corradovr6sc

I 'm having trouble starting my car. I've got fuel but haven't got spark. I've checked the relays, fuses, earths etc and they seem to be all in order and swapped my alarm/immobilser ecu for a spare with no change. So this leads me to think it's the crank sensor, ignition switch or possibly the coilpack. The battery and starter motor are ok. The trouble is I can't check the ecu for fault codes as vag-com won't communicate with the ecu. It will communicate with the abs but not with the engine :( Anybody got any ideas why I can't get vag-com to connect or are there any other things I can check? Thanks in advance :)

I think kevhaywire mentioned it in another thread and I'm sure I've read it somewhere else. Don't think I dreamt it :wink:

what kind of oil do you use? Vr6s tend to burn thin oils like 0w/5w 40 which would also explain the oil usage and leaks from the gaskets.

Sounds like the starter motor is overrunning. Mine did this for about 30k miles before finally failing though.

Yes, definitely sounds like the cable needs adjusting.

I had a new head/gasket at 80K, put the charger on at 94K and I'm now on 121k so I'm assuming a solid engine can take the extra strain placed on the engine components. The vr6 bottom end is a strong one as it was originally designed to be a diesel but the real weakpoint is the headgasket. It would be a good idea to have a compression test performed to make sure everything is within tolerence but it's not essential. If you know the head hasn't been touched it would probably be a good idea to have the top end rebuilt (and inspection of the bottom end)before putting a charger on.

I don't think anyone sells the Z kit anymore but you could try Midland VW. NS Racing/Stealth/Midland VW will sell you a new vortech kit for £2500-3000 or you could buy a secondhand kit off vwvortex for £1000-500.

A magnex cat bypass is about £90. I don't think a cat bypass does all that much though as the corrado already has a high flow cat. The ecu copes fine but the only reason for having one would be to prolong the life of the cat which are v. expensive but they don't really give any significant power gains.

Standard cams are ok with s/c or go for 256 dsr cams or schrick 248s. Mocal do a good oil cooler kit. Suggestions: Replacing oil cooler seals, replacing bits like the thermostat, seals and housing if necessary. Some good engine mounts: vf-engineering, turn2 or vibratechnics. If your doing the headgasket now, probably best to go for arp headstuds instead of stretchbolts so you don't have to replace them when you install your spacer gasket. Big brakes? Great looking car btw. Is it black or moonlight blue?

Guy's got JE pistons which I think he said cost about £1000.

Yes G H had a few Z chargers which sprung oil leaks so he switched to the VF-Eng vortech v9 kit. He's got low comp pistons (and loads of other stuff) so he can wind up the boost safely.

I had a Z-Eng for 25k miles and have now got a vortech. The Z kit is a good kit and the zr2 is the one to have but nobody sells the Z anymore although they do come up occasionally on the s/h market. The vortech is superb too, v smooth and powerful and ulimately more upgradeable than the Z (you can buy pulleys easily to increase the boost whilst the Z charger's boost is fixed). Personally I'd go for a vortech v1 or v2 as you can use the dual idler pulley (prevents belt slippage), the belt tensioning system is well designed and all the parts are available separately.

Good figures. Is that with a remap?

I bought mine in UK but they are quite rare in this country on the second hand market. If you want a s/h vortech try vwvortex.com forced induction classifieds where they appear fairly regularly and you'll still get a good bargain even with the costs of shipping and importing to UK added on.

synta gold is specified for the vr6 but the engine really drinks the stuff.

You can buy s/h vortech kits for about £1000 (I picked my V1 up for £900) leaving you money for boost upgrades and remapping etc. You want either the V1 or V2 for big power. You can buy all the bits separately too and builld a kit to your own specifications.

You can buy a GIAC chip for 268 cams.

I've raced one in my s/c vr and they are quite quick, probably slighty quicker than a standard vr but not enough difference in performance to really leave the vr trailing behind.

or you can use one of your wheel nuts.

Somewhere like here: http://www.absoluteradiator.com/Intercoolers.asp

American vr6 corrado model.

the last 68 in the part number denotes the profile. AFAIK all schrick cam part numbers start with 0268.

Densos versus bosch platinums

It's a bit confusing as VF- Engineering and AMS recommend the 1.8 16v plugs and it says in the Z-Engineering instructions that they recommend copper electrode plugs in hot countries and Bosch platinum in cooler climates. But I've read somewhere on vortex that F6 DTC's fall apart at high temperatures? Denso's are ok but are a bit pricey but I believe they do last longer. So that leaves the 1.8 T platinum plugs as a safe bet but which ones?

Yes I failed miserably :cry: so I think I'll go for the 1.8 T platinum plugs or denso iridium plugs as at least I know a supplier.