h100vw

The VW parts catalogue. I have the 2003 model year on CD. It's a must have!!!!!!!! Gavin

To have it more accurate you need a wideband Lambda probe. One that will give an output over a larger range. http://www.lambdaboy.com/ Check this out. Gavin

There is a difference between voltage and capacity. Each cell produces 2 volts and if you were to strap a load across a flat battery, it would pull it down to less than 12. Although with a couple of minutes to recover, it may show 12 volts on a voltmeter. Your thinking is right in less than half those 900odd hours the battery would be unable to provide the juice for a start. Stevemac also has a point, the cold reduces the efficiency of a battery no end. Cold oil would make it harder to start too. That's why a lot of new Dubs have battery warmers. Gavin

Big spanner and if you have a piece of poly vee belt, you could grip the pulley in a vice or with some big pipe grips. Gavin http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=297812 Have a look at this thread from vortex. Chuffing pictures have gone. Do a search on vwvortex.com. There are plenty of pics there. If you have Broadband I could email you some. PM me

Just had a look at ETKA and both 16V Corrados have a vac hose to the ECU. Thats how they sense 'load'. Without it the timing advance would never change. The VR and 2 litre 8V have throttle pots which the EU uses to sense 'load' on the engine. You could try running with the filler cap off, that would prove whether the tank being in vacuum is causing the fault. I doubt it is the problem. Gavin

If the vac line to the ecu were blocked/leaking/disconnected the timing would never change. The car would run perfect but produce no power. You could check the fuel delivery, a Golf haynes manual would tell you how. Basically the pump should supply about a litre in 30 sec or summat similar. There is however a world of difference between pressure and flow so you need to check both really. I can't remember if any/some 16V Corrados have a lift pump or not. That can produce similar symptons. OK tickover but no power under load. It usually makes the main pump noisey as it is working harder. Eventually the main pump will fail due to the extra work asked of it. Gavin

Steve, Assuming you have a battery that can supply 65Ah( 65 Amps for 1 Hour). Divide 65 by .07A. That gives you 928 hours. Divide that by 24 to get days. That comes out at over 38 days. If you were to leave the interior light on it shouild flatten the theoretical battery in 3 and half days... What voltage are you getting across the terminals? Could be you have a bad cell in your battery? Gavin

Awesome can supply D&W products. Anything in the catalogue. They usually have the braces in stock. I got my bottom one from them. They ordered it in but it only took a week. Gavin

It goes hard when you have no assistance. Each time you pump the brakes you use a bit of the vacuum in the servo. If you have ever driven an early Polo you'll know what unassisted brakes feel like. A couple of folk on here or G60power have had the pressure switch fail on their ABS pump. The light comes on and you need to be Arnie to stop the car. Gavin

Can't say about the locks for sure but the central locking and total closure will still work, as the alarm will be connected inside the car. Gavin

I go with a bad sensor. Gavin

You can do the brakes just like your old Beetle mate. Just make sure the ign is off and de-pressuirse the system by pumping the pedal 20 times. Gavin

Dan, the H4 is your dip and main beam in one bulb. The H3 is for the spotlights, which come one with the main beam. Leave the spot at 55W, 80/100 is the max I think you need in the H4. "Assuming they were legal, blah blah etc etc" Gavin

Jez, that's not one of my looms. I have two relays in mine one for dip and one for main beam. I think it's Bananaman off this forum that makes that one. I have put them on abay in the past but won't be doing so anymore. On the big bulbs front. I'd say if your lights are set correctly plod probably wouldn't notice. Of course I am going to add a disclaimer to that. Who is plod going to pull, you with your big bulbs obeying the speed limit? Or the spotty kid in the Nova/Corsa/Saxo/Fiesta etc etc with blue washer jets/neons/gangsta tint/16inch backbox. :shock: Geordie accent in the style of Big Brother "You decide". :lol: Keep it under a hundred........... Gavin

My ETKA says, position 12, bottom right of fuse box. part number is 191 906 383C. It's prolly black. The number on the front is for quality assurance so they can check the relays easy without taking them out. I am not sure what it should be, sorry. gavin

The waterpump can leak water out but I reckon you would see it. Not sure if this applies to Cs without checking on ETKA but 16V Golfs used to have a thing on the water pump pulley which allowed it to slip until the car warmed up a bit. The lack of drive circulated the water slower to speed up the warming process. I had a Golf that rattled for 5 mins when cold. There might be one on yours and it could be Knacked? Gavin

40MPG, luxury. Might have to try that one day. Average about 27 going to work. Always set off with good intentions of trickling in, someone usually needs 'showing the way' and best laid plans go out the exhaust!! :lol: Gavin

Could be a bad X contact relay. Can't advise which one it is off the top of my head. Gavin

I can't see a bad slave cylinder making it stiff. If it were to fail it would get easier to push as the fluid escapes around the seals inside. You would find that the car would begin to creep, if it were in gear and you held the pedal down. Where does the clutch bite, top or bottom of travel? If it's high up the clutch could be worn. Could be the pivot inside the bell housing, would benefit from some lube. Gavin

You can tee it off the vacuum hose to the clocks inside the car. That's probably the easiest place. Gavin

Nick, the wire for the oil pressure sender is tied back on top of the oil filter housing. Blue and white I think. That will be floating around by the fusebox somewhere. The voltmeter you could connect to any ign live. The fan supply or something would be in centre console nearby. You only need to get hold of an oil pressure sender. They are around £30-35 new or you could check a few Audis in the scrappies. 80 Sports and a lot of the Coupes had the three gauges fitted. 17mm spanner to undo it. Gavin

Have a look on http://www.thinkauto.com for anything you need. I bought a full kit for my G60 for £125 2 years ago. Gavin

If you have bust a stud. You will need the inlet manifold off, to have any chance of recovering the situation. Don't pull the engine, until all other avenues have been explored!!! Dont worry about busting other studs, they can usually be removed with molegrips or a stud extractor once the manifold is off. Assuming they are not flush with the head. New studs can be got from most motor factors. A good idea to renew the lot and get new nuts too. Let us know if you need more info. Gavin

Dalek995, I think you'll find that the tool, you need to take off the pad carrier is an 8mm allen key. I would also recommend that you lever the piston back into the caliper before taking it off. Much easier while it is connected to the hub. You may need to draw some fluid out of the reservoir, if it gets too high. Halfords would have the allen key. I would say one that you can use with a ratchet handle is best. Dan I wouldn't go pulling a working caliper apart. You could cause yourself a world of hurt, if you don't know what you are doing. The best thing to do IMHO is do a complete fluid change. Especially if you have no idea when it was last changed. Brake fluid is hydroscopic(sp), it absorbs water. This lowers the boiling temperature, which will increase the chance of brake fade/spongy pedal. The water in the fluid can also corrode the inside of the calipers. Neither of which is very good. Gavin

Defo a bum job that. Easily take 3 hours before you have it running again. Worth changing belts while you are doing the job. Not a lot of extra time to add on. Gavin