Dox

If they write them off that's how they get categorised in the fist place Cat A, fire or flood damage etc = crush only Cat B, heavily damaged = break only Cat C (now Cat S), damaged estimated to costs more to repair than pre accident value Cat D (now Cat N), damaged estimated to be around 70% to 80% of the pre accident damage Above is a guide only, different companies have different values for Cat C / D

Vip60

Stanford hall show judges Kips car highly so that’s good enough for me, I’ve seen his and Judiths in the flesh

Pics of the wheels / brakes?

Its worth what someone prepared to pay.

For me, yes. New members having to slave away at 6 posts to qualify for the classifieds believe this place is the holy grail for enthusiasts to pay high prices, but in reality regulars rarely pay top money for cars advertised here. Kips car must be one of the top 3 in the country if not Europe yet its been "sort of" for sale for a few years, there can't be many here who wouldn't be proud to own such a car, but no one so far will pay the premium to make it happen.

This has to be the worst place to advertise a Corrado for sale... 1, Most here own one or two 2, Some previous owners have moved on and wouldn't be without modern accessories - cup holders anyone? 3, We're the worst critics - especially pricing - GLWS translates as "**** me, I wouldn't pay that for one"! I've bought 3 cars off the forum, all have had the asking prices criticised discretely by members to the point I've just viewed them and paid the revised asking price - all 3 bargains I might add.

The first thing I'd do is fit new quality bulbs and try again

Realistically? Half what its cost you. No one currently restores these cars for profit simply because they're a niche car and buyers wont pay those sort of prices. Price wise I'd have thought between £3K and £10K depending on fit, finish and modifications etc (completely standard G60s are very rare). I hope the process of the restoration has helped with the sad loss of your partner.

Vip60

I had no choice in the matter, I broke the car once the mot ran out.

It was CAT N (non structural), CAT S is structural. £1500 or £1350 and I kept the salvage, dented bumper, scratched grill and bonnet for an 03 plate Golf TDi estate. I travelled 200 miles for a pair of classic green front wings for one of my Corrados, even further for a spare engine.

I had a non fault accident last year, the car stayed with me and I bought it back for 10% of the pre accident valuation. They inspected the car on my drive and I made the decision to keep the golf there and then. If the jeep is ok to drive bide your time and source panels in the correct colour, even if you have to drive 100s of miles to collect them you’ll be quids in.

There are people on this forum who've had there units returned to them after being charged the initial testing fee and the units deemed unrepairable. BBA are doing their best, ultimately it will depend on how many used spares they can get hold of and how profitable the repair is

As I understand it spares are unavailable for the pumps, BBA cannibalise old units and reflow the solder joints to produce a Frankenstein, so there's no guarantee they can repair either of your units.

The wiring should just be long enough to unplug and reconnect to your spare unit, then you can scan again

Check your under bonnet fuseboxes - link because tapatalk doesn't work and posting pics is a nightmare without it https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/461268-2010-octavia-lighting-issue/#comment-5180205 My own car

Its the clutch slave (not brake, not being pedantic, just trying to stop confusion for the OP)

Could be an air leak? Check all vacuum piping around the engine bay going too / from the manifold etc for splits etc allowing air to enter the engine when the throttle is closed

Vip60

I have a set of those I started to strip for refurb, someone had previously done them and stripped the splines on the bolts, others had sheared and had the heads of the bolts glued in...…. I also own 2 brand new ones... I have a couple of sets of 5 x 100 Subaru 16s (OZs and unknown make) that will require spacers for the centre bore and offset. 16 Compomotive THs, 17 BBS RCs, 17 ABT A23s, a spare set of solitudes, 2 spare speedos. Recently sold S3 Avus 17s, 16 Montreal 2s, Audi TT 16 mini comps, 18 TT RS4s, A5 18s and Rangerover 19s To quote my Mrs, "You've bought more wheels!"

Always negative off first, always negative connected last.

Never any issues with explorer on laptop or safari ipad / phone. The forum is on a slow decline for sure

Yes, the pads should just pull out with your fingers, the fact that the handbrake lever will move suggests the piston is not seized. Don’t press the pedal with the Caliper off the pads Also check the Caliper slides move in and out freely

Check the pads aren't jammed in the carriers, not cleaned up by the fitter before installing new pads.