Album56

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfIMG_0239.JPG[/attachment:ks4wzwot]' alt='attachment:ks4wzwot]'>IMG_0238.JPG[/attachment:ks4wzwot] See the yellow & black plastic "valve" right behind the cam cover breather in the pipe from ISV to boost return, it does look like the same "valve" as the the one that can be seen to the brake servo pipe?? If its only susposed to let air flow one way then its busted & I'll be poping along to the dealers again. Strange that other G60s havent got this, I'm certain that the car hasnt been modified in any way since leaving the factory & is completely stock. Mick

Would love to upload 2 pictures I have taken but get message "invalid file type" , files are 2mb JPGs, checked FAQs but no obvious reason for this problem, I have uploaded images before without problem.

Can anyone tell me what the yellow plastic item is downstream of the ISV that sits between the ISV & the boost return pipe, it has a very small bore pipe with a blue line on it that loops out & back?? I am investigating why my hot idle is a bit erratic 850-1000rpm, & while I had the ISV off which incidentally looks clean & tests ok with multimeter wondered what the yellow & black plastic item is? If its a valve then its not working very well as I could suck & blow air thro it. Help please

ISV will be off & cleaned next week, hope that fixes it cos a new one is a lot of money. Cheers Mick

Replaced Digifant/ECU relay & fuel pump relay, they needed to be replaced after 140k miles but hasnt cured wandering hot idle, starting from cold everything is as it should be, 1000rpm idle for a couple of minutes when I stop at drive & lights at the end of the road. Then as it starts to warm it slows to 850rpm & is ok until there is a bit of heat under the bonnet & I stop in traffic or at lights & then the idle will climb to 1000rpm again & vary up & down anywhere between 850-1000rpm, something under the bonnet is being affected by heat. Beginning to wonder if the blue temp sender is faulty again, was replaced about 3 years ago VW part but it did appear to test ok with multimeter or maybe the idle microswitch is going HR when it gets warm. Gonna take a bit more tracking down methinks.. Mick

Found that the ECU plug disconnects quite easily by pushing the clip at the back of the plug away from you towards the back of the car at the same time pivoting the plug on the plastic lug at the front. Replacement is the same in reverse, insert the front lug & then pivot pushing the back of the plug firmly home & the metal clip snaps into place. Have given the pins a good spry of contact cleaner although I didnt see any obvious corrosion. Will take it out for a run later to see if theres any change. Mick

Thanks for that, yes I have been thinking I should get new fuel pump & ECU relays as these have never been replaced, assuming you can still get these from the dealers. Mick

Cheers Yan, I'll try the ECU plug tomorrow now I know how its supposed to come off. As far as I'm aware the timing has never been adjusted or touched in 18yrs so its probably still at factory setting because she has always run well & started 1st time every time. Could be the idle screw or CO pot adjustments required tho as these have been changed. I read that to make adjustments assuming the timing is already ok, get the engine hot, disconnect & plug breather on cam cover, then disconnect the blue temp sender which puts the ECU in adjustment mode & blip the throttle to over 3000rpm 3 times then adjust the idle screw to get steady 950 - 1000rpm . Reconnect the blue temp sender & breather pipe & the engine should settle down to the correct idle speed. I'll check the ECU plug & give it a squirt of contact cleaner & then give the ISV a clean with carb cleaner then if necessary try the set up procedure. Thanks again Mick

Anybody have tips on how to release the ECU plug?

Bump

Having a nigling idle problem with my 92 G60, after idling at 850rpm when hot faultlesly for years it now varies anywhere between 850 & 1000rpm & varies up & down randomly when hot, runs perfectly apart from that. Not a big problem I know but could point to something developing, seemed to start after I had replaced the Bosch plugs, dizzy rotor & cap, all vacuum pipes have been replaced as has the idle screw, lamda probe (Bosch) & blue temp sender all ok. All earths checked & tightened, idle microswitch on TB tests ok, all electrical plugs/sockets under the bonnet sprayed with switch cleaner apart from the multi-pin ECU connector Which I cant get off to check. I have read in a couple of threads there is a piece of black plastic which slides forward to release the plug but I cant move anything even tried levering with flat bladed screwdriver but didnt want to break anything so didnt use brute force, also there appears to be a spring clip at the other end of the plug almost out of sight does this have to be released? When I have checked the ECU plug/socket & sprayed with switch cleaner if the problem still persists I'll take the ISV off & clean/lubricate it. Any help/suggestions much appreciated. Mick

The cat sits under there & gives off a lot of heat, heatshield may be missing. That darned cat!

Thats one of the 4 cam bearing heads ? ? ? :eek:

Broke the oil feed pipe to the charger at the head end on my G60, rubber had gone hard & then fractured inside the braiding. New one ordered, should arrive tomorrow & I will fit it.

Rouge = Red, I think you mean rogue = unwanted

This refers to the above problem from the CCA site:- Notchy Transmission, Reverse Gear Binding - All G60 (90-92), Early VR6 (92) - why: do not have the clutch with Cd or Ni plated splines (many had their 2nd gear syncro die) - solution: get the Cd or Ni Coated Clutch The clutch discs that came with the early cars have a black anodized like finish on the splined hub. The new style discs have a bright nickel plated hub that slides on the mainshaft easier. The problem is that when the clutch is released, the old style discs would not slide away from the flywheel, which causes hard shifting and grinding. This can damage the syncros and the gear sets if not corrected. Clutch jobs are much cheaper than trans repairs.

My 92 G60 had problem when hot, would get stuck in reverse & take a lot of force to move gear lever. I was advised in 1993 that it was a known problem due to the clutch not moving freely when hot & the dealer offered to fit a modified clutch free of charge which they did & have not had the problem since. Dont know if this was done as a re-call by VW, I have a feeling it might have been, long time ago now. Has your car ever had the clutch replaced early in its life?

Hi Slim, poor idle can be caused by any one of several problems but the blue temp sensor at the front is a known fairly common cause & is available from VW dealer & is easily changed when engine is cold you will not loose much if any coolant, new sealing ring also essential. You mention hose leaking but dont mention if its a vacuum/breather or coolant, vacuum hoses with air leaks can cause the problems you describe. Your problem with wipers & dials cutting out/resetting could be ignition switch related but its worth checking your battery connections & main earths which are to the chassis just behind the battery & the bell housing. make sure they are clean & tight. Hope this helps Mick

My renewal from Privilege for stock G60, 6k miles pa, £500 excess, 6yrs NCB, value £1500 was £330. Used compare the market, got same deal for £198 from Performance Direct. Well chuffed...

The last V power I bought was 99Ron according to the pump...

This thread you might find useful info: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77996&p=922993&hilit=timing+light+procedure#p925040 Mick

My G60 had a similar problem & although I could never see where the water was going I could smell hot coolant when I opened the bonnet with a hot engine & the coolant level would go down over 2 or 3 weeks. Eventually I saw water dripping under the car & it turned out to be the flange seal on the end of the head. Bought new flange with O ring & now its more coolant tight than its been for years. It seems coolant had been seeping out when under pressure/hot for years as steam vapour but was never bad enough until that day to show up. So head flange seals or thermostat housing would be my first places to check.

Also known as the Volkswagen compact alarm system on some insurance quote sites, what a palaver to insure an old car thats worth £1500 at most...

After a bit of hunting around on this forum it looks like its a Scorpion 5000, lets see if thats listed amongst the hundreds on the online insurance page. :)

Need to know the model number of Scorpion alarm/immobiliser which was factory fitted to my 92 G60 to get insurance quote. The VAG name is Quantum & its a remote control with central locking interface & interior protection. VAG part no 998 VAG 138 is quoted on original leaflet with Scorpion mark but no model no. Have pulled rubber cover up to try to find model number but just shows FH GB & guarantee info. Any help would be much appreciated.