g0ldf1ng3r

ha ha who'd of thought! did you tell him you wanted them to make a 3 relay loom for here? lol

possibly but with the headlight & slam panel in situ it would need a drill bit which is around 6 to 7 inches long so as to physically reach the screw head then once the head is drilled off I don't think you could get the light out without first removing the thread part of the screw - which I don't think you could get to so as to push it upwards & out the hidden screw is in a mother of all awkward access places I was thinking along the lines of if it would be possible to get an tiny angle grinder to put a new slot in the screw head so as can then screw out. im not sure if that would be possible even with the slam panel off but maybe with some persistence & a hack saw blade you could get a slot in it

when I ordered my sill repair panels from them it was about 3-4 weeks I think IIRC heritage get a delivery from them every few weeks but it can then take them a few days to sort it all out & get it shipped to the customer

I had heard that the OEM connectors are difficult to get hold of - I believe that is why KUR2Y looms came with spade connectors however rayne automotive guy seems to have found a supplier as his site actively sells them with OEM connectors

thanks SR_Neale I think it would need to be tackled with the slam panel off so as you can access it from engine side how apart is your front end? if you could take a look I would be grateful I have a feeling I may need to take the VR front off again so as to change the rad fans as they have gotten rather noisey but im going to try some WD on them first to see if they quieten down (ive a fire extinguisher in the boot lol)

it does sound like battery the valver took a bit more starting than usual last weekend. although interior light came on & the time was ok when I got in the car after a couple of failed cranks the time reset to 00:00 fortunately I managed to get it started but the juice in the battery was the last it had I think ailing batteries can cause lots of funny issues also, your radio & headlights all could of worked as the battery had enough voltage to light them up but not enough to turn the starter motor over possibly

they do look tidy m8!! well found brushed chrome VR's too :) oh & thanks as that page gave me inspiration of what to do with my stock VR cams, removed when had 263's. I was thinking book ends or shelf or something but those lamps look mint

sorry, my 'seriously wrong' bit was probably not the best descriptor I should have typed - the need to give throttle when starting points to a definite issue somewhere as it should not need such could just be a sensor or fuel starvation or blockage or similar have you VAG com'd it to see if it throws any error codes?

hello m8 Longlife exhausts produced an awesome result on my VR 2.5" SS from downpipe back with high flow CAT, custom fab'd on the car (which is lowered & took him 7.5 hours to do) pics, video & info on my build thread if you want to see & hear

exactly what the gf's used to do I will contact her & ask if it persisted after she had her aux water pump changed - but then I know the temp sensor was not changed at the same time

bearing in mind the above - the slightly longer turning over before firing up when warm didn't cause any running issues on the gf's storm once it was started. it simply took a few more cranks than my VR

that used to happen on the gf's storm but has never happened on my VR it still did it even after cam sensor, coil pack, magnecor leads, plugs etc also, as per one of my earlier posts, the manual says never to give throttle when starting as can cause problems.....http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?93383-Back-to-my-VR6-again-but&p=1096088#post1096088

I would say that indicates something serious is wrong, or potentially reason I say that is if you read the user manual for the VR6 it states NEVER to press the throttle pedal when starting. this is due to it causing an issue with the fuel mapping & can cause an engine to run terribly rough. I believe it is due to the live fuel mapping on the 12v VR. the same rough running can be caused by a dead, or almost dead, battery as there is not enough voltage for the ECU to retain the fuel mapping info it saves once the engine is turned off. Vince explained this to me when my VR had all its work there as my battery was pretty much kaput I have experienced the above personally when I forgot to tell the paint shop to not apply throttle when starting & to make sure it runs for a good few minutes once started, as it also doesn't like to be started & then shut off very shortly after. when I collected it back it ran log a dog for the first couple of miles. jerking & stuttering etc. I let it warm up for a mile or two & then switched it off, left for a few seconds & restarted. bingo all was good again as such there is no way you should be having to rev the fk out of it or give it gas to get it firing FYI my normal VR starting sound is a kind of chukka, chukka vroom. every time. 2 chucks & off it goes. it is a sound I have grown to very much like on my VR lol the gf's storm however would very often take maybe 6 to 10 chukka's & then fire up when it was warm but again wouldn't require any throttle input to get it going I know that doesn't really give you any technical input but hopefully it will be of use

got one in the VR & one in the valver - both are excellent :D

ha ha i had that exact thing on the valver lol unfortunately the VR the head is rounded off & it is stuck fast - when i changed the radiator some time ago i ended up leaving the one light in the slam panel when i took that off

happy to help fella - PM me if anything is unclear on it or you have any questions good news about the waterproof relays - I will keep an eye on how you do that good luck edit - FYI my mention of issues removing headlights is due to the hidden screws which can be a right royal pain in the ass. i am still unsure how i am meant to remove that rounded off screw lol

when the OEM connectors are used it could present a routing issue there are a few tight gaps if you cant get your headlights out & the OEM connectors are quite chunky also, are you planning on water proofing the relays or just the fuses as per the spoonfed link you posted? reason I ask is that most issues happen due to a failed relay, rather than fuse, & normally due to them getting damp etc. however, that said in the 6 years I have had my KUR2Y loom on the VR I have only had 1 failed relay which I simply replaced & all was good again & yes as per seanl82 says an uprated loom needs the yellow dim dip needs to be disconnected & taped up seanrodford - if you are interested & if it would hep you I did an install guide kinda thing when I fitted the valvers a couple of months ago. photos show the routing I took & the mounting of relays etc http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?44751-g0ldf1ng3r-s-VR-amp-1-8-16V-headlight-woe-s/page25

as far as I am aware the bonnet earth cable is something to do with increasing radio reception - cant recall where I read that but am sure it was on here somewhere mine are snapped on both the VR & valver

apologies for only skimming the thread but have you checked your oil pressure & verified the sump pickup is working correctly when my VR went to stealth for head work Vince managed to identify a problem with my sump oil pump such that is was causing the system to over pressurise & then the engine would cut out Vince asked if I had ever experienced it cutting out when still cold if given a good rev but I explained I never go over 3.5k rpm until oil temp is over 70. he explained a tell tale sign of a problem with the sump pick up is that VR's will cut out if rev'd hard when still cold when he pressure tested mine, prior to new sump pump, it was 9 bar! should be about 1.5 IIRC

nice I like the lip on the front skirt! skirt kit reminds me a little of the kamei on my valver you don't know anyone who wants a Zender rear over spoiler do you? lol (in red too) I know they were/are popular in US & Canada welcome by the way :)

I thought images as attachments would have stayed with the threads. I wonder if it has something to do with the site archiving that took place. possibly the threads were moved to archive but not any data within then, ie the pictures I know it took me quite a while to rebuild the matrix guide kris produced as finding the correct images again was a challenge I wonder if Admins could comment?

ha ha that they do Jim they go beautifully with the power output curves from them too ;)

again Gus - my build thread is very pertinent to your current train of thought as I have journeyed down it myself (though from our little pre-Christmas meet & chat you may very well already be bearing my experiences in mind personally I would go to stealth, even despite the testing time I had with them I still highly recommend them as Vince & Jon produce superb results, plus Vince is not happy until his customer is happy! please make sure you well over budget though just in case

nice to see you back P3rks!! :D

Gus have a read of my build thread & specifically the part about when I had my chains & head rebuild done. from personal experience budget WAY more than you first think as once it is apart there are lots of old parts that could well also need replacing. plus, as we all know, with cars of out age just getting them apart can sometimes break stuff which then has to be replaced my engine work at stealth worked out a lot more than I originally intended - though I did also improve both the performance & engine asthetics