Josh Waddi

Not sure on the fitment thing but i know padding a sub box out with the insides of a pillow it will give a better bass-line. Trick ive played in all my ICE setups

Hi the bleed screw was on very tight, ive found what it was, THE NEW CALIPER!!!! Just to let you all know the joys of buying parts from GFS. Phoned up to check they had the part in, yes said the sales rep and advised it was £79.99. I questioned the amount he quoted as i had looked on thier website and it was £49.99. He came back and said the part number had changed and i was correct. So i go down (12 miles away in this snow) and the guy says theres a £30 sur-charge on the part with exchange for my old one. I basically told him where to shove-it. Got the caliper for £49.00 and then fitted it. When coming to test the brakes i had the bleed kit on and was making sure all was fine when i seen a constant quick flowing drip. There was no pressure under the pedal at all. So i got a friend to pump the brake whilst i lay in the snow with my head under the car and i see the leak from the new caliper. theres a spring lever which the handbrake cable runs into and the spring has a washer were its connected to the caliper which was very loose. It was pouring out of here. Now i missed a days pay from work and im having to take a half day pay cut so i can get replacement caliper and get it changed. :bad-words:

Hi, im having a nightmare with this now, new caliper bought from GFS, fitted, just tested the brakes and all the fluid has pumped out!!!! any ideas? not used to this hands on approach. everything went on the way it came off and the hose was on as tight as possible.

Hiya mate, i just posted the exact same yesterday, stripped the handbrake down and found it wasnt that. took the rear o/s wheel off and could see the caliper had seized. id advise to check the same.

Right, so it would be just cheaper and easier to buy a new caliper?

Thanks for the help guys, gonna need 2 new handles how fun. Thanks for the guy who rang me, managed to get rear caliper carriers from a MK4 golf. was wondering if they will go straight on my current disks or will i need different ones? the pads are fine and fit. just dont wanna take my brakes apart and not be able to re-buld them back up. Need a swift reply on this people as i cant get to wrk tomorrow, no work no dollar!! Thanks again

bump, thread edited,

Most definatly the drivers side being reverse thread, ive had the passenger one out no problem. Thanks again.

U lenend, my eye sight is shocking so clearly i just missed this. The screw was fine before i destroyed the head as it was replaced when the repair kit was fitted. Hopefully be able to fix this now. Thankyou

Post re-edited Details added to the bottom. Will MK4 rear calipers fit straight onto my current standard setup. 1991 1.8 16V. If not what will be needed to make the adaption, i also have the caliper carriers. Thanks

Hiya, yeah ive laced it with WD40 and im gonna gove it another go at weekend, i soppose it would be easier with some air tools.

Hi People My suspension has taken some corrosion and it looks like the top mount or something have given up, its the rear nearside one, its come up through the rear speaker and smashed it to peices. I tried to take it off to see whats actually buggered so i can take it to get fixed but i was unable to undo the bolt at the top end. i clamped the piston and it was just spinning inside the clamp, it was at tight as possible and nearly burst a blood vessel clamping it on. Can anyone give some advise or guideance on how to get the suspension un done? Also i have a full set of coilovers which i was planning on swapping but i need a C Spanner, has anyone got one

maybe me ,aqua blue low, borbet a deep dish, how many corrados are in cornwall, cant be many, should get a good gathering of them! one day/evening! Hi, i dont think it was mate, defo green and salford/manchester.

Just seen a green C outside my work @ salford quays 9.30am. Was stood having a cig so i didnt want to seem like a wierdo waving. :clap: Anyone on here? looked sweet on some shiny deep dish rims. possibly a VR too??

Id say no less than £2k IMP

With the MPG you get out of any ranges of the C and the never ending list of faults i highly doubt there would be many dealers in a C.

Hi Grey16 If you can translate german why not try and have a look on thier website, they may have a lits of upgrades for the Corrado. Apperently there still up and running in the UK. www.oettinger.de Cheers

LOL well if you run a turbo or charger you are obviously exempt from my dual hero action comments. If I had one I would probably do it as well to embarass some newer machinery :grin: Got a bit of a chip on my shoulder with drag racing. I see so many kids ragging the arse off their cars in a straight line around my way, when we have the most awesome driving roads in the country on our doorstep! Plus when they are 17 they can all only afford the same power cars. Ditto when they are 19 and 21. So they all end up having accidents and killing themselves and their mates cos they take stupid risks trying to overtake a similar powered car :shrug: i can defintaly see where you 2 are coming from. i dont normally put my foot down until im on a ruraul road of which i know very well. im my example it was the M6 toll of which you have to sort of keep in a straight line "drag" race. and get bac upto speed.

Meeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!! i waved but not for to long as i was negotiating the roundabout! Not seen a corrado so close to home before. Martyn where abouts in Bolton are you. theres a 3 of us hopefully meeting up soon, possibly at middlebrook. :clap:

Personally i think its the driver more than the car. ive raced my mates Fiesta ST and i was in my 1.8 16V. I was in the lead until we hit around 100mph then it was plain sailing for him upto 130 mph. (obviously i gave up at 100 and took his word he got to 130). I think if it was a different driver behind the wheel of the ST he would have showed me my ar*e

The fault drivers insurers have been on offering me a pre accident value, which obviously confrims it has been written off. he offered me £800 due to the HIGH milage and the RETAIL value. :lol: He was politely advised the vehicle has averaged 10,000 miles a year which is definatly not high and there is no such thing as a retail value on a vehicle over 10 years old as they dont retail at this age. i told him i am a claims handler and i know my shizzle and to bugger off and come back with a respectable offer. :wave:

Thanks for the comments people. For the vultures out there im based in Bolton. Luckily i work for an insurance company dealing with motor claims so im pretty clued up on how things work, there was a witness who advised the driver was definatly drunk and she got the reg less the last letter so i wizzed down to my work the day after to do some searching and find the bugger, not long after i found all thier details but as they didnt stop at the scene no one will give me a replacement until liability has been agreed. As far as injuries go i was actually sore for a day or so, it was a 306 estate so its got some weight behind it, but i am going to claim for injuries and as she didnt stop im going to milk it as much as i can, i soppose if she stopped and was a half decent human being my thoughts on this would be a lot different. It was reported to the police the same night as i was advised i would get a call back within 24 hours, over 78 hours later i call them back to see whats going on, and yet again i was advised i will get a call back, if anything the police have been the worst to take action from this accident. :brickwall: Hopefully it will all be sorted soon enough, im still positive it will be written off but as many people have said this is the last thing i want. but on a slightly positive side im thinking of going for the G60 next time.

Hi Theres gonna be another C ready for scrapping very soon, some drunk lady crashed into me whilst i was waiting at a se of lights. she even got away but luckily i got her reg and she is insured. Mines gotta be a write off (which i will keep) and then hopefully sell bits and pieces. Im really gutted as i only got a full stainless fitted a month or so ago. gonna be looking to buy another one too hopefully.

Yeah they aint half bad, just gives a differnt look to the C. wot costs was involved in this?

Hi Can you let me know if this has been fixed/stopped mines doing the exact same but it gets worse and worse. Basically it pulls to the left slightly when driving and when the steering wheel is turned againt the natual left pull of the car there is a very loud squeak. as the the car pulls all the time and im constantly correcting this its constantly squeaking and really embarrasing as eveyone knows corrados get a lot of attention. Other things i have noticed with this - I was positive when the squeaking started it was on the opposite turn, i.e when i turned right it squeaked and now it doing this turning left. Also it doesnt do it on a inital drive when the car is cold, it tends to kick in once everything is warmed up. Can anyone give any advise/opinons on what to check, my thoughs on this are bearing, joints or wheel alignment (geometry) i dont think the brakes have any involvement? Thanks in advance Josh Josh First off most cars 'seem' to pull to the left - its really quite hard to find a road without camber on it - its needed for drainage or rain. Therefore you could be looking at either side of the car. The obvious check is to check which front wheel got hot; bear in mind that brakes always get too hot to touch, so you're looking for underiable heat in the wheel or somewhere. A crude way to check is to drive for a bit, when it squeeks or whines, get a mate to jump out and listen outside, on either side. This might save some time, because next you need to get your hands dirty. I wouldn't drive far on this; each tiem you heat your brakes up you could be boiling the brake fluid (even though design to work at high temps), and you're very likely to be boiling the grease inside the hub (even if it isnt broke -yet), it goes liquid and drains out, leaving you with metal on metal. Jack the car up and waggle the wheel as if you wanted to pull it off - there should be no clunking or play; play would mean bearings, clunk could be this too or the boot. Then whip off the wheel, and take off caliper; make sure pads are freely moving - first out of good habit, but secondly, if they're rusted into one place, its a sign the caliper piston has seized too. Also check for metal debris on the pads or disc, badly scratched etc; it maybe as simple as that - the pulling to the left maybe a myth/in-yu-head (unless its real bad) Now look at piston, it should be in good nick; pump the brake gently once and see the piston moves (maybe put bit of wood in there to stop piston coming out too far. Now push piston back in - should slide back with good effort, all the way back/flush. Search other threads how to do this and how to take caliper off and take good care of it. Might even be in the wiki. Next, hub/bearings... Thats phase 1. The squeaking sounds heat related, therefore metal and driven. The pulling could be related, or could be unrelated and tracking. Thanks for you detailed reply Stuart and is much appriciated, im more than certain its what you have explained. There still is a definate pull to the left, i cant let the steering wheel free for a second as it would put me up the kerb! Will grab a friend tomorrow and get dirty. Thanks again :salute: