Andy Brookes

Hi All, My mate wants a quick shift like mine. I bought mine from a guy on the forum called Nobby if I remember correctly, but can't find find him or any posts by him. So is anyone making these at the mo??? I know you can buy the B&M one from TSR, but they always seem to get bad write ups. Also know I could get one from Diesel Geek in the US, but that could take a while. So any other ideas? Cheers Andy

Master cylinder is not normally needed, but could be worth it as it will only take a minute. Yep, just ignition on. The pump only runs when the pressure needs topping up, so you will only hear it when first turning on the ignition for a couple of seconds and when you open one of the bleed valves.

You can normally do it with the wheels on, but if its the first time its been done for a while I would take the wheels off and clean the nipples up and loosen them and then nip back up. That way you have plenty of room to loosen them without fear of searing them off.

The way I do it is to use an easyblead kit (had it for about 15 years), start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work towards the closest. Remember to have the ignition on so that the ABS pump can keep running.

Have rewaxed underneth the battery with some cavity wax from halfords. The rest is staying clean and polished. Very strange with your PAS, don't what to suggest, except for suck on the end of the pipe!!!! Bushes were worse than I thought, lucky I had those big washers etc about from when I did the syspension bushes on the g60. Its the only way to get them in. Easy with the right tools. I'll leave the selling to 16VG60, happy to make stuff like that for me and run the risk if it should fail, but don't fancy making them for others. The cross member bushes act as the compliant bit now so no worries on stressing anything.

2CC reservior empted itself when I disconnected the pipes. Have you still got the cap on??? Maybe the air hole in the cap is blocked and therefore the fluid is staying put. Thanks for that Kev, puts my mind at rest, No noises from the pump today so guess all is ok. Few more pics attached, 2CC helpful one for you when you come to install those new bushes in the front cross member.

All finished last night. The power steering pump is now running nice and quietly. Got a pair of battery clamps from Maplins (thanks for the tip Lee) for a bargain price of £4.99 each, nice gold plated chunkers! Drove to work this morning with an oil temp of no higher than 100, used to run at 118, so the oil cooler is definatly doing its thing. Also the water temp is down to 85 to 90, that used to run at 100 to 105. So feel much happier with those temps. Also very pleased with the solid front engine mount I had made. Has taken all the backlash out of the drive train, has improved the handling as the engine is no longer slopping about. Well recommended mod.

Darren, Do you do a kit with the rear lines for mk4 calipers? Got a pair of Leon rear calipers sat in the garage and must get round to fitting them.

Opp's not that clamp, the terminal clamps, as in positive and negative. Had a tarp rigged up, so wasnt to bad! You would be proud of the inner wings lee, took an hour so with heat gun and white spirit to remove all the wax. They now look spanking. Have also re-wrapped all the wiring looms with high temp self amalgimating tape, that has really tided things up as all the fabric tape was disintigrating and looked a right mess.

Just finished for the day, still need to pop on the bumper etc, but got her running with no fluids spilling out anywhere, so pretty pleased. Two probs though, power steering pump is making a horrible noise, which did get quieter the longer it ran, so hopefully that will go away. The other prob is the battery clamps, they are just about to give up. Where is a good place to get new clamps. The original VW are a nice design except for the way they clamp and I can see them being expensive from VW. I'll post more pics tomorrow.

My cross member, the rad support came back with a couple of small blast holes in it, but not enough to worry me as they are hidden in the depths. At least it wont rush anymore. Took them to Swanick Grit Blast in Botley (near work), they did a nice job and only 2 day turnaround. Just finished assembling the new rad with fans etc and putting in the new crossmember bushes (what a bitch of a job!). Should have most of the front end back together tomorrow.

Very pleased with the finish. Think I have everything I need to get it back together tomorrow. Going to be a long day I think!

Got the Rad support, front cross member and fan shroud back from the powercoaters today. What a difference from the rusty mess that was! As you can see my garage looks more like the local VW parts dept at the moment!

Just ordered some over the phone at £14 something a quart, with delivery tomorrow. They gave discount as I was a member of the CCGB.

not quite that far! everthing bar though..... minus the water pump...bet that goes within the next couple of months! But got to stop somewhere otherwise I may as well replace the engine too!

That photo is very kind Lee! It will be a lot cleaner come the weekend though. Very strange this bulging thing, had a closer look inside the rad tonight and think the coolant system has seen a mix of G11 & G12 at some point as there is a layer of sticky scum inside the rad. Also noticed it inside the old hoses, so glad I'm replacing the whole system now. Not one piece of the original cooling system will be left as I have already replaced the aux pump, expansion tank and the heater matrix was replaced a couple of years ago along with the oil cooler.

was going to change the bearing until I found that the pulley has a nick out of it, so need to buy a new assy now, but cant find the bugger on etka, anyone know where it is or have a pt no that I can quote at VW?

It was the rad switch that I was talking about that was crusty..... but so is the rad support, that along with the fan metalwork and the front subframe thingy is hitting my local powder coaters tomorrow! How thin is the paint that VW put on these things.

recieved this morning, nice owrk, cheers

looks neater than it really was, but that matt is great as its easy to wipe it all up! Going to be a expensive job this as I have decided to renew all the temp sensors as the fans has been coming on for no reason when I switch off the ignition. The switch for the overun fans is so crusty that I cant read the part number, so having difficultly identifing it (see other post). All the switches are the originals so may as well replace them. Thank goodness for Corrado Club discount at my local VW dealer. Have decided to go for an original VW rad rather than a GSF one, I think the current one is a pattern rad and that has bulged, spoke to GPC (very helpful) and he advised that the pattern rad are not as good as the VW ones. Think this job is going to run into the weekend. But hopefully it will sort out the cooling system which has always worried me. PS, only took an hour to strip the front off including the rad. Makes it very easy to do all the other jobs that need doing while I have it apart. Cheers Andy

Just doing the same thing....... Part numbers are 025 906 041A for the blue one, engine management. 357 919 369F for the black one with green paint stripe (this may have come off for age) Now I'm stuck on the yellow one, as the version of etka lists a blue and white 4 pin sensor pt no 701 919 369D. Could anyone confirm pt no's for me?

Hi All, Not posted for a while as not much being going on.....but the VR overheated this morning on the way to work. Thermostat had been playing up xmas, sticking open, but it stuck shut this morning. So have taken a duvet day and look what I have done. While doing the thermostat I thought I would fit my new samco's, fit the oil cooler that has been sitting in the garage since the summer and sort the rusting rad support out. So its now stripped of its front end. Got to order a few parts including a new rad as its bulging in a few places!!! Very strange. Anyone else had this before??

not yet, but only ordered on the 20th so not expecting it yet. Cheers Andy

There is an oring in there, undo the bolts and all should be clear. The plastic maybe cracked so best to have a look over. Cheers Andy

PS, my VR had been losing a little coolant for a while, so i'm guessing this o ring had not been seated correctly for the corrisponding amount of time. On inspection the old oring was very lose and baggy, the new o ring on the new cap in tight.