Dox

We know! Toby would be more inclined to keep the platform up to date if the revenue for the forum made it worth while? We all prioritise our time around paid work that puts food on the table and pays our bills?

Just don't post on facebook……. Support this forum by being a donator. CCGB should thrash out a deal to use this forum for ALL their business even if it means some of it is password protected. The following for these cars now simply isn't big enough for the "them and us" to continue.

If it still has the original gas inside I believe its now banned? Replenishing with a newer more ozone friendly type means all the seals need to be replaced first? Its worth asking a few questions before commencing if you're looking for a long lasting repair.

For an engine to run you need, A spark Fuel injected into the cylinder Compression And it all need to be timed correctly It starts from cold, so I doubt the last two are an issue, so when it won’t start find out what’s missing?

It would have no effect if the sensor was open circuit (blown) and then you unplugged it? My only experience with lamdbas was a Volvo 740 I bought that the previous owner decatted it and just let the sensor plugged in under the bonnet, the car failed its annual inspection because it ran rich, not lean. When you're checking sensors its also a good idea to check the plug connections to for corrosion or maybe that the pins have pushed back so the fail to make a connection with the sensor.

When it wont start you need to see if there's a spark and if fuel is actually injected into the cylinder - wet plugs when removed soon after extended cranking. In the UK if we say a car wont crank it means the starter doesn't turn the engine over at all. What you have is cranks but wont start - 99% of us here are UK based.

This was bought by 2 forum members and parts split between themselves, OP no longer has anything from this car. Needs the thread locking?

At the end of the day we only gave advice, you listened and got the car to run, so well done you

So with the old slave now off what's wrong with it?

Its a 4 stroke engine, suck, squeeze, bang, blow. No1 piston is on TDC twice per cycle. Remove the cam cover and spark plugs, with a spanner on the crank pulley rotate the engine to TDC (you can carefully place a screwdriver inside number one plug hole - timing belt end, to watch the piston lift to its full height) with the cam lobes on number one cylinder pointing skywards in a V formation (if they're not rotate the engine another 360 degrees) , remove the dizzy cap and check you've put the dizzy in correctly. If you use the screwdriver in the plug hole slow and easy is the way to go as you don't want it jamming and damaging anything

Black leather tt seats are cheap and comfortable.

There are engineers that go from garage to garage doing only this type of job (as well as snapped glowplugs, diesel injector removal etc). They'll have the guides etc to drill the hole perpendicular to the existing hole so that the refitted plug seals correctly. It maybe worth asking around garages local to yourself for advice?

When the slave seals go you'll find a puddle of fluid under the car

Re the fag lighter, if small children are allowed in the car it wouldn't be the first time one of them placed a coin inside the fag lighter socket causing it to short out and the fuse to blow. Its not unknown for the wiring behind the dash to be burnt, shorting out and burning the car to the ground, if you're leaving the car for periods of time remove the battery earth lead to make the car as safe as possible and carry a 10mm spanner to remove the earth lead should the worst happen whilst driving it.

If yours is a late car it will have a chip built into the key, it’s read by a coil around the ignition switch which can also give you problems. As can the immobiliser box of tricks itself. Relay 109 is also a suspect A scan should reveal if the car is being “blocked by immobiliser “

Cutting out after a second or so is usually the factory immobiser. Try a spare key?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/The-Original-Seat-Arosa-Ibiza-Windscreen-Wiper-Motor-Linkage-Rod-Repair-Clip/261951442999?fits=Model%3AIbiza&epid=1944950708&hash=item3cfd85d037:g:cDUAAOxy~dNTIc53:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true Someone fitted a clip similar to the one above to stop the arm dislocating. I'm not sure this will fit a Corrado, the link is for illustration only!

Post a pic of the brakes, the car may have non standard brakes currently?

Ibiza 1.8t should bolt up straight to the tunnel

I’m going to have to find them first lol As far as I’m aware any 5 speed 02j tower and lever will fit using a polo Ibiza housing

I have a couple of towers and mk4 shifter assays somewhere, I even have a section of tunnel to weld in lol

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Permatex-Copper-Spray-A-Gasket-Hi-Temp-Sealant-255g-can-MLS-head-gaskets/253999956283?hash=item3b2393c13b:g:Eu0AAOSwRfxb~CAY:rk:5:pf:1&frcectupt=true Others will know better but I think its this?

He measured a previously used gasket as they're designed to crush and only measured the fire rings around the cylinder

Seems quite a scientific analysis, but others have said there is a performance advantage. VR6 heads corrode badly around the waterways, often needing building up with chemical metal before a skim, to my mind the fibre gasket will seal better around uneven surfaces? Some who've used the MLS gasket have sprayed it with a sealing compound before fitting it. What would I fit? I don't know.....

https://clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/toyotecs-debunking-the-myth-about-12v-vr6-mls-and-fibre-aaa-and-amy-head-gaskets.285724/ Other have still said the MLS gasket has an advantage, the jury is out?