Dox

Take the cap off the relay and resolder the dry joints = free :)

I always buy heavy duty batteries as soon as cranking starts to slow down in colder weather on all our cars. My VR6 will sit for months and start immediately as and when needed without a charge (no radio currently in the car and sorn) HD Yuasa battery Compare the readings with another known good car to see if the meter is reading correctly, make sure all the plates inside the battery are submerged in acid, see if any cell bubbles excessively when under load. Check the security and cleanliness of all connections - battery posts, alternator and ground (body and engine / gearbox)

And another http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Schrick-Alloy-Sump-16v-G60-8V-Golf-Corrado-GTI-/200940164646?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ec8f79626

Are the 256mm rear calipers 2wd or 4wd?

From my own car, done 158K but is silent and the change is excellent (the previous owner commuted from Cannock to Derby each day), from an L&K Octavia so not thrashed / big turbo etc £100 ONO

Suitable for VR6, will reduce your top speed, so probably more suited to a track day car etc. 150K miles but is silent and changes as sweet as a nut. No tower. £60 collected (10 mins from J16 M6)

I fitted a gauge sender in the sump plug in one of my previous cars for comparrison purposes.

To add to the mix, some of these 24v engines are now 10+ years old, many have done similar mileages to the VRs they will be replacing. The VVT stuff is very expensive, 300+ for the sprockets and similar for the solonoids and mounting block (only available as a complete unit), cam sensors £100 many have been abused and service intervals ignored, wrong oil used and because there values are low run into the ground.

MX5 handle?

I ended going up into the loft last night to look at old show pics, I couldn't find any from Curborough though

A newly born and losing his storage according to his build thread.... Real shame, the car looks to be a good one

You have to be a donator to post a new thread in the breaking section ---------- Post added at 3:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:18 PM ---------- It even says so and directs you to the donation page when you view the home page..... "If you are breaking a car, please post details in this section. (Do NOT use the Parts For Sale section). Please ensure you give full details and prices (where possible) for parts that are available. All new threads are Moderated. Note: In order to post an advert to break a car, you MUST be a Donator. Please click here to support the forum"

I've PM'd him, he works nights so I wont get messaged back until late afternoon

I had a PM on another forum from a lad wanting a 2E for a scirocco project, I've linked this thread to him. Is the bottom end OK?

How much for the 2E bottom end?

Why not just throw the engine inside the shell?

I remember your car from CGTi curby track days, sat on RCs? I also remember the Rabbit write up. What do you drive now?

If the car is LHD then that wont help premiums either

B10 VRT is available on DVLAs site for £400, L666 VRT is £250

Hold the input shaft stationary whilst you turn the drive cup (ie replicate the same set up as if the gearbox was in the car with the engine off) and repeat your test

ABT alloys are usually dual drilled, 5 x 100 and 5 x 112 (mine are), maybe worth mentioning if this is the case? GLWS

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281124741585?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Arrived today, really pleased, thank you :)

http://pierburg-ustinl.kspg-ag.com/index.php?lang=3 There's no "O" in Pierburg, just incase people are searching:) GLWS

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/mgbv8mike/m.html?item=281124657969&pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item417455db31&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562