pete_griff

cool, no worries. enjoy your stag do buddy :drinking: - you sure sunday will be long enough to recover after a stag do?!? :pukeright: :norty: have a good time my friend :) Pete

nice one karl - that's an unbelievable bargain on those seats buddy - good for you. they are really similar to the ones that i bought for mine, hope they colour up ok for you. whats the eta on getting the dta back from the phirm? you should just be able to plug it in and go then shouldn't you? by the way i'm back in the country now as of last night :dance: so i will try and get in touch with you just to make sure we are both happy with whats happening with the brakes etc. shouldn't be too long for you now anyway - i bet you are getting withdrawl symptoms from not driving the car! :)

you'll be fine - you just need to drive it much harder to really make sure you've burned all the crap off! :twisted:

any chance this thread could be stickied - some very useful info on here thanks very much for your efforts dom - top man :thumb right:

looking good there buddy. i'll second that "unpimping" the car is by far the best thing you have done yet - it looked... well... very chav! - glad you have seen sense, it looks much better now. unsure about the grille - but can't pass judgement until it's fitted i guess. glad things are coming together for you now - hope you get it all sorted soon :)

other than when going silly fast an in error, i've never hammered on the anchors in the rado mid corner - clearly i will have to try this once it's all sorted! :) the 306/205 that i had were great, you didn't even need to brake at all; just hammer it round a bend and lift smartly off the throttle - guaranteed smile every time :D

hey all just my 2p from what i know... the corrado is a naturally understeery car, as VW set up nearly all their cars like that to eire on the side of caution for the everyday driver as they don't want people unwittingly oversteering through hedges! like mr cheesewire says any rear steer would be gleaned from the flexibility in the bushes and nowhere else - anything about toe-adjustable bearings etc is cobblers, they are fixed on the stub axle and the stub axle is fixed to the rear arm with no room for movement anywhere. even then there's really not much difference you would notice from those bushes as the amount they would actually allow passive rear steer is not much. it is possible to get the tail out on a standard rado, but only when being silly - i've only managed it a few times and it was not intentional, just an "oh dear i'm really going too fast for this corner!" and backing off/using the anchors at the wrong time - but you really have to be going fast/doing silly things unless you fit a rear anti-roll bar etc which will make it a bit easier to get the backside out more safely lower speeds - something i have yet to experience, but soon will once i've got mine back on the road :D the only car i know of (i'm sure there are more) with proper "passive" rear wheel steer is the pug 306 (and citroen zx as they use the same shell). the rear stub axles (if i remember correctly) actually had bushes on their mounts onto the rear beam, allowing them to move very slightly and track the rear of the car in relation to the front - it felt a litle weird and unsettled at first when driving a 306 hard, but once you are used to it, it's actually really nice and will allow you to take corners faster. obviously it also helps with the lots of lovely lift-off oversteer on tap with the 306 when asked for. preludes, skylines (and again i'm sure a few others that i don't know about) have 4 wheel steering where they actually have pivots/mountings for track rods etc built onto the rear struts for their intended purpose. this effect is only used though when the cars are travelling at low speeds i think - they are then electronically prevented from using the rear steering over a certain speed, probably owing to stability issues. not sure if that helps you any more than what other people have already said - just my 2p like i said :)

boost monkey is right, you have to bleed it at both the master and the slave. but the clutch system is separate from the rest of the braking system - as long as the reservoir is topped up, (as both brakes and clutch go off the same reservoir as i'm sure you know) you shouldn't have any problems. if you've already changed the slave and the flexi hose going to it, then the only thing left really is the master. have you wound the bleed nipples all the way out to check there's no crap in there preventing a decent seal when you tighten them up? - that's the only other thing i could think of... oh, very doubtful, but is there any crap around the pivot on the pedal box - could possibly be responsible, but much less likely...

from me! :D - see the link above

irwins are going to be your best friend by the sounds of things mate - i had a few head studs snap on me and 4 of the 6 that hold the downpipes onto the manifolds. i also had the exact same headstud sheer on me as well - right at the top just like yours, i got that out with irwins. like you said before smack the top of it with a hammer to wake it up a bit, plenty of plus gas then get the irwins onto it as close as you can to the block and make sure when you wind then you keep them as flat as possible. some nice newish irwins with some sharp teeth gripped on there tightly should sort you out buddy :) (irwin vise-grips is what your after if you don't know what to ask for - make sure they say vise-grip on the side of them....)

i would say yes, it makes it run better - more powerful and more economical normally too. it all depends on price obviously though... i would say that though as i currently have a chip for sale for a more or less standard VR6 - viewtopic.php?f=13&t=70351

:lol: now that's tempting fate when you own a corrado!!! :lol: hope all goes well my friend - it's always the same that costs seem to mount up to far more than you originally hoped when doing these sorts of things! good luck as usual, hope this cures your problem :)

definitely agree it's worth getting it skimmed don't forget to retrieve the little white sealing o-ring on the side of the head that provides the seal for the oil to go to the tensioner bolt - mine stayed on the side of the head in exactly the same way when i did it (as shown in your pics). after that i purposefully left it where i would notice it so i didn't forget to put it back in on reassembly! good luck sorting it all out matey. one of my bolts snapped when i took mine off as well - not funny! - you will have some fun getting that off :? my upper tensioner wasn't quite that bad, but mine was missing one of the rivets, the other one was still there. i just left mine and pretended i didn't see it as the engine wasn't required to live that long anyway. i'm really miffed now as to what my problem could be as yours seems exactly the same as mine, but i've done my head gasket and i'm fairly confident it's sealed as it should - i haven't done a compression test since, maybe i should... really hope it all works out for you anyway buddy :)

liking your motor a lot my friend - looks very clean inside and out. personally i'm not such a big fan of dark wheels, but those super t's look better than the RX's as the RX's look too bling - if the RX's were all silver (like mine :norty: ) then they would probably look better - but i guess i'm just biased... lovely motor all the same :)

although i totally agree that the pump can't be run dry at all

i think he meant by turning the pump by hand when on the car and plumbed in, before you put the ribbed belt on.... (not certain) seems like your being very kind to it doing that - not heard of doing that before and i'm not sure how necessary it is, as provided you give the fluid a minute or two to run down, then the fluid should be already at the pump anyway on startup simply by gravity from running down from the reservoir....

i'll second what supercharged says - when i did mine, i had the engine running with the car on stands for quite a while and turned the wheels a lot more than 3 times lock to lock before it stopped squealing - it will sort itself out, you just need to give it time and keep an eye on the reservoir while it's doing that. the kindest way is just to have it running with the car in the air and keep on winding it lock to lock until the sound goes away, which may take longer than you think (or it did for me anyway) hope it all works out for you buddy

was that including postage etc - if so i may well be tempted if i don't find a quaife in the mean time.... did you just email the company direct off their site?

hey there buddy - sorry to hear you are having all these problems - i don't know what it is about suppliers and delivery companies! - my r32 engine was rattling round in the back of a lorry for over a week because they couldn't be arsed to pick up the phone and find out where it was supposed to be delivered too! - turns out they broke a bracket that is part of the aircon pump - i'm not actually that bothered as i won't be using it - but i shall be claiming for as much as i can just for their outright idleness and incompetance. admittedly my dad's place where it was being delivered is in the middle of nowehere but no other delivery company has had problems finding it, and then they had the phone number the whole time anyway - it makes you wonder what these people actually do while they are at work! that's good you've got kev's old dta - i wondered who he sold it to, guess now i know - at least it's been proof tested for you! good luck with getting everything sorted as usual matey - don't forget to keep us all informed :D

hey there buddy. well after i changed my head gasket it ran really really well for a couple of weeks - the best it ever has actually. then it started to missfire again slightly - still haven't traced the fault. i don't have vag-com and it's a pain in the arse to find somewhere that could scan it for me - would be nice to know before i take the engine out though. it's bloody frustrating - the head gasket was just starting to go - confirmed by the bloke who skimmed the head for me, but it looks like that may not have been the cause of the problem after all! - and yes it's bloody frustrating if i didn't say that already! even more so as i'm stuck out here and can't do anything about it! very interested to see what becomes of yours buddy - good luck with it all Pete edit: - another thing, my friend who is looking after it for me took the car up the road the other day and said that it was perfect - plenty of power and didn't missifre once!... the saga continues!

Think thats an early VW gauge panel... mine came with one til i changed it for the all in one late panel. mine also came with the car when i bought it - i have to find a way of securing it a bit better though; it doesn't do it very often, but occasionally it jumps off it's mounts on the bottom - just annoying really. i didn't know there was an early and a late panel.... anyone fancy doing a swap?!

that's ok - it was £1500 pretty much what they go for - i'm sure i could have beaten the guy down a bit. when i spoke to him though he sounded like an enthusiast - told him what i was doing with it and he knew all the bits etc that i would need, so to save any agro i agreed to pay him the full amount. he was real sound about it and said if i need anything else then to give him a shout which is they way i want it should i get into difficulties. plus it's really low mileage so i didn't mind paying full whack. i shouldn't need anything else as it came with everything - all loom components required, drive by wire pedal sensor thingy, clocks, keys - etc etc basically everything i will need to sort it.

ok, ignore my last! - sorry :ignore:

to get the splash guard off you have to undo the four bolts which hold the stub axle on - see the second pic down in this thread viewtopic.php?f=23&t=70702&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a you'll have to pull the little round metal seal-guard thingy off to get to the bolts, but i wouldn't worry about re-using it or sourcing another one, as if the splash guard is on, then it really doesn't do much provided your seal is in good order. if i remember correctly then the splash guard sits on top of the stub axle, so you won't actually have to move the stub axle (it will probably remain on the rear beam due to age), the guard or whats left of it should come off after you've undone all 4 bolts. (make sure you have a decent socket on there and it's a good fit as well, as no doubt the bolts are old and you don't want to be playing silly buggers rounding those bolts - that would cause more issues. i ordered some new bolts from the stealers when i did mine) as for sourcing another splash guard - if vw don't do them then you are best off talking to a breaker. there should be plently of cars with them on as the rear end was similar on golf 2's and passats etc i think... hope that helps :)

maybe an injector?..... :?