Tattie
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Everything posted by Tattie
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Hi folks, now back after my 2 months away and bought my new head unit and multi-changer. Alpine 9813R and CHA-634. I'm now experimenting with MP3s and trying out various programs to burn them. At the mo I've got Nero and the Windows Media Player with MP3 add in. Just tried my first disk using media player - it recorded them in WMA format even though they are recorded in MP3 format. Ths will work in the head unit but not in the multi-changer (MP3 only). So what do you guys recommend using? I want to be able to increase/decrease bit rate/ size of file before burning them to disk. cheers folks ps. Any tips for using the Alpine head unit?
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Hello and welcome! First off if your charger hasn't been reconditioned/refurbished in the last 40,000 to 60,000 miles get it done ASAP!!! Very costly if it goes boom. One company over that way is http://www.kompressor-kanada.ca/ . There is also a 'sticky' message on the http://www.vwvortex.com./ forum. As for any other gen, check out the site. It is a very active site and the guys here are very helpful. Loads of good gen. There are a handful of our US and Canadian brethern on the site.
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Try Volks bits http://www.volksbits.com/ I got mine from them at the Doninigton Park Show. Although he did say FK were not going to import them in future. They did have a few sets in stock last week. Cost £175 at the show They have the M3 smoked and clear styles, IIRC. Oh the web site is pretty cr4p just use it for contact info.
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Cheers for the info guys. I think it time I went to visit one of the 'specialist' shops to see all the possible head units and get the latest literature. Lets face it some of them look pug ugly. Going to have to wait until the new year though. Thanks
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Looks good but its not for me! I want to be able to just drop a CD in and play it. It normally takes me ages to get round to burning/copying tracks to/from a PC and I want to at least be able to listen to CDs until then.
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Basically Cheesy, I'm looking at a CD multichanger package. CDR compatible and maybe MP3, possibly with a mini-disk front end. At least one pre-out for expansion if I decide to beef up my bass. If I go for a sony I want to be able to use one of those remote stalks (Had OEM one in my last few cars). Budget around £400 max. I've seen Sony packages in Halfords at £350, so you MUST be able to get them cheaper elsewhere. There are just that many Head units out there, including 'end of line' ones, I was looking for some decent info other than Manufacturers info. Is there a 'Car Hifi Monthly' or something similiar? A review website?
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Hi folks, my Kenwood head unit decided to give up the ghost and frag my CD multi-changer at the same time. Power circuit tuned for maximum smoke! well it was 6 years old! Radio bit still works after a bit of 'bodging' So I am now in the market for a new system. I have a portable mini disk player so I was considering getting a mini-disk head unit but its not essential. Still got the bog standard speakers in at the mo but want to be able to beef up the bass a bit I like the look of the new Sony head units, especially as I fancy getting hold of the remote stalk. Also heard that the Alpine systems with the AI-net are supposed to be good. Other than that I am open to suggestions. Tried hunting for a decent site that does reviews but no luck. Can you guys help me out?
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Matt, you clutch pedal could be sticking on your mats. If my mats slide forward a bit then the pedal seems to stick for a moment then releases. Took me a while to find the cause. The other possibility is that the pedal is catching on the lower dash shelf if it hasn't been fitted quite right as the clearance is quite tight. If so try loosening all the screws, adjust and then re-tightening
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Utterly Vee Duberly show, what did you guys think?
Tattie replied to Bally's topic in General Car Chat
So, it seems like its agreed, in general, to get a stand at Inters. So who do we have to speak/write to about it? How much will it cost etc? As for the building bridges, I'm a CCGB member so are Jim and Steve. No problems. I would love to help out on the organising but sadly I'm off out of the country (to the ar5e end of nowhere) for a couple of months for work. So will anyone else take on the mantle? -
Utterly Vee Duberly show, what did you guys think?
Tattie replied to Bally's topic in General Car Chat
So why not set up a Corrado Forum stand an Inters? Maybe Next to the CCGB stand, that way there are loads of fantastic Corrados for Jo Public to gawp at. Or at least get a 'club' camping area arranged. Get pissed and party!!! We've only got 6 months to organise it! -
Guys at Stealth recommended the H&R springs as they were a bit more 'refined' than the Eibach ones. Twinned with a set of Konis...... Thats my plan in the new year
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Utterly Vee Duberly show, what did you guys think?
Tattie replied to Bally's topic in General Car Chat
Lets just say the show was a hell of a lot better than the GTI Festival at Stoneleigh but wasn't as good as VW Action in September, although there were more C's at Donnington. I still managed to buy some Synta Silver Oil, Side repeaters with crystal bulbs and some M3 style smoked rear lights! Ah well, lets see what happens next year! -
Yo Jim, Was nice meetin' ya too. Got some more good gen! journey back was very uneventful and not a lot of traffic either, bonus! Weather was crap though. Really must think about that Lupo wiper mod!! I think if I'd left it any later it would have been the usual F slow drive home.
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thermal fuse from maplins cost around £3 including delivery. Just have to be able to use a soldering iron (one end of the thermal fuse only). You have to remove the shelf below the glove box. You should then see the fan in the LH corner. The shiney metal electrical connection is the fuse/resistor pack. Remove the fuse/resistor pack by levering the metal plate away from the fan housing AT THE TOP. Its held in by a bit of sealant and a plastic 'groove'. Take off the 2 connections and then you can take the fuse/resistor pack out of the car to work on. The thermal fuse looks like a resistor with a white pointy end. The connection at the white pointy end is 'crimped' to the mounting post (more like held in with a piece of bent metal clip!!). The other end is soldered on. Just replace this and away you go. I got the gen off that link too. Approx 45 min job
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Godamn, didn't realise that was Bishthefish in the yard. I spent most my time there chatting to Stevemac and the folks around the CCGB stand. Bought a few things - as you do! Rear M3 style lights and side repeaters. On checking them out on when I got home the rear LH inner light is missing the mounting screws! Bugger! Will have to see about sending them back tomorrow. Otherwise it was nothing special, bit of a dissappointment really.
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You can't go too early, otherwise you won't be able to watch England beat France in the rugby!! Match should finish around 11am, so plenty of time for the show - if you're not too far away!!
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I'm looking at replacing my seats as mine are a bit worn. Just have to be grey. I have the early interior but the door cards don't have a patten on anyway. Only problem is I'm off overseas for a couple of months (work) and won't be back until Jan/Feb Put them in the parts for sale section, you have nothing to lose.
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Its a damn sight easier to undo the three screws which hold the light in and then take the whole unit out! Thats what I did when I replaced the loom and the bulbs. Tried messing without taking them out first of course! Task Too Difficult!!!!!!!
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Yeah, its best to do it from underneath if you can get at it. To get the dash out, you'll also need to disconnect the vacuum tube for the MFA. Its at the back along with the electrical connections and speedo cable. Its only a rubber tube and will just pull off.
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Should be in stock. I think they are the same as the dash lighting ones
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Boge or Bilstein? + Brilliant priced Mechanical work
Tattie replied to Storm's topic in General Car Chat
My thoughts exactly, sounds far too cheap - even at £30 an hour (half price labour). Takes more than 2 hours to fit 4 shocks and 2 rear disks. Took me about half a day on my old golf to do the same but some of the nuts were an absolute git to get off! -
I replaced mine recently. First pull the gearknob and gaitor up complete with the plastic surround. Then unscrew the knob from the stick, the gaitor and surround might turn with it. Once off, look underneath the gearknob, there is a thick black plastic type circlip which holds the gaitor to the gearknob. Get this off with the aid of a screw driver / anything else. Don't be too gentle as its fairly tough and flexible. Once thats out the gearknob should seperate from the gaitor with no trouble. Reassemble the opposite way. The circlip is a damn site easier to put back in! A new VW gearknob costs approx £20
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Just for info, a new part for that is around a 100 quid!!!!!! You need two parts and then it has to be 'built up' somehow. Stealers commented on how much trouble they had doing it on another repair. So IMHO get them to bloody well fix it!!!!!!
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My bro has got LPG on his Range Rover (bloody big truck!!). The tanks for the gas ain't small!! About the same size as a big bazooka subwoofer. So there goes any boot space. Its also not that easy to take it out when the space is needed either. MPG is the same as before except you are using cheaper fuel. On his truck he has 3 tanks, 1 in the boot and 2 under the floor in chassis space (alright for him with his ground clearence but not for a C!) Basically car starts on petrol then after its up and running automatically switches over to the gas. Cost him a couple of grand to get it all installed.
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Hi folks, one of the guys at work has sold his VR due to lack of space for a family and has a VR6 engine for sale but it has a worn bottom end. It was using a bit of oil apparently! Question is how much is it worth - if anything - and would anybody be interested in it?? Not sure if it comes with the pumps, manifold etc but could find out