luke w

PM'd

No worries Dan, had a quick check at it's looking like £5 for postage.

Hi mate, it's Luke, Barry is the name of the town I live in! Is pap post and packaging? I'll get a few quotes and get straight back to you.

I have for a sale a pair of nearly new Fli Audio 5.25" 3 way coaxial speakers, removed from my Corrado which I'll be breaking soon. These fitted in the standard speaker pods in the door pocket. Below are the specs of the speakers from the manufacturer's website. Configuration : 3 way Speaker size : 5.25” (130mm) RMS power : 60 watts Peak power : 180 watts Minimum input : 30 watts RMS Sensitivity : 91dB Freq response : 80Hz – 20KHz Mounting diameter : 114mm Mounting depth : 54mm Voice coil diameter : 25mm Magnet material : Ferrite Magnet weight : 10 Oz Magnet size : 80mm x 12mm Magnet rating : Y30 Sounded really good in the car for the price, in as good as new condition. Pictures are below. Price is £15 plus postage or collection in person is fine, location is Barry, South Wales. My number is 07525 eight three one two one eight.

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I have for sale an early Corrado grill. It's in good condition except for one of the top clips has snapped off, it doesn't affect the fitment of the grill and it still remains secure once fitted. It comes complete with the VW badge which is also in good condition, as is the 16V badge. Below are photos. Price is £30, happy to post at buyers expense or collection fine.

I've got Osram Nightbreakers, good bulbs, especially as they were only £12 for the pair.

Thanks mate, will check it out tomorrow when it's light.

While putting the shopping in the boot this fell on my head. Anyone know where it should go? I had a quick look but it's pitch black outside and peeing it down so I got inside pretty sharpish.

What you want is a Mk1 snow plough!

Cool, will get that plugged in and pull the switch out and check it out. Worth a try I suppose, the heater is always set on hot!

Apologies for the delayed response! None of the dash that lights up when the lights are on are working. It does all light up for literally a second before it blows the fuse (just to double check it is a 10a fuse?). I haven't had time to take out the headlight switch to look for anything funny there, but I did notice a plug unplugged in the boot. I've attached a poor photo, it should be plugged into one of the connectors but I'm not sure which one, any ideas? I'm sure this isn't the cause of the problem, but it still could do with being plugged in.

Yeah I unplugged the the number plate lights and had a good look around to make sure no wires were snagging or catching on anything and it all looked okay. Is there a quick way to bypass the dash lights to make sure the number plate lights are okay?

A while ago my dash lights and numbers plate lights stopped working. The fuse blows after a few seconds of replacing it. I've disconnected the number plate lights to see if they were the problem but it's still happening so I'm assuming it's to do with the dash. What would be the next thing to check? I'm not that clued up on electrics and but would like to sort this myself without paying someone to fix it for me.

Ever since owning my C I've had a constant rattle inside the driver's door which annoys the hell out of me. I've replace the door striker pins for new ones and fitted new foam inside the door, but it's still there and getting worse. I think I've narrowed it down to the door pull linkage that goes from the interior door pull to the door catch. The linkage has a lot of slack in it, so much so that I'm having to pull the door pull almost 90 degrees before it pops open the door. Is there a way of adjusting the amount of slack in the linkage or is it easy to replace with new parts?

As the title says, can you fit a late heated interior into an early car? I know it'll physically fit in, but electrics wise will it all work? My main concern would be the heated seat loom and switch as I know the later dash switches are different to the early ones.

Right have had another go with the u joint (don't have a wobble extension) and there is no way I can get to it even with that. I've taken some photos but I'm not sure how well they show the situation. I'm almost certain the plate between the box and engine is in the way, thing is to remove it means splitting them! I don't know if the wrong plate is fitted and that's why I'm having the problem. It doesn't seem to follow the shape of the box at all, is that normal?

Thanks for the replies and tips. The little socket set I picked up today has a u joint so I'll give it a go with that. Why couldn't they have made the indents in the sump just a couple mm more!

I'm in the middle of removing the sump to get to the oil pick up to clean it out to hopefully sort out an oil pressure problem, but there are two bolts between the sump and gearbox that look impossible to get to. I've got the smallest 1/4" socket set but the gap is too small. The only way I can see getting to the bolts is to remove the plate that sits between the block and gearbox. Please tell me there is a way to get to the bolts without having to split the box from the engine?

Thank god I noticed this thread, the rattles are starting to do my head in and pretty much all the areas are covered in here! Just a quick one, where do you lot get your self adhesive foam from?

On a recent run I decided to work out the true MPG the rado was doing rather than going by the unreliable MFA. The figures were as follows. 213.5 miles. 24.03 litres. Converting the litres to gallons it works out as 5.286, which gives 40.4 MPG! I was surprised it was that high, I was assuming it would be high 20s. The MFA was reading 31.3. Just to check my figures, I've used the UK measure for gallons. What does the industry normally use?

As redborbet has said, with those offsets and using adaptors they are going to stick out of the arches quite a bit. They would cost a fortune to get them fitting well and it would involve quite a bit of camber and overly stretched tyres which would ruin the ride and handling.

Thanks, I'll give that a go tonight and see how I get on.

It's not between the wing and door and the b pillar and door where the gap is, it's more like they aren't closed properly. If you look down the side of the car from the rear quarter panel the doors stick out a bit. I'm sure I've read somewhere you there's a bit of adjustment for this.

Thanks for the suggestion. I've checked it out but I'm not sure how it works from their description and photos. They say it doesn't damaged the dash in anyway but they show it being screwed in?! Anyone on here have one or used one?