h100vw

It's just a calibrated squeeze in a vice, won't correct a built in lack of fuel. The 65mm pulley and increase in capacity will prolly take your std injectors over the top. Gavin

Make your own check http://www.sns tuning.com in the diy section for the info. Or send me one and I'll do it for a tenner inc postage. You cannot just wack these chips in if the car is modded. Jabba etc assume the car is otherwise standard and write the chips accordingly. Even sns tailor their chips around different specs. Best talking to Bilal, he'll be here soon I am sure. Gavin

What did they advise when you got your SNS chip?? Most of their chips are written with 3.5 FPRs in mind. Have you got red injectors as well? I would have thought they would be needed with your 65mm pulley. Are all your vacuum lines ok, especially the one to the ECU. It should be on the top vac point on the throttle body and also be a metre long. Gavin

The sump isn't as weak as you think. Just put some carpet or rags on the pad so you don't mark it. It certainly won't bend, providing you don't try and lift the car. 13mm and 17mm underneath and 15 mm on top. Assuming it is a 16V or G60. You might want the oil filter off to improve access. Gavin

Awesome do both, I think. Gavin

$220 for 8 at http://www.Summitracing.com in fuel delivery, they are badged as fordmotorsport but made by bosch. You will need to pay extra for shipping and alsoimport duty when you receive them!!!!!!!!!!!! I do believe that g-man does them for £120 for 4. Alot less hassle, he can get you a chip too. Gavin

Bally, Davidwort is right, you need to skim the pads down as 280s are 2mm thicker than 256s. Works good enough tho. Less miles out of the pads obviously. Getting the brakets on their own might be a prob. Alledgedly Dub no longer sell them. Secondhand might be ok. early VR6 Golf Corrados and MK3 16V had them. VR6 Passat too probably. If you find the brackets might as well have the calipers IMO. Gavin

vr6corrado is correct, a bonnet switch is a cat 1 requirement. As is a boot one, battery back up siren, rolling code transmitters, auto re-arming if not started, soldered joints and 2 circuit immobiliser. The alarm should need behind at least one panel, that needs tools to remove. They should have 2 seperate earths, ign lives and perm lives. The immobiliser cuts should have at least 30cm removed from them, to prevent tealeaf from just touching them back together and doing one with your motor. The list goes on.... All alarms are only as good as the install. Thats why I dont think they can be fitted in half a day. They are all tested at Thatcham, so any that has Cat 1 status should be a reliable and simple to use system. Gavin

My preference for pads would be Pagid fast road or the ordinary ones if you are never going on a track. After that EBC greenstuff are good too. Again I'd say they are more of a race pad than a road one. Get your brake fluid changed too, especially if you have no idea if/when it was last done. I had drilled Zinc disks on my Golf from Dubsport. They were good but I felt they wore out pretty quick. I now have some std VAG 280s that I got from a mate at Awesome. They came off a customers C, he was having drilled fitted and there was nowt wrong with the ones coming off!! I have done a couple of trackdays and have no complaints about them. I personally think they are a bit of a pub talk think really. The benifits not really outweighing the cost. If you want better brakes get yourself some 280s off a G60 or a VR. Might be a few more quid but certainly a bigger improvement over 256s. Of course thats just my opinion. And opinions are like ar$eholes, everybody has one! :D Cheers Gavin

On top of Hennys post, Quantum alarms were mainly made by Scorpion. Most of them are now pretty old and not that electronics wear out but they do make them more compact these days. Most Cat 1 alarms will not feature a tlit or shock sensor, these are often the culprits giving off false alarms. I do a bit of fitting and use GT. Their stuff is small and simple to fit. When you are running round for prices ask how long it'll take. If the reply is a morning or afternoon I'd question the quality of the install. I usually take at least 5 hours, depending on the car and accessories fitted. There should be no need for additional modules on a C. It has total closure anyway. The only extra I like fitting is a microwave sensor instead of ultrasonics, they are less prone to false alarms if you leave airvents open or park your car in the sun. Gavin

VR6-er, agreed. Defo not worth the effort. Take them off, skim, refit. Still judders, off to GSF for new ones! Could also be a partially seized caliper. The pads rubbing may have overheated the disk and warped it. Looose wheel bearings sometimes give you an intermittent bad/long pedal, as the pads sometimes knock the piston back further than normal. Gavin

Mine runs on XP no probs. The resolution is important or it won't load at all. Then you need to drag and drop the crack files onto the hard drive. They replace 2 files that are installed. Click replace existing. If anyone needs any more help,wink, PM me. Gavin

W6DPO are platinum and they last for eons cos they erode really slowly. Standard plugs are past their best in 10K. Gavin

Nigel, did you let it run for a while until the probe warms up? And not trying to have you suck eggs, it's connected to the output and not the power? Gavin

Yeah they all go on. I don't think the 16V is 20mm lower than an 8V though. Gavin

I can't see brake fliud improving matters? Never heard that, sounds like a bit of pub talk to me. Cheapest option has to be the guides. Pulling the engine to re ring it would be a nause. Rethink, cheapest option. Drop the oil out and put some quality mineral oil in it. Quantum blue? Monitor the consumption and go from there. If it's still high get the guides done. Gavin

Vise grips to crush it. Make sure you have the right one to fit though first. Or do it outside the dealer so you can go back in for a second go! I think it could be bonded on like the 16V. Gavin

I bet it's only a half hour job with the right facilities. Me, I'd just prevent it from getting worse and leave the bonnet down :lol: Let me know if you want another though. I have a few good contacts. Awesome. Gavin

The bar itself is called a cross member by ETKA. Part number 535 199 171H. You will need to support the engine, as the subframe with the engine mount on, needs to come out to release the cross member. The part number is different to a G60/16V so it may be a VR only part. Clean of the rust and treat it wth waxoyl. Keep your eye open for a replacement. Gavin

Alex, you are right. You can't beat a well set up electronic management system. I have to laugh when I see folk spending a grand on carbs, they get the same power and far worse fuel economy than if they had stuck with K jet. Don't get me wrong I like the sound but a grand could do a lot for a 16V, headwork cams etc. Money far better spent. My VSAM was the pro, which could do the fuelling too. Honestly though, running with and without the fuelling made no difference when measured by the 'butt dyno'. Not worth the hundred extra over the ordinary set up. The bit liked most was going to a trackday, finding that you were losing time having to change into 4th when staying in 3rd and keeping on the gas would be better. I pulled out the laptop and advanced the timing more above 6500 before pulling it back loads at 7200, which acted like a rev limiter cos the power just died away. Mapping an 8V ECU would take a bit of time which is of course money, VSAM/k-star are just 'cheap' fixes for a built in design issue. Cheers Gavin

Most of the front end mechanicals are identical. I would expect the rad and fan to be the same. What do you need exactly? Gavin

The 9A has KE Motoronic. This system can control fueling as well as ignition. The KR engine has K Jetronic and is a different kettle of fish, it is true that the injection is mechanical and that the ECU cannot be chipped( No one has bothered??) I had a KR(1800) C and fitted VSAM to it which made a world of difference. However, the ECU for the 9A can be chipped. The fuelling is controlled at the fuel distributor by altering the KR equivalent of the control pressure. The 9A management is far more sophisticated than the KR, as it has to be accurate enough to meet emissions, as they are all fitted with cats. Alex, is your 2.1 based around a KR or 9A engined car? Both do have control over the amount of fuel injected. The amount that the air flap is displaced by the airflow, is set by the shape of the bowl( can't think of a better term) that the flap is sat in. This alters the amount of fuel injected. Fine tuning can be achieved, within limits, by changing the fuel pressure, control pressure and also at individual cylinders too, by adjusting the feed to a particular injector on the metering head. Electronics has certainly made tuning easier but for a mass market both Kjet and KE motronic are very good and pretty reliable systems.. IMHO Gavin Oh yeah if you do spend your money down the pub, don't drive home. :lol:

Lift the gaiter round the gearstick. Make sure there is a circlip holding the stick onto the pivot. I had one broken on a Passat and that gave loads of slop and made it difficult to get reverse too. Gavin

Don't ask me why, but if you want the motor to do the hard work for you, rotate the cover so that it hides the thingy. There is a switch connected to the cover, to stop you having your fingers off, if you use the switch with the allen key in. Ingenius and the cause of many unnecessary motor replacements!! :shock: Gavin

What oil are you using???? Have tyou had mineral oil in and then changed to synthetic?? What weight is it? Old dub engines use oil if its too thin. My mk1 2 litre used a litre every 1000 miles on synthetic and next to nothing on mineral. Gavin