G-Lad

Satutrday 25th about 10a, at the junction of Porchester road and Carlton hill in Nottingham. I was the white VR6 honking at you. You were the blue car with dark wheels and a badgeless grill.

Ok, seems like a good plan! How does the following look? 07:00 - Notts contingent head off from Daves16v's house 08:30 - Rendez vous at M40 Jct 11, Esso Garage in Banbury. OX16 4SZ 10:00 - Get to Brooklands in time for a cuppa and a bit of polishing. Davewort, are you OK to meet at the M40 rendez vous location? It's a bit of a leap west.. Here's the mappage: http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?saddr=Sandiacre,+Derbyshire,+UK&daddr=OX16+4SZ+to:Brooklands+Museum,+Weybridge&hl=en&ll=52.140231,-0.961304&spn=1.830611,3.532104&sll=52.139505,-0.847325&sspn=1.830611,3.532104&geocode=FSOYJwMdQlXs_yl3P3yBJel5SDF0UoQvYYJDRw%3BFW-CGgMdnuvr_ykFz5omWiZ3SDHBDhuv9zBa6w%3BFambDwMdX-r4_yGaeUBiGMyWMA&mra=ls&t=m&z=8 Chris :geek:

Badges defo get my vote! :D

Ok, no worries. I will let you know of any other events i'm heading to, so you can show it off :D

Seeing how many others have signed up for this now is getting me really excited! Brooklands is brilliant at the best of times, so with 50+ Corrados on the bank it's going to be amazing!! That's a lot of names to faces that Im going to be rubbish at remembering ;) Fingers crossed for good weather and clean roads for the trek down from sunny Nottingham...

Looking good, Kate! ...Do you think it's looking good enough for a group photo shoot down at Brooklands? I do! :D There's a little group of us East Midlands folk convoying down to the CCGB National Day on Sunday. Meeting in sunny stabo area at 07:30, arriving in Weybridge for 10:00am ish. If you don't know Brooklands, I can assure you it's ace! Expect about 50+ Corrados getting lined up on the historic banked track (subject to good weather) plus a load of bikes and aeroplanes to look at in the museum. The only minor niggle is that you need to sign up / renew membership for CCGB via the website in advance (http://www.corradoclub.org/ccgb16/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=89&Itemid=163), however if you do then the photoshoot is paid for by the club (a tenner, paid for. Bargain!). You will have to pay a tenner to get into the museum, but all told it's still a good deal, I think :) If you fancy it, take a look at this thread for convoy details: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?70805-National-Day-M1-Convoy-South If you do sign up and want to join in, just pipe up on this thread to tell the guys you're new but that you'd like to join in: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?59944-National-Day-2012-Sunday-20-May-Brooklands (The people to tell are Tempest, KipVW, Butterfly or CazzaVR) (please excuse the thread highjack!!!) ;)

Thanks Dave, can you tell that I got a bit side tracked ;) Proposal: 07:30 - leave M1 Jct 25 (Sandiacre / Nottingham area) 08:40 - Arrive at Newport Pagnell services (between Jct 15 and 14) 08:50 - Leave Newport Pagnell services (hang around until 09:00 latest) 10:05 - Arrive Brooklands Museum https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?saddr=Sandiacre&daddr=Unknown+road+to:Brooklands+Museum,+Weybridge&hl=en&ll=52.382306,-0.186768&spn=3.641469,7.064209&sll=52.922824,-1.280894&sspn=0.014049,0.027595&geocode=FSOYJwMdQlXs_yl3P3yBJel5SDF0UoQvYYJDRw%3BFQe8GgMdM5b0_w%3BFambDwMdX-r4_yGaeUBiGMyWMA&oq=Sandiacre&mra=ls&t=m&z=7 ...how does that sound? It's a bit of an early start, I know! Chris

Hiya Tom! If you've got the parts for a 288mm front brake upgrade going begging, i'd be pleased to take them of your hands! No worries that the disks are warped. I'll fit new disks and pads.. please give me a pm or text if they're on offer still :)

I use a Ring RSC4 bike trickle charger. It works fine on my 60+Ah car battery. They're on Amazon for about 35quid.

Make sure you give it an under body wash to clear any remaining road salt - it will attract loads of water if the car is left standing with salt on it. The winter's salt is only just starting to wash away this week, here in Nottingham. I'd suggest getting underneath to treat any rusty bits on the wishbones, subframe, front cross member etc. I use Kurust and then spray tons of a wax based sealant on top. Dinitrol is the best but waxoyl underbody spray is nearly as good and more easy to buy a can of, from Halfords...

Have a read of this: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/the_corrado_buying_guide_checklist.html My top tip is to prioritise bodywork. Mechnical things can be cheaply fixed but a rotten rear quarter for example will be a financial burden, imo. Check under the boot carpet, especially on the driver's side, as the filler neck aperture rots. Stick your arm up in the wheel arch to see if it's full of mud. It probably will be, so ideally ask your mate to hose it out. Check again for holes with your fingertips and also check those carpets again in the boot. A 1.8 16v has the bulletproof KR engine so reliability will be good if it's had regular oil changes. Listen for noisy tappets and make sure you're happy with the gearbox, and second gear in particular. Just look out for those dodgy electrical parts like windows, sunroof, spoiler, and the 20year old bits of plastic that love to snap off! Passenger side damp carpets may mean blocked drain holes or worse a leaky heater which means a full dash-out job. good luck! Chris

...so let me get this straight: My sunroof tilts just fine, but has become very slow and a bit shuddery about half way through the slide motion. I should go and get a known-good (possibly a late spec Mk3) motor and simply slot that in to try it, before mucking about with the mechanism. This is because the original motor can lose its torque, even if it seems to still run in the two speeds. Yes? Chris

Hey folks, sorry I had to cut and run. It was good to get psyched up for a year of Corrado events, so hopefully I'll see y'all around soon :) Chris

Are any of you fellow M1 corridor peeps planning a convoy? I'm currently planning to leave central Nottingham at about 11am, probably going via M69 and Fosse Way, or M42 if any convoyers prefer..

The hexagonal socket did the trick! I gave up on removing the cross member for now, since it's caked in dinitrol and doesn't really need to be moved. incidentally, I got in touch with Vibratechnics and they told me that their front engine mount needs 45nm top and bottom. They also advised me to use regular nyloc M10 nuts top and bottom, as that's their race spec nut of choice and easy to acquire. Thumbs up to Phil and Vibratechnics for some very speedy customer service, despite me saying quite clearly upfront that it wasn't a new item. i'm please to confirm that i'm getting lots less movement up front, which makes pulling away from the line and gear changes much smoother.

I've had a bit of a hard time trying to undo the 13mm nuts on the cover under the front engine mount. 2 ok, 1 starting to round off with my Halfords 12point sockets. I shall go and acquire some proper hex or impact sockets and try again before I trash the nut completely.. i've also been trying to take off the lower front cross member (i was refering to this as the lower front subframe earlier - now corrected!). However i'm having a similar problem with one bolt that won't budge, so i'll try a proper 17mm hex socket on this too. from a thread I stumbled upon on the VR6OC forum, it may not be worthwhile bothering with fitting 4 powerflex / pu bushes to the cross member. Who's got an opinion on this? genuine rubber vs old rubber vs new pattern rubber vs pu. Can anyone tell me how tight I need to torque the subframe bolts? cheers Chris

I wouldn't worry too much, but I would do your best to get it right. The trick is that when fitted, to fill to the point where oil stops running out of the fill hole. tou could fill a new oil-free recon box before you fit, but it'll be heavier. if I was fitting a new box, i'd want to refresh the oil fairly soon after, like you would with a recon engine. The wear on new gearbox parts may not be as big as for an engine, but either way you'll need to get used to filling it fitted anyway. since you're filling from perfectly empty, you will know there is none already inside. When you drain it next time, just note how much comes out before blindly trying to cram more than that back in, or you'll overfill for sure. good luck :)

Top tips (apologies in advance if you already know this!): Get the fill plug out before you remove the drain plug. Drain when warm or like me you won't get it all out. Lastly, fill from level ground using a long bendy piece of hose into the fill hole, or you will over fill unless you jack both front and back of the car. This is because the fill hole should be filled to the brim if level. You'll be surprised how a few degrees makes all the difference to burst oil seals. ...enjoy the improvement!

Cheers!

Ah that makes sense, thanks! I've just test-lowered the engine into position as I have to go out and didn't want it to sit on the jack for hours. I was starting to worry that the threaded stud on the bottom of the VT mount wasn't long enough to get the nut on, but if that lower cup with 3 retaining nuts is only a cover then that makes more sense. ..now if only I can wrestle those three nuts off...! I'll soak with wd40 and try again later :) thanks for the tip!

Hi folks, I could do with some guidance please. i've bought a good condition Vibratechnics front engine mount and am trying to fit it. i've got the front of the car on axle stands and with a block of wood insert to protect the sump, i've used my trolley jack to raise the engine. i've undone both the top retaining bolt on the front mount and also the allen head bolt in the middle at the bottom and have easily lifted the old mount out. am I supposed to also remove the 3 nuts on the bottom to take out the rubber ring and metal insert that the mount attaches to in the front subframe? I'm trying to undo them upsaide down but the nuts are just getting damaged. see the centre of this pic I found on google: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c240/g60mikey/transformer098.jpg Since i've got the engine jacked now, it seems easy enough to drop out the 4 retaining bolts holding the lower front subframe. My god they're not about to budge!!! Any advice? If i'm servicing the front engine mount and fitting a super hard VT mount, will it be important to service or replace the 4 subframe bushes and the subframe lower engine mount insert? All advice gratefully received! chris

I have a secondhand Vibratechnics front engine mount to fit (thanks CazzaVR!). What torque setting do I need to use? cheers Chris

I gave up trying to clean the ISV on my 16v Mk2 Golf. I eventually stumped up for a new one from GSF and was amazed at how much better it idled. Actually, thinking about it, since I fitted a new Bosch MAF and ISV, my VR6 has never stalled... Just sayin'!

Sorry for hijacking your thread, but is this the one to buy for a '93/L VR6? http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCKII.html thanks!

J*** OGS dark metallic green VR in south wigston tesco car park. Nice pair of frilly knickers on the rear view... Classy!