Dox

Ohh yes

I've never bought a good car off ebay I've never bought a good used car from a used car seller I've bought good cars off Autotrader from private sellers I've bought good cars from local newspapers I've bought good cars from British Car Auctions (BCA), this is my prefered method - but are not open to non trade ATM, online only I've bought good cars off forums - here and others I bought a cheapy of fb last year - not the best, but has been relliable, it gets me to work navigating floods and muddy roads I hate selling cars - I'd rather break them

The white wire to connection 4 looks narrowed like the wire is broken inside the insulation?

I don't know in this case, but usually a 4 wire lambda has 2 wires for its inbuilt heater (they work better when hot) and 2 wires for signal (ECU). I suspect the 2 gold plated terminals are the signal to ecu connections.

I'd be looking for another leak

Have you measured the resistance of your sensors with an ohmmeter?

From previous posts I believe its the interior trim pieces that are the sought after / difficult to obtain for autos, so wrap them well for future wanted ads

It could still be faulty, just in / out is not a sign of a faulty joint

Its the inner CV that has length adjustment, in out is fine, up / down /around is bad

Push in towards the gearbox, pull out towards the hub? Yes, the shaft has to lengthen and contract as the suspension elongates and compresses. The distance between the gearbox and hub varies in use

It’s important that the brakes are working as they should before you adj the compensator. If the car is non ABS or the ABS is showing a fault and you adjust the compensator to give excessive rear braking you’ll be sideways everywhere as soon as you touch the brakes. if you’re unsure of the way it works, or unsure of your abilities take the car to someone who’s familiar with this set up.

There’s no need to touch that vac pipe to bleed the brakes, that’s dry, takes vacuum from the running engine with the throttle closed to the servo. When the throttle opens the non return valve closes to maintain vacuum in the servo to assist brake pedal pressure, reducing effort on your leg / foot

The compensator is variable, preset with the weight of the car on its wheels. It’s attached to the shell via bracket and spring, the more weight in the rear of the car the more force applied to the rear brakes. you said it had been replaced? So factory settings are now disturbed. I assemble the disks, pads, calipers with the pistons fully back, handbrake cables off. Then use the levers on the callipers to set them up, full strokes on the levers until the pads grab the disk. Then fit and adjust the cables.

I’ve had this myself a few years ago and I ended up roughing the disks with a flap wheel in a grinder and de glazing the pads too - straight pass afterwards

Daz alway washes whiter, each generation has improved but still have limitations

1, they need full movement and return to auto adjust for pad wear. 2, linear movement of the cable goes to rotational movement of the levers affecting mechanical advantage. once set up correctly I’d do some heavy braking to see if you can lock the rears, if not I’d adjust the compensator to give more rear effort, then deglaze the pads to give more bite - lightly used pads form a glaze that reduces initial bite on the disk

It’s the non return valve for the brake servo. If leaking it will affect fuel mixture and running / idling as well as servo brake performance

Do the levers on the callipers return to there stops?

Handbrake is not affected by the master cylinder and you have low effort on foot and hand braking. brakes are diagonally split from the M/C, front right and rear left off one M/C circuit, front left rear right on the other. Again suggesting M/C is operating as it should. what make we’re the rear disks and pads? Do the handbrake levers on the callipers return to there stops?

Looks a nice one? VR6 this time or engine conversion? Took the liberty of finding your old car thread. Andy's new valver - Members Gallery - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)

Pics? most tend to use the Tapatalk app

Jack the car up, put the steering on full lock left / right and push / pull on the CVs. Also look for signs of any interference marks where components could be touching

Late bulged bonnet. Late wider arched front wings. Late bumper - body line goes straight and tapers out. Late headlamp again Rear arches are the same early and late Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pic shows early narrow early wing (arches are pulled out wider on late cars, bonnets bulge higher to miss the taller VR6 engines), early bumper - the body line at the top curls upwards towards the arch line. Headlamp is late and has black plastic mask surround Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like a knackered CV to me?