the two allen head bolts that hold on the rear caliper carriers were absolutely rusted and fubar'd on my car, nothing was getting them out. i "woke them up!" with the tap of a hammer and then they came straight out with irwins - top notch bits of kit - i have a collection of them :D

just to leave my 2penneth - when i recently did all my bushes i have gone for uprated audi tt bushes on the front, as they are harder than the standard rubber ones, but are still rubber and softer than powerflex - so the best of both worlds IMO. i have powerflex on the rear, partly as they were so easy to fit as i was doing it myself, and as cheeswire says, they still allow a little flex (although granted, not as much as standard jobbies), but personally i'm a big fan of having lift-off oversteer on tap when you want it. standard are probably very good, but you will get fitting issues unless oyu have the right kit and, with the way that the rear beam moves, (personally) i can't see there being a massive difference in longevity between the standards and powerflex. i haven't done many miles in the car, as by the time i got it all finished, other things broke on it and then i had to leave the country for a while! first impressions remain good though :)

i'm certainly no expert, but other than the tracking, you might want to check out what sort of condition your wishbone bushes are in... your wishbones and all the stuff down there look pretty old and rusty - if the bushes are old and fooked, then they could potentially be allowing the wheel the movement it needs to rub... when i recently renewed all my bushes etc, i noticed tiny rub marks similar to that on the insides of my arches, but thankfully with no noticable wear on my tyres. it maybe that just on full lock (when parking etc) that the added pressure of the car not "floating" along as it does when going at speed (if that makes sense), means that the wheel is getting pushed back just far enough to rub. (nice tyres by the way! - hope they don't wear out on you too fast....)

short of thinners/petrol with a toothbrush as kev suggested, you could get them steam cleaned... hope it all goes back together nicely for you anyway!

glad to see you are making progress there buddy - it's so much more rewarding when you do it yourself (so much more rewarding on the wallet too!) tell me buddy - where did you get your metal crack pipe from, was it expensive?

haha - where abouts are you my friend - i can't really ask for the mates rates that i get very often as it's taking the piss - however if you are anywhere near hereford then i can put you onto them and you should get a better rate than normal... Any chance you could let me know the details of these guys please Pete? I've been living with stone chipped and patchy paint for far too long! :( Cheers[/quote:2gr9phhe] no worries mate - but i'll PM you - don't want too take the pi$$ by sending evryone on the forum to my friend!

hey there buddy if you've got the correct gun thingy with a fluid reservior underneath to use with your compressor, then you could try blasting some petrol down the galleries - sure to clean out most of the crap and will evaporate afterwards - cleaned my friends block in this very way using his spray/blasting gun type thing

the tiny spot of rust that i had on my a-pillar i got done for the price of a set of wiper blades and two alloy tax disk holders! - gotta love that :D

this is the thing though - thats £3k straight away, before i even think about buying all the bits for my r32 conversion that i WILL do! i will be running an r32 on dta standalone and i want o rebuild the engine before it goes in, so new cams, chains, guides, bearings, clutch, lightened flywheel, new KW V3's etc etc it's gonna cost me an absolute mint :( that however does not mean that i won't go ahead with it - but it's alot of money to spend on a car that still only sells for around £4-5k tops now...

haha - where abouts are you my friend - i can't really ask for the mates rates that i get very often as it's taking the piss - however if you are anywhere near hereford then i can put you onto them and you should get a better rate than normal...

i know! i would get them to do the subframe and rear axle despite the fact i've recently had them off and sprayed them. as for the wishbones - they are readily available and being as i've sprayed mine recently i can't be arsed with getting new bushes AGAIN just yet - but we'll see - it's going to be a while before anything happens yet - but i am soooooo tempted. i'm lucky enough to know some guys in a bodyshop - so i could get the whole thing filled/painted properly in an oven etc etc after it's been treated for less than £1k :)

i totally agree with that - however in all fairness you would strugle to find many rados out there now which have less rust than mine. as yandards says, there aren't many solid ones out there now and eventually every single one will be properly rusting away - mine has rust spots that you can't see, as i'm sure everyone's does . the point is that if left, then the rust will only get worse and worse and will leave pitting etc which will require more work than would have been required if it was treated early, which is why i'm thinking about it now. i was thinking the other day exactly what i could replace the corrado with (last car was an impreza wr1) and i really honestly can't think of anything that i would rather have - i absolutely love the rado, and i can see myself hanging onto it for ages. even if i do get like another impreza/evo - they are ridiculous to run every day and it would just go in the garage for the weekends. so, as i love the car as a daily driver so much, i really do see myself keeping it for a very long time, which would proabbly make the process worthwhile. with the protective coating they do (e-coat), they dip it in another chemical (i think from what i read), and it puts a very thin protective layer everywhere (nowhere is missed as it's dipped) that will resist salt spray for 1000 hrs - which basically means that once it's undersealed/sprayed it will never ever rust again unless you decide to re-arrange it with a tree/wall etc still unsure as it's a fair bit of work and not cheap (but pretty good value nonetheless when you think about it), but the end product........ hmmm - tricky one

i've heard good things about these people who have a car dipping process - both in magazines and through word of mouth. basically you take them your body shell and all panels (doors, bonnet, boot, wings etc) and they dip them in this chemical stuff which removes paint, filler, sound deadening, RUST - everything and just leaves you with the bare metal shell - pretty impressive stuff. i am seriously thinking about getting this done to my rado when i get back into the country in 6 months time - they also do a very good protective coating so the car will basically never rust again once you've got underseal/paint on it! the whole process including the protection will cost circa 1750 notes, then i can get it sprayed etc pretty cheap as i know some people... i was just wondering exactly what you guys knew about them/what experiences you have had - any input would be very welcome here's the site by the way - http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/ cheers again gents

if that's genuine vw then they will just be the same as the standard cast items that you have at the moment. cast stuff is renowned for cracking on less well made cars - but i've never heard of a corrado manifold cracking! - had mine off not so long ago and they are nicely made as far as standard manifolds go... are you sure it's not just the gaskets between the manifolds and the tops of the downpipe that haven't gone - i would be surprised if the manifolds/downpipe have properly failed...

thats right about the cat not being a requirement, but lets face it - there's no way that a corrado is going to pass the emissions test without one! you're right about the noise too - just another advantage of a cat. i have heard good things about the race cats, but if someone has said otherwise, then i guess its probably worth asking around before shelling out the funds....

i'm unsure if magnex also make the manifolds as well mate - sorry. unless you are planning on a remap and various other mods over time, then i would retain the cat. (unsure about the vr engine specifically) but engines in general like a little back pressure, also the cat will help with noise and it's a pain in the arse swapping it every time you want an MOT, and even if you know someone who is willing to pass it, then you still run the risk of PC Plod getting very upset when he stops you and inspects you car on the side of the road (which i have seen happen!). if you want a cat with longevity that you won't have to replace again, then buy a milltek sports cat. you would more or less get the benefits of a decat pipe then anyway, but still be legal and keep the engine a bit happier. they are more expensive, but well worth it IMO. i totally agree with you that standard systems are generally what i would go for, but honestly, i think the magnex is a far superior system (if just a tiny bit noisier). in all fairness though you really won't notice the noise difference unless you hoof it everywhere, in which case the car would still be noisy and attract the wrong sort of attention even with the standard system anyway!

my hoses were pretty tight - not overly so, but were as long as they should have been when i did mine. with the strut fully extended (i.e car jacked up with the wheel up off the ground) there was just enough length on my hoses to turn the wheels lock to lock without stretching/pulling on the hoses. i double checked the hoses for clearance with the wheels in the normal place with the car back on the deck and there was plenty of clearance - no potential rubbing issues etc

you can also use the hoses from a mk4 golf, which is what i did for my conversion...

if you are getting a new exhuast, you may want to consider a magnex - then you wouldn't have to worry about dropping the rear beam at all... i HATE noisy cars i really do - i swapped the induction kit that came on my car back for the standard airbox as i hated the chavvy induction roar. i've been really quite surprised how OE looking and quiet the magnex is though - obviously it's a little bit noisier than a standard one, but it really is only marginal - to be honest you can't even tell the difference at tick-over and it's only really on properly full chatter that you could tell, even then it's not roary/boomy or obtrusive, it actually sounds really nice and i'm a fussy git! if you bought a magnex then they have a join over the rear beam, so you would not need to remove anything - you could simply cut off your old exhaust and go from there... i'm running the magnex from the cat back, but as long as you retain your cat, you shouldn't really notice TOO much of a difference. a friend of mine made my day the other day when he said he thought it was a standard exhaust! (and in my opinion, the build quality of the magnex systems is spot on) good luck with it all whatever you choose anyway :)

yeah that does help cheers buddy :) it just seemed strange to me, as when you hold onto the boost pipe straight off the turbo, you can feel the high pressure and i thought that owing to such high pressure you would get a positive pressure in the inlet rather than a negative one... that does make sense though but i'm surprised that at low boost there is still negative pressure - but i will take your word for it! 205 gti's (and other's that had the sliding sunroof fitted) had a neat trick with their vacuum system - the seal that holds the sunroof shut and stops water getting in is self expanding - to open the sunroof you open a little switch and the vacuum from the engine sucks all the air out of the seal, allowing you to slide the sunroof - it's quite cool to watch (well for those who like that sort of thing anyway :? !) cheers again buddy - keep up the good work

hey again james, i've just been looking at your pics and i have a question which is probably a very silly one, but... the vacuum line that runs off the side of the inlet is well, a vacuum line! what sort of effect will it have being as you're going to be running FI - surely it will no longer be a vacuum line and therefore won't do it's intended job? i'm sure what you've done is right, as clearly you have been fiddling with engines alot longer than me. if you could explain though, then that would be appreciated. cheers :)