h100vw

Take the door cards off and the window motors then crank the windows up by hand. stick the motors back on to stop the glass falling back down. Shut the sunroof with the manual handle behind the switch. Then lock all the doors and boot with the key. Gavin

The bits cost about 50 quid. If you would consider doing a head gasket yourself then IMO you would have the abilty to do the belt no problems. Gavin

A lysholm kit will cost enought to get at least 2 if not 3 rebuilds on the charger. Thats well over 100 000 miles of use. No contest for me. If it turns out to be worn beyond sorting then it would be back to the drawing board IMO. Gavin

Charger rebuilds are the only thing that people are scared of TBH. Just makes sure you have it done/checked asap if there is no eveidence of it being off the car ever. It needn't be a problem as long as you keep on top of it. I can offer advice as I don't live far away, near Haydock. Gavin

It's subject to a chicken and egg rule that belt. Did it break through old age which then let the displacer get out of time. OR did it break as a result of the bearings in the top of the charger seizing, while the displacer kept rotating driven by the engine?????? From what Pitstop have told me, they think most failures are down to bearings seizing, which is possibly true as Jabba replace all items 'that require replacement' ie not everything! Gavin

Thats the one. Skinny PVC and a piece of rubber by the cluster. Gavin

The pipe will be off under the dash is the mostly likely scenario there. Gavin

PM dave EDIT. Tool time, postman shows up a day late with my thread chasers. Just need to crossed thread something now to check them out. I'll start with the lawn mower rather than cripple the Passat. :lol:

Here's another thought. With the 2 exhaust cams, I would expect the manifold pressures are different to the std cams. That might influence the MFA readings. Top up to to up is the best way to calculate MPG. Gavin

Tom the idle screw may be in too far. Disconnect the red/black wire by the coil and see what happens. I think it'll stall. If it does wind the screw out a couple of turns and start again. Keep trying until the idle is good and steady. Then reconnect the wire. Gavin EDIT I used to get better than 30 mpg from my Corrado with exhaust cams and VSAM on the run up and down to Gatwick. Late at night and early in the morning so usually at warp speed.

Oil level in the sump could be low and the cornering is sloshing the oil away from the pickup. Is it worse in one direction over the other. The cure is a baffled sump and windage tray from a TDI. Or, of course, more oil. :mrgreen:

I think the idle screw has wound it's way out. Or maybe the garage don't know how to set the tickover?? You need to warm the car up, 80degrees oil temp. Then disconnect the RED/BLACK wire by the coil. Adjust the tickover with the screw to about 850ish. Then reconnect the red/black. Try that first before we set about your other snags. Gavin

Noted leon :thumbleft: . And should anyone damage a few, I did infact replace all of mine with stainless, so I have the originals on the bench. Gavin

corradowales, Could be... [/Hong Kong Phooey] oh yeah..... swap the plugs with the black sender see if its different. Buy that meter from Aldi so you can measure it!! Gavin

Why new bolts leon? These ones don't stop working after the first time? 8) Gavin

Dave, get to ALdi for a voltmeter. 5 quid bargin. I bet that lad was stunned to have a 'rush' on thread chasers yesterday. He'll be on to his suplliers for a load more that'll probably never sell! :cry: Gavin

Which 16V? Gavin

Back from Costco. They have a T3/150SRB for 352 inc VAT. 3 hp motor and a set of air tools. Impact gun, die grinder and accessories and a 1/2 inch Air ratchet. I guess the tools are worth 50 quid. If you are interested Cai let me know they open late most nights til 8 Gavin

he did and has left me feedback.

Stan, I bet if you go to a concert on the train, someone'll get that stereo out for you before you get back. Gavin

Plenty of different length allen keys makes it easier. Disconnect the battery. Remove alternator and airbox. 6mm allen key 13m bolt and I think a 21-22 bolt. 5mm allen keys for the pipework on the inlets of the charger. Remove silencer box and bin, get alloy outlet from Gwerks :mrgreen: Compress belt tensioner with a couple of big jubilee clips joined together Remove tensioner, 13mm nuts and bolts Undo 2-3 6mm allen bolts on the right of the charger and the tucked away 13mm that holds the steady bar. Disconnect the oil feed pipe 13mm I think. And the return, 14mm. 4 more allen bolts on the pulley side of the charger should just about do it. I usually undo the right mount from the engine to create some space. Probably take you an hour or so depending on how you struggle and the array of tools you find you haven't got :cry: I should consider doing the cam belt and tensioner while you have everthing off. If you are minted a new water pump might be an idea too.. Might as well do a PS belt too. And even a crank pulley bolt?? Gavin

Not at all, but as I don't need one this afternoon I can wait til the morning for mine to arrive. You might want to have a ride around any local motorist type shops? You could try an engineering tool place as well. Take a plug with you for them to compare the threads. An ordinary tap will do the job just as well but with a bit more swarf. Picture me sat in the porch waiting on the postman from 6am when the kids wake me up. :roll: GAvin

preston car audio blackpool road, no good if your in the flat lands though eh>> :lol:

If the pipe is damaged or missing the ECU won't know what the load on the engine is and can't issue teh sparks accordingly. Big throttle openings at low revs are the hardest for it to cope with in my experience. If you try to accelerate with a tiny bit if throttle it can usually handle that. Once the revs climb to about 4k it seems to have less effect for some reason. As they have changed the air filter, check the pipework is on straight and not cockeyed and also that there are no airleaks. A set of leads may help but it could also be a biggish un-necessary expense. I would look for cheaper fixes first(Yorkshire :roll: ). Rotor arm and Cap in good nick and fitted correctly and the carbon contact in the middle free to move. gavin

Just to be on the safe side I have bought the other size as well. Prettf sure you want the big one 14-18 mm, the other will be for motorbikes and mopeds I think. can never have too many tools though :mrgreen: