Wild-Animal

If its running lean, then that's your reason for your engine being hard to start, as the engine will run a richer mix until it has gotten up to running temperature

You can get the scraper seals from the dealer, just be sitting down when they tell you the price

if its rusting at where the rear arches meets the sills then I would say thats fairly common, their is a lip that collects all of the rubbish from the wheel arch.

Are you sure its not a wishbone bushing ?

Welcome to the world of mountain biking : )

I blasted my sub frame myself at work, we have a heavy duty grit blaster so it is a lot courser than sand blasting and it took ages, so I do wonder how long these places spend on things like rusty sub frames with a sand blaster as it would take them so long to do properly. If there is a good amount of rust on it then the sand blaster will struggle. It could be worth taking your bits and pieces to a place that has a proper grit blaster, then get them powder coated. That way you would see the results before taking it them to the powder coater.

I know for the bio diesel it goes off after a period of time. Farmers were having a bit of a time when their go to their combine after a year and all of the fuel has congealed in the filters and the lines. I believe red diesel has very little bio ness in it for that reason.

Have you checked ignition timing ? if you changed the dizzy cap did youm ake sure it was timied up properly, i. e using a timing light

So it couldnt be the hall sensor?

If you can, go on a welding course to be shown the ropes, its a lot easier to be shown how to start off. Often the hardest parts is setting the welder up correctly not the actual welding. Definitely go for a MIG welder and use gas, the gas is cheap enough and you will get far better results. I have had many years of experience of welding, cars are bit of pain so plenty of practice will help. You will also want to buy an electronic welding helmet, especially if your welding bits on cars far easier to work with. Basically means you can see through the mask when you are not welding

Hey do you happen to have the central locking pump and is it still in working condition?

They are noise, but they are considerable noisier if their is a leak, as the sytem is not pressurised then. So if there are not any leaks then dont worry about it.

Make sure the small vacumn pipe is connected to the back of the clocks, you can check to see if its connected by taking the lower dash piece out and having a look onto the back of the clocks., it connects onto where the side of the rev counter

Have you tried TPS?

Also make sure you get new washers for the fule pipe ends, if your changing the fuel filter at the same time, then again make sure you get the correct fuel washers for its connections. I just had a look on euro car parts and could not find an accumulator it could be worth phoning them up and asking as I got a genuine Bosch item from them and it was a lot less than the dealers.

hey the fuel pipes should still be availible from the dealers, I have the KR and got an accumulator from eurocarparts

There should be fuses next to the relays for your uprated headlight loom, check them if they look misty then they have moisture damage. I would say it would be the uprated healight loom causing propblems due to the countless times I have had hassle of from mine due to moisture.

I went to halfords and got the correct belt, there were two variation in sizes luckily I managed to guesstimate the right one. If you can take the belt in with you and you will be able to check yourself, plus they were not expensive either.

I wouldnt worry to much about how many gears the bike bike has, as nowadays they have plenty. if your looking second hand then use http://www.pinkbike.com/ or sourtherndowhill or gum tree The main thing with buying second hand is to make sure the running gear, i.e the chain and the rear cassette are not worn out, as to replace them will cost you £50. plus you would need the right tools.

Hey I know a lot about mountain biking and cant recommend it enough its a sport which takes you to the very edge! If your considering doing a lot of trail riding then I would recommend going for hydraulic brakes on the bike you get. The difference is huge. That would be around the £450-600 mark. Front suspension ( hardtail ) Also consider - lights for commuting - a decent lock if you dont have anywhere to keep it secure, the number of bikes that I have heard of being stolen or the locks that have been cut is astonishing. For your mountain biking. - you would probably also want a ruck sack for keeping water, spare inner tubes, patches, munchies and tools. -depending how you feel but i would recommend knee pads as well as off course a helmet. As you will find slipping of a pedal and the pedal meeting your shins is not pleasant. - As for tools either borrow them off friends or buy them as you require them heres one of the top websites for bicycles and parts http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ Any questions feel free to ask, I have been biking for a number of years between myself and friends we have replaced every part on a bike either from destroying forks or tearing rear mechs off. Hopefully you will be shredding some trails soon : )

is the inside shot blasted badly ? could you put a phot up, its a bit hard to tell without seeing it

If you can then it could be worth getting a auto electrician, save you wasting time and money finding the fault. They have the equipment.

They say your nuts.......... just ask them what the depriciation value is on their cars I bet it will be more than £700 a year.

I stand corrected then

Yeh I would be changing your fuel filter. It could be causing a strain on your fuel pump