Dox

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-Alloy-Wheels-/331041581518?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&hash=item4d139da9ce

I may be able to help with shell cuts next week if you can't get sorted before - The screen top is rotted on the one I'm cutting though

Looks better than I remember - getting old :(

Immobiliser faults will allow just a few rotations of the engine before cutting out, try another key

Remove the hoses from the radiator and flush the rad and engine block with a hose pipe. Refill with coolant once thoroughly flushed. Remove the plugs and see which cylinders are not firing and go from there looking for the cause of the misfire. Check all breathers and inlet hoses for splits etc that cause hesitation.

If you slash a tyre sidewall with a Stanley knife on a regular wheel / tyre combo once deflated the slash will attempt to reseal itself visually. The huge gaping grin shows how much stress has been inflicted on the sidewall over and above the usual vehicle weight, the sidewall has been trying to reduce the circumference of the tread crown block, something its not designed to do.

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Or direct http://bandbcomponents.com/

Tyre sidewalls just aren't designed to be used like that. You could have picked up a cut on the inside edge, under inflation will also cause the side walls to overheat and blow out. At the end of the day its just a tyre, no ones hurt and that's a good thing :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1991-VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-G60-RED-/181234111609?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2a32651479

Thanks

Do you have a link please?

Check for inlet air leaks including breather pipes, air entering the engine after the Maf will lead to a weaker mixture than what's required leading to hesitation, rough idle etc

If you need a BDE head and valves for R&D or display purposes I have one (no cams / sprockets), its a heavy lump to courier though

Check the ET of all the wheels are the same

Now on other forums, its the full set up for the price of a charger rebuild. I was quoted £300 to remove the immobiliser and wire the 1.8T loom to the g6o fuse box loom

You can use a spirit level to roughly check side to side, measure the distance from vertical top of the wheel (not the tyre) and bottom of the wheel and subtract one from the other, then do the other side. Camber is adjusted with the 2 bolts holding the strut to the hub, fine tuning can be done with the 3 bolts holding the hub bottom ball joint to the wishbone.

What happens if you open one of the lines before the compensator? Does fluid come out?

If you have front brakes it can't be the master cylinder. Is the car jacked up on stands? If so the load compensator will reduce the pressure to the rear brakes. You need to replicate the rear suspension under load of passengers to fully open the compensator valve.

You wouldn't be the first to grind the calliper for clearance purposes.

MK2 Golf / Jetta, MK3 Golf / Vento, Passats with transverse engines of the same era. One rear brake!

For sale 1.8T AUM (drive by wire) engine, ancils, loom, revo'd ecu forge DV, G60 flywheel, starter, front mount. This engine has done 160K in a Skoda Octavia L & K estate, the previous owner commuted from Cannock to Derby daily, serviced every 10K on the dot, no oil leaks (the PAS pump did mist a little around its mounting), no coolant leaks or losses. I drove the car for 14K miles before I broke it, no sweat. Its due a cambelt and water pump. Offers around £400 Options include; The original EVS gearbox - known all good A MK3 GTI 16V gearbox - bought off another forum A G60 engine loom (so that you could sort the loom plug and play for a faster change over reducing downtime) If no interest in the next 7 days I'll begin to part out the above. Thanks

Did you guess right? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-passenger-side-headlight-/111175457405?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19e292da7d&clk_rvr_id=526799986211

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1993-VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-16V-BLACK-/200969982575?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2ecabe926f Relisted due to a timewaster..........................

If you have a weak spark on all 6 plugs it suggests, poor coil performance - clean the 12V pos and neg connections, poor king lead (the lead between the coil and dizzy cap) check for security and corrosion of the ends, dizzy cap and rotor arm. I'd also make sure the battery connections are spotlessly clean and the battery - body - engine and gearbox earth points are spotless too. A few volts lost in the wiring will mean several 1000 volts lost at the coil, when cranking this will fall dramatically due to the power needed from the battery to crank over the V6 engine.