Dox

Says, "1993 L Reg 2.0 16v Corrado." in his sig.

We're ready when you are?

I'd try and avoid going through insurance if I was you, no panels available might mean the car getting written off affecting future value and even a non fault accident affects your premiums.

I’m trying to buy a Volvo brick- 240 Estate to replace my 2010 Octavia

What’s the solution?

I'm working

Good work there - what a lovey pair! How do you find the brakes?

G834 YNF Not taxed since 98, no Mot records held either

You'd have to ask someone like hotgolf for a definitive answer on that. If you think about the circumference of the tyres of the MK4 compares to a C you'll soon realise the final drive doesn't really suit the C - 195 50 15 V 195 65 15 for the goof

They’re usually on eBay, people use them to convert Mk4 platform gearboxes to mk2 / 3 / Corrado driveshafts. Around £60 - £80 for a pair, either bolt on or push fit depending on gearbox etc

There's more to insurance than the cheapest premium, I had a non fault accident last year with Brentacre / Markerstudy and everything went to plan, premiums have increased though because even non fault mean you are an increased risk. I've used Brentacre for years and would recommend them.

You could slip the belt off for a trial for 10 seconds or so, I'd do it with oil temps no higher that 60 degrees though. I presume the heads been skimmed? And the valve seats cut too to restore clearance between the valve heads and pistons?

You might consider MK1 TT mudflaps? Obsolete now and a used set changes hands for £200 - £250.....

Not if you have VCDS, I have a pre canbus set up on an old laptop, as well as a genuine current set up, all 6 cars in the household are VAG.

My reply was to toledovr6, I'm not interested, own 2 Corrados and 3 other cars atm Re the abs, people run these cars with the light on forever, so when you start to diagnose the fault several things will be faulty, the car I bought from the IOM had the light on permanently, changed a wheel sensor, then it went intermittent, changed the pump to remove inlet / outlet codes and still intermittent, changed the pedal travel sensor and all's now good.

I flew to the isle of man for one of mine and ferried it back.

Put it on ebay, most people here already own one. Everyone thinks this is the place to sell for a good price, it just doesn't happen here.

I tried to join the UR Q forum last year, it’s blocked to new members and their admin can’t get the block off.....

If I understand correctly the current set up wont support tapatalk, the next generation of vbullitin is horrible, so we're changing platform? http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?107293-Locked-out-of-Tapatalk&p=1219996#post1219996

We know! Toby would be more inclined to keep the platform up to date if the revenue for the forum made it worth while? We all prioritise our time around paid work that puts food on the table and pays our bills?

Just don't post on facebook……. Support this forum by being a donator. CCGB should thrash out a deal to use this forum for ALL their business even if it means some of it is password protected. The following for these cars now simply isn't big enough for the "them and us" to continue.

If it still has the original gas inside I believe its now banned? Replenishing with a newer more ozone friendly type means all the seals need to be replaced first? Its worth asking a few questions before commencing if you're looking for a long lasting repair.

For an engine to run you need, A spark Fuel injected into the cylinder Compression And it all need to be timed correctly It starts from cold, so I doubt the last two are an issue, so when it won’t start find out what’s missing?

It would have no effect if the sensor was open circuit (blown) and then you unplugged it? My only experience with lamdbas was a Volvo 740 I bought that the previous owner decatted it and just let the sensor plugged in under the bonnet, the car failed its annual inspection because it ran rich, not lean. When you're checking sensors its also a good idea to check the plug connections to for corrosion or maybe that the pins have pushed back so the fail to make a connection with the sensor.

When it wont start you need to see if there's a spark and if fuel is actually injected into the cylinder - wet plugs when removed soon after extended cranking. In the UK if we say a car wont crank it means the starter doesn't turn the engine over at all. What you have is cranks but wont start - 99% of us here are UK based.