pete_griff

hey there i would love an oil recommendation if there's one going please.... Make - VW Model - Corrado Year - 1993 Engine size/type - 3.2 2006 mk5 golf r32 Any mods - air filter (bmc), exhaust/sports cats, remap - completely standard other than that Type of use - Fast road and occasional track Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used) - no idea what oil temps i will see. when running my vr engine occasionally i do long journeys at ridiculous times in the morning, which sees the car being driven quite hard for long periods of time - saw 136 degs oil temp several times. i'm currently toying with the idea of fitting an oil cooler, but i hear that the r32 lumps run quite cool anyway - any suggestions would be very welcome..... no idea as to the current oil used i'm afraid - guess standard stealer stuff. (have used mobil 1 10-50 supersyn motorsport stuff in the past and always been quite happy with that - think it's possibly a little thick for an r32 though, maybe 5-40?) also take it (within reason!) that money is no object, as it shouldn't be as far as oil is concerned... thanks very much Pete

i know the rear arb is definitely the same across the board, not sure about the front one though...

watching this with interest matey - keep up the good work :D

always love seeing pics of a strip/rebuild - good luck with whatever you plan to do with it.... (16 valves of pure pleasure! :grin: )

when i recently did all my running gear, i roughly lined up the wheels by eye, but didn't take a huge amount of time over it, as the alignment place i use was not too far away. on the drive there, the car wanted to throw itself off the road! it really squirmed in all sorts of directions until they did the alignment - after that it was spot on. i wouldn't worry about it - provided you have replaced everything correctly with new bits, it's not going to be anything else

i'll echo what blue95 has said here - polys (certainly from powerflex anyway) aren't as bad as you might think. i recently put some polys in my rear beam and they still flexed (even by hand) although granted it wasn't quite as much as the originals... they were certainly much easier to fit though and they aren't too expensive either - it is personal preference at the end of the day though i guess. good luck with getting them fitted anyway - the long bolt/washers technique is normally pretty straight forward

if the back end is jacked up, then the valve won't be extended it will be compressed, as the rear beam hangs down - look at the way the pivots work on the rear beam. he's right though in that you should make sure the valve is fully open. an easy way to do it is to disconnect the valve from from the rear beam and hang a set of mole grips or something off the pivoting arm, to make sure that the valve is fully open for bleeding

I'd buy genuine VW bushes, given the choice, since the rear axle bush is integral to the way the rear axle passive steer works. The thing that usually gets knackered is the brake load compensator valve, cos it's usually rusted onto one side or the other and needs cutting off. You may not have a choice about replacing it ..[/quote:b3twgsr1] fair one about the bushes. i will totally second that comment about the bias valve as well - getting mine off involved a hammer and chisel, 4.5 inch angle grinder, then a 9" angle grinder, and then some mole grips!

sounds stupid, but have you made sure that all the sensors were correctly plugged back in after you finished your conversion. when i stripped down my running gear recently i got it all back together then had a flap as the abs light came on even though i had fitted all new sensors - upon inspection i realised i had been a muppet and forgotten to reconnect one of the abs plugs! failing that, check all the sensors themselves are clean and free of debris (as they tend to easily pick shit up, being magnetic) and that you haven't accidentally damaged one of them during your transplant... as for the feeling of your pedal, if you have an abs pump (which you obviously do), then that also has bleed nipples located on the top of it - make sure you bleed the system using these and right up to and including the nipple on the master cylinder if necessary. from reading previous posts (see the 312mm brake fitment guide in the wiki), corrado's with an abs pump can be a pain in the arse to bleed and you have to do a really thorough job

you can get the bushes themselves from AVS for about 20 quid if i remember roughly off the top of my head- think they are probably even cheaper than that in all honesty... the cost comes in the labour as everyone else says. also if your car is old and hasn't had work on it in the area before, there's a chance that your brake lines could be corroded to buggery, which means that they will be likely to break when being removed. perhaps it wouldn't be a bad time to change them anyway if the rear beam is coming off - save having another job on your hands in the future...

cheers for that - i knew about that; a friend had an integra type r and was thinking about getting an exedy for that, but unfortunately didn't in the end. i have to confess i only found out the other day that they don't just make things exclusively for jap stuff. i have heard some good reports on them, but looking on their site, their pressure plates look so much cheaper than the helix equivalent - it's a job to know if they are worth it, unless i can talk to someone who has used one... thanks again all the same :thumbleft:

has nobody on here got an exedy clutch? you can get them in the uk as well, just they are cheaper to import from the states. if anyone knows anything about them, some input would be really appreciated...

aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh - thanks very much :thumb right:

does anyone know whic gearboxes came with which cars? as far as i know they are all called the 02a gearbox, but i know that the g60 box has different ratios to the vr box for example. can anyone say which boxes are the same between which cars (looking at a 1.8 16v box to go in my vr you see - and i want it to be at least as long as the vr box, which i doubt it will be....)

good effort james - hope you get it all back together asap matey, sure you will :D quick question.... i've literally just thought of it now - bit random - a while ago in your thread someone (i think it was lizard racing) mentioned premature bearing wear on your turbo due to the gyroscope type effect of not having the turbo facing straight forwards in relation to the car.... i used to have an impreza wr1, so i know a little about the scooby tuning scene - lots of people wishing to run bigger snails go for the twisted turbo kit on their imprezas; this allows their larger turbo to clear the master cylinder in the same sort of way that you did. i've not yet heard of any impreza owner suffering premature bearing failure because of this, but i can certainly see why it would happen in theory due to the gyroscope effect... interesting.................

i've been looking at an exedy clutch for sale in the states and it's pretty bloody cheap for a performance clutch. - item number; looky - 150244485765 i was going to buy a fidanza flywheel off the same guys (gripforce). has anyone had any experience of these exedy clutches before?... (i have heard of them before, but that's about it) personally i'm a massive advocate of helix, but being as this one is so cheap, i think it's worth a look. it will cope with the torque of my r32 engine as it will be running nearly standard; just with a bmc, manifold/cats and a remap - probably IVO 270bhp... so the clutch should cope as it can take 300 ft/lbs and as standard the mk5 r32 puts out 236 ft/lbs. any further info anyone could give me would be really appreciated. i've asked gripforce if the clutches come properly balanced from exedy and i'm currently waiting on a reply. (i can get it balanced obviously, just wondering if it came that way). eagery waiting to hear what you gents have to say....... cheers

I don't think the majority of said idiots know what either of those activities are..... If all the world's petrol were to suddenly evaporate over night, I honestly don't think my life would suffer that much. Work is 15 miles away, which I could cylce no probs. Shops are local. My family are reasonably local. When I think about it, do I actually need a car at all? To damn right i do :D i totally agree - i have to say it's also very surprising to find on car enthusiast web sites, just how many are actually prepared to walk and cycle places and leave their cars at home! a credit to all who love cars if you ask me - guess we just appreciate what they do for us far more than most :D

i know that the r32 in both mk4 and mk5 forms is not fsi. i was reading the other day and vw did produce an fsi'd 3.2 24v shortly afterwards - i know this newer engine has been fitted to the eos. it has slightly more torque and better fuel economy than the mk5 r32, but differences other than that, i have no idea. but no the mk4 and 5 are not fsi, so whoever told you that is talking bollards, unless of course, you don't in fact have an r32 engine...

my friend has got all halfords pro stuff and i have to agree - most of it is actually pretty impressive for the money you pay for it considering its got a lifetime guarantee. my toolkit consists 99% of signet stuff, which i'm very happy with - not broken anything yet :) and yeah those ratchet screwdrivers are lovely - i've got the signet equivalent and its really good. also it looks identical to my friend-s snap-on jobby, but it's probably not quite as nice (maybe)

all snap on stuff :shock: very very nice. yeah fair one, i was just going on what i've seen in general, but what you said makes total sense, cheers

the reason more expensive sockets don't have so many points round the edges is that they won't round off the head anywhere near as easily as the multipoint jobbies (as far as i'm aware)

if you have expensive sockets, then chances are they are six-sided/faced inside (on the bit that turns the bolt). cheaper sockets (as a rule) have loads of little cut outs that go round the outside, just like the bolt yoiu are looking at. i you get hold of the right size socket with all the little cut-outs round the edge, rather than one that looks like the shape of a normal bolt head when you look inside, then that should do the job for you. sorry i know that's a really unclear way of describing what i mean, but i'm not sure how else to say it.....

i have a sealey jobby - can lift up to 1 ton (i think) and cost me about 100 sheets delivered (possibly 120 - can't remember off hand). matt is right, they are a pain in the arse to store/move around, but if you have got the space for one, then they are well worth it. i thought i would only use mine once in a blue moon - i've used it on my own cars and helped friends more times than i can remember with it since. very useful bit of kit

i thought that it was a good price, just checking. good job really....... i've just agreed to buy it! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D i didn't know that storm would charge that to supply/fit the emerald. that is tempting, but it's getting delivered with absolutely everything, so i think i'll just run the standard ecu etc, mapped for the car obviously - almost certainly by PSI... (i'm going to be itching for the rest of the time i'm out of the country now! - i want to get back and get stuck into it! :tongue: )

what's a good price for an r32 engine? i have the chance to buy one from a mk5 with loom, pedal sender, ecu, downpipe, cats lambdas etc (think that's got everything covered that i need for the conversion). it has done 12000 miles and the bloke wants 1600 sheets for it delivered, but i might be able to beat him down to 1500... seems like a good price to me - any comments?...