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hmmm well i dont want to buy one and it not work...although they do all look identical...need to do some research i guess, does anyone else have any ideas? Has anyone done a turbo rebuild on here? Im watching a couple on the 'bay but they need rebuilds: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250601922306&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200452900012&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT More interested in the top one Please someone tell me if im being totally stupid :lol:

Ive read somewhere that turbos from Saab 900s and renault 21s are Garret T3's and should fit on the 16v engine...is this correct? http://www.ehow.com/about_5369243_golf-turbo-conversion-information.html See sourcing the parts section

Yeah but wouldnt that mean that the dials from the late 95 model wouldnt work as it doesnt have one :lol:

Haha, i dont think that's something that im keen on tbh, especially since ive got them working as they should now :lol:

If you need the front wishbone/hub/ etc ive got one from a 95' valver and im not too far away from you (milton keynes) although hopefully its nothing too serious

No prob, thats what we're here for :)

The 30A/40A SPDT 12vDC relay will do the trick, it tells you on page 5 of the manual 'Connect the H1/4 BLACK/WHITE wire to an optional relay for interior illumination (p/n 8617 or standard automotive SPDT relay)'

Yeah will do that at the weekend its really annoying so i've had to disconnect it for the moment, means having to pull the carpet up :( Im also thinking about getting a 1 Farad Cap, supposed to help reduce distortion...do you think it would be worth it for the *possible* bass increase and reduced battery drain?

Me again! Lol. Thats normal for the ignition, mine does the same, the stereo is wired to turn on when you put the key into the ignition (without turning it) When you start the car everything turns off, this might have something to do with the starter motor using all the power from the battery to start then car (possibly a safety circuit to not short anything or drain the battery too much with everthing running at the same time), then once its started (or you remove the key from the starter position) the system feeds back to the battery/altenator...(then again i could be wrong, this is just a hypothesis) Its the same on my Xsara too... And the autolock, well we discussed that...it unlocks because the alarm ECU recognises that the car is started and the alarm needs to be turned off

The thing is though, if i am correct in my thinking it will not only auto lock but will also auto rearm...meaning the alarm could go off whilst you're driving...do you have an LED showing if it has been armed, if so when you're driving and it locks does it flash?

Yes i agree its a reasonable size yes but not as big as most commercially bought sub enclosures, as it doesnt take up floor space i can still lay things down, im thinking about changing it again slightly, as ive got a few inchs of depth to play with i can make it wider and still maintain the 0.8 cu ft that is recommended, ideally something like Jam.e.s would have been better but cash flow isnt brilliant at the moment...plus i dont think that looks the right size for the sub, which, being a 12" it seems would need more like 1 cu ft to give the optimal sound Having said that im getting alternator whine so need to try and fix this....

from what i can gather your alarm uses this relay to show that a door has been opened and that it has been turned off (the alarm) and doesnt need to rearm itself. The pin 30 is a usually a power supply for pins 87/87a for these relays and is powered by the door opening but for some reason is reversed for your alarm so that the trigger (power) comes from 87/87a and not 30. Since the door doesnt put power through the relay, the alarm doesnt think its been opened and auto locks.

Finished my stealth sub shelf and fitted it :) looks really good, almost OEM http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=90519

So the story goes i wanted some decent audio but i didnt want to lose to much boot space, i couldnt afford an audioscape boot pod nor the slim active subs so i though i'd make my own! My first attempt was bad...very bad, i tried to make my own boot pod however the space is such an awkward shape it didnt fit properly, looks like sh1t and wasnt sealed properly, it also had a habit of moving in the boot. So i though; 'instead of a stealth shelf with 6x9 why not mount the sub in there...' So i did: Parts needed to buy: Sub: 10" 250w/750w QX Aero 10....In Car Emporium http://www.incar-emporium.com/ £24.49 (inc p&p) (the sub also lights up but as its hidden i dont need this feature) Amp: 300w Sub Zero 4 Channel......Ebay £10.20 (inc p&p which was £7, bargain £3.20 amp!) Acoustic Carpet: 2m x 1m............Ebay £11.48 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Box-Carpet-Bass-Acoustic-Blk-UK_W0QQitemZ110507560705QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item19bac38f01 Various brackets etc about £10 Parts already owned: MDF Cable Headunit (thanks Novastrike!) Amp wiring cable (already in the car when i bought it) Not bad for around £55! The sub manufacturers recommended a sealed enclosure of 0.8 cu ft so i used an online calculator which helped me to work out the desired dimensions to give me the correct space. I wasnted it to sit as shallow as possible and came out with the measurements W 13.5" L 12" H 10" (the sub sits about 7" deep) and would be mounted centrally directly underneath the shelf. The amp was small enough to hide behind the n/s rear doorcard which was good as it saved boot space and doesnt take much to access. I've not got any build images only final images but as you can see its complete and fits nicely in the boot. The carpet is nearly an identical match to the OEM parcel shelf which looks really good, it doesnt take up too much boot space and is easily removable and the OEM fitted if need be. I wanted to make it so that i could still use the OEM one so it uses a metal pole to allow it to hinge, i just need some lifter pull things so that it rises with the bootlid. Audiowise it is loud but not too loud which is nice, i think probably just right (maybe a little bit more tweaking), bass set at +2 (on h/u), gain about half way and LOUD setting on (on h/u) is enough to give me what i need. The only issue i have is that when i change tracks on the CD you can hear the sub buzz...can anyone give me advice on this.... From the last picture you can see that the centre is raised slightly, this is to stop the carpet from rubbing the sub and also as i used hollow metal bars it helps to give it rigidity and strength So let me know what you think passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf100317_173709.jpg[/attachment:12bb7lxi] Im going to attach the carpet to the main sub box but havent gotten around to it yet climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf100317_175859.jpg[/attachment:12bb7lxi] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf100317_175920.jpg[/attachment:12bb7lxi] 100317_180104.jpg[/attachment:12bb7lxi]

Your guess is as good as mine but it http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=81831 Thats the back of 2 of my clusters, one without the connection, one with, strangly though the one without was a '95 M reg plate and the other one '92 J so...

yeah its simple you have to remove the whole guage cluster though which is a PITA especially if yours has a vacuum tube in the back. The bulb then twists out however you'll need a replacement before hand as the bulbs are moulded into the holders http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2x-WHITE-509T-T5-509T-Twist-Lock-Bulbs-UK-Shipped_W0QQitemZ120526081879QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item1c0fea0f57 This is the shape of the bulb (obviously you dont have to buy it from ebay i just needed the picture to show you) its a twist lock holder

Haha, thats how mine spent a lot of my ownership :( however the googlecar must have been before i owned it and before that it was sat for a year in a private carpark

Ah yes, that would help my bad! :lol:

Yeah can be done with the dash in but its easier with a mate to help, you'll need to take both the under dash shelves out and then lay in the foot well lol. I managed to do it, takes about half hour, make sure you label the cables up because they are different lengths (2 are black 1 is blue OR 1 is black 2 are blue i cant remember which)

Where are you getting it sprayed? I need to get mine done too tbh. Theres a place in Fenny Stratford called Chalky Whites, ask for Tony he did some work on Novastrikes' VR think he did o/s door, rear quarter and blended it all in for around £230ish, that included repairing the door i think as someone tried to break in and bent the door handle section out of place. He did a really good job too, one of my other mates gets all the work done for his Escort GTi there too...(yes i know its an Escort...) but ive never been there myself Im in Milton Keynes too btw, glad to see there's another local one :D

ill be interested in seeing that :lol: wonder how easy it would be...or not as the case may be

You'll also need to replace the bowden (sp) cables. The early use 'r' shaped hooks to attach to the slider controls whereas the late uses 'o' shaped hooks to attach to the dials. I had the same problem, you don't need to change the heater box behind the dash though because both early and late use the same 'o' hooks to attach to the heater box

Dude, your Rado needs TLC anyway :lol: but im sure its something that we can look at tomorrow if we have time

My rad support is nearing that :( just havent had the time to sort it yet....or find a suitable replacement part. It is easy to remove....obviously the front end has to come off...

Yeah, ive made my ABS red and im getting a blue and red headunit so theres my contrast there, im also tempted to make my heater dials red instead so that part of the dash is just red with only the switches blue (this is what i get for buying 100s of LEDs on ebay....) let me know how you get on with the mirror switch, i haven't tackled the SMDs just yet although i think my sunroof switch is knackered so might be the guinea pig for this...