corradovr6sc

Can't find the others either.

Can't find those on http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk

stage one and a half probably :)

The correct plugs for Stage I (6 psi) are NGK R5671A-7 and Stage II (8 psi) NGK R5672A-8

The ams vortech kit recommends bosch F6 DTC in their installation instructions and many on vortex with FI use the same.

mrk 2 golf 16v plugs, run cooler apparently.

what plugs are you using btw?

12v but the 24v s/c probably runs a similar spec

I'm not sure but I'm going to be running 8-9 psi with 310 cc injectors which was the same as the AMS vortech kits using v1 and v2 blowers on 12v cars. The vf-eng kit stage 1 which uses the smaller v9 unit runs at 6 psi but running an intercooler at low boost may actually reduce power.

The vf-eng vortech kits use method 1 on late 12v and 24v engines. There are some pics of their front mounted intercooler on vwvortex but as you say, space might be limited on a corrado. How much boost will you be running? Is water injection an option? Chargecooling might be an option as it takes up less space, maybe something like this:

The engine is v. solid now so I'm sure all is well :)

Ok, thanks for that but I do think the mod I've done has improved things as the vt mount doesn't seem that rigid and can be moved around with little force. Maybe when the three are used together they provide enough stiffness to hold the engine solid. I just thought the original seemed a better design having taken it apart and seen the extra damper, although the rear mount doesn't seem to take that much force, judging by the wear on my original mount. Maybe a poly insert would have done the job equally as well.

Bought a vibratechnics rear engine mount the other day and had a few problems with the install: At the base of the original mount there's a a 'cup' with a flange on the top with 2 holes where it bolts onto the subframe and a damper (looks like a suspension top mount) which fits inside this cup and forms part of the mount. The question was, do I reuse the rubber damper or does the new mount simply bolt onto the subframe and the other bits are disregarded? Without the rubber damper and metal cup, there would be quite a bit of play in the mount as the cup and damper help minimise lateral movement. I took the vt mount apart, but the bolt which held it together was too short to incorporate the damper so I bought a longer bolt and some spacers and bolted the lot together. I fitted the cup onto the vt mount and bolted it to the subframe and refixed the engine mount bolt and it seems ok. I just wondered whether I did the right thing? Has anyone fitted this mount and had any problems? If I don't have any problems it might be a good improvement to make and I just thought I'd post it as a suggestion and let other people comment.

LOL, no. I meant reliability from the point of view that Hondas are reliable, as in always start, don't break down or fall to pieces. Smokey engines is just how they are as they drink the stuff. The examples at the pod had the tell tale brown staining on the rear bumper. They lead a hard life those engines. I 've seen at least 2 integra type-r's locally which produced big plumes of blue smoke on acceleration. A worrying sight for any car owner.

Not sure if this has been mentioned but I found that with my magnex, the metal support which is attached to the exhaust rubber on the rear silencer knocked against the jacking point (think that's what it is). On mine there is a half- round piece of rubber attached to soften the impact.

bosch F6 DTC copper electrode

0-60 I'm not sure but probably high fives or low 6s. It's not really about the 0-60 from a standing start but what it does when it's moving. No front wheel drive car is brilliant off the mark. I've done the 1/4 mile at Santa Pod in 14.2 and reckon 0-100 in under 14 secs but this doesn't reflect the real world performance.

I supercharged by rado (using a zr2) at 95k and I've just replaced it with a vortech at 120k. 25k miles of trouble free motoring. If the headgasket is ok you should be fine. Insurance: about £300 extra than what I was paying previously. Fuel: about 25 mpg average but depends on driving style. 32 achieveable on motorway journeys.

I'd go the supercharger route and if your going for the Z-eng charger get the zr2 with cogged drive belt. Avoid the zr1 or you'll be stopping every 2 minutes to tighten the belt. You don't need to modify the engine in anyway (no need for headwork, loweredd CR or intercooling) as they only run low boost.

£20 including p&p. Worth checking to make sure it has the correct end and the rubber seal is perished too but you can reuse your old one.

I've got a spare base and aerial mast. It looks exactly the same as a corrado amplifier off a mrk 4 polo and has a female connector: pic thumbnailed-vr6storm

£1500 for a s/h vortech + upgrades or £2900 for schrick goodies + rechip. Hmmmmmm

hmmmmm you'll prove me right more like :wink: you should start giving schricks away , that'll show the mods :lol: yip i'd eat humble pie then :lol: ............somehow tho........i can't see it :roll: After talking to schrick and stealthracing the prices are not much different.. To be honest its a whole lot easier to buy from stealthracing... So Ive gone a head and booked the car in for the 13 December 2004 for schrick cams268 and schrick manifold £1200 manifold £500 cams + fitting + remap = £2900 so about £1200 for a remap+fitting. No mention of valve springs............ That's quite a price.

Found out that you do have to pay tax on a gift if it's worth over £125 :( Get yourself a cheap ticket to the States and take a slighty larger suitcase :)

I think you have to factor uprated engine mounts into the price at least.