corradovr6sc

You could relocate it to a waste bin :) otherwise strap it onto the left side of the radiator.

I've heard the eip is good for forced induction applications but not sure how much better it is than a schrick. What is the difference between the eip and stock manifold? On my car the schrick has given me about 15 lbft torque lower down the rev range and perhaps a bit more power high up but I think the results are more dramatic on standard cars. Schricks are fairly rare (they are in the UK) so if you bought one and were disappointed you could always sell it for a good price. Have you considered a 2.9 Euro manifold and throttle body? A big valve head is a good modification too if your looking for extra power/torque.

Maybe it needs to be fractionally tighter; 30 degree twist on the longest run.

That's strange, mine never slips but that's probably because my belt is quite old and doesn't stretch anymore. They tend to slacken off a bit in damp weather though, but even then it only slips a bit in first gear.

It seems that a well maintained engine can handle the boost as long as the mapping is ok. I've been running my 8 psi z- engineering charger for 2 years and 25k miles with no reliability issues so I guess the engine can easily handle the boost. I'd only consider doing a full rebuild using low comp pistons etc. if the engine let go. In terms of differences between a modified g60 and vr6, I think the g60 feels very good low down/mid range but lacks the top end power of the vr6.

In that photo the plastic guard which covers the crank and pas pulley is missing for some reason, but when it is in place it touches the splash guard and in effect boxes in the air filter i.e. the plastic inner wheel arch, plastic pulley cover and splash guard forms a protective box. The splash guard is about 30 cm square and is fixed to the front spoiler and the plastic inner wheel arch with self tapping screws so it only covers the area infront of the wheel up to the front spoiler and engine block. Suppose it would fit on early cars.

about £25 from vw. You can also get a k@n pre-charger (I think that's what it's called), a bag to cover the filter, which protects the filter from dust. Here's a pic of the pre-charger and splash guard:

part no. 535 805 826 A

I've got one and can give you a part number if that helps?

think it might be the coolant temp sender :?

Yes they are quite different even though the operating principle is the same: Vortech has an oil feed from the engine whilst the z-charger's bearings spin in a bath of oil. Vortech step up pulley is mechanically geared whilst the z has a cogged belt setup. Vortech can handle more boost, up to 25 psi whilst the z can do 10 psi max. They both sound quite different, the z is quite high pitched and the vortech more of a mechanical whine. There are probably many more differences which I can't think of.

I had a socket put in my ecu and the bloke who did it, just turned the circuit board upside down and touched a soldering iron on the 16 points of contact and the original chip pulled out.

The vortech chargers should do at least 100k between rebuilds but it might also depend on how often the oil is changed. Z- Engineering (ZR 1) ceramic charger got a bad reputation in the US as the drive belt (2 ribbed belts) had to be extremely tight to prevent slippage but overtightening overheated the bearings leading to many failures. High tension on the alternator belt also cause the water pump pulley to break off and the early alternator bracket to snap. The ZR 2 is OK as it has a cogged drive belt and oil reservoir for lubrication and a revised alternator bracket.

I wouldn't warm the engine as you could strip the threads in the alloy but you should apply copper grease to the plug threads to prevent this.

That happened when my maf failed or could be the cam sensor. Check that the leads are properly clicked onto the plugs.

can't be v. good garages :shock:

think the turn 2 mounts are polyurethane inserts and VT are solid rubber complete replacements.

c@r enterprises in nottingham can get them.

Nice vids Henny. I think the blue Corrado is mine as I didn't get it cleanly into third and had to put it in again :oops:

I recommend the charger as the best power mod. My z - kit gives me 275bhp/240 lbft and cost £2000 and gives M3 performance. It's certainly better value than the intake/cams/chip route.

I had to supercharge mine to stop that happening :) which model was it?

Phat, what's the flexible pipe from the filter to the maf off? Btw there should be a plastic splash guard fitted below the wing which would protect the filter.

yes, a dump valve is good as it prevents air from travelling in the opposite direction in which the charger is blowing so when you get back on the throttle it boosts quicker. You can use an atmospheric dump valve between the maf and the charger.

In the pic there's a little clip which holds the cable onto the lever. You should get one with the new cable but it's definitely worth getting 1 or 2 spare.

You don't get the brass trumpet clamp but it's best to get one as the nut will probably just snap off. I'd also get a few extra barbed clips for the lever end as they can snap really easily.