h100vw

It is correct up to chassis L 00 5732 which is 2 years before yours I'd say. I think you should be looking for a 1H0 919 651Q which is a 4BAR in tank pump which has the fuel gauge sender attached to it.. Its teh same pump as a VR of teh same age. Also fitted in MK3 Golfs and a load of Passats. Gavin

It tells you how in the user manual.... Did on my S plate anyway. Gavin

357 857 231 01C blanking plate in satin black 191 857 233 LN9 a cubby hole thing like Garry mentioned in some other kind of black. Gavin

I have had Weitec suspension on 3 of my cars in the past. A mk1 GTI, Corrado and G60 Golf. I got the kits from C&R. The Corrado kit I took off when selling the car and fitted it onto my Golf. Speak to Steve Cresswell at C&R he'll tell you the score. The TA stuff is also adjustable for height at the back so you can get it level. I rate it highly but bare in mind that the kits are quite stiff and some are very low. This wasn't a problem for me as I was into track days and generally driving fast everywhere :roll: . Comfort wasn't at the top of the list!! :mrgreen: A mate of mine also has teh basic non adjustable stuff on his mk3. He moans that it's too hard but I think he is just being soft. His other car is an A4 avant. I really like the way it rides better than the Eibachs and Bilsteins I have on my mk3, which actually cost me more money :cry: gavin

gman or John Mitchell will prolly answer the boost thru ISV Q. The timing is picked from a reference table(the map) in the ECU. This is based on engine load/temp/speed etc. The knock sensor is just another influence to the ECU. Knock is detected and the ECU picks a timing value to prevent the knock, Then it will slowly advance the timing again as long as no knock occurs. For me there is no point whatsoever in having a seperate ign computer and having the std ECU do the fuel. If you want to mess with the timing, you need to be able to do the fuelling as well. The 2 go hand in hand. You can have your std ECU mapped any way. Your std chip is read into a laptop and the laptop hooked into the std ECU. This runs the car while the operator alters the maps for timing and fuelling. When finished the map is burned to another chip and fitted to the std ECU again. Job done and you are 3-400 quid lighter. If you plan on making loads of 'stage' modifications to your car over time. The addition of a number of 400 quid remaps will tot up and may make it worth going to standalone management. However, be under no illusion that setting up a car from scratch is a sunday afternoon job!!. Gavin

The alarm uses the original door switch to sense if the door is opened. I would hazard a guess that opening the passenger door doesn't turn the interior light on. If it does then they may have isolated the drivers door from the passenger one for some reason?? Gavin

Thats cool. :)

Pablo, PM me if you are interested in a loom. Gavin

VW used to do waisted bolts to get more camber adjustment on MK2 chassis stuff. If it is too negative then try adjusting the other side to match. Then set the tracking. Gavin

Try running a piece of wire from the earth on the battery to the Brown wire at the bulb and see what happens. Gavin

If I was a better geek I would post the picture for you. Like Olly says athere is a hole to screw it into. Gavin

ETKA calls it a fastener. Is it not the damper/spring thing that pops the boot open a touch when you press the release? Gavin

A mate of mine has a K plate Golf 16V in Tornado Red which is a 3 door. The only others I have seen on a K were White. Gavin

Is there a VW part number on it? Gavin

Wasn't engine flush invented for the CVH engine? :mrgreen: Have you ever seen one that wasn't full of nasty black sludge? Gavin

Search for w6dpo on ebay there is a geezer always selling them for 20quid. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... eName=WDVW Gavin

This could easily be a wheel sensor fault. A good idea to try cleaning the sensors and the rotors. Soemtimes muck on either can confuse the system at slow speed due to low/inadequate output. If you try a search there have been plenty of ABS threads, detailing sensor checks etc. Gavin

You need the back end from a Rallye, that's how Awesome have done them in the past. Maybe a regular syncro would do?? They un stitch the rear floor at all the spot welds and do the same with the back of the C. Swap the floors over and then weld back to gether. Not 100% whether the strut tops stay with the car or come on the floor?? Gavin

The best thing I have to say about the Syncro system is that rear brake discs are a fiver each! :mrgreen: Thats where the plus points end :roll: Everything else costs more. :cry: I have done about 250 quid in petrol since Tatton Park. :cry: Gavin

'Oh yes'. In a Churchill dog styleee. :lol: Gavin

160000km is 100000 miles, either way it needs servicing. Where in the world are you??? This would affect who can do the job for you. Plenty of places in Germany and Holland. Or Pitstopdevelopments and gwerks in the UK. Gavin

When you disconnect the blue plug the engine should not die, as it sounds like yours is. To set the tickover, disconnect the blue plug, adjust the screw on the back of the throttle body til the car idles on its own. Then reconnect the blue plug. You need to do this with the engine warm really, so be very careful as the inlet manifold will be pretty hot. The ISV controls the tickover with signals from the ECU. When the ECU detects the throttle is closed, microswitch on the throttle body, it maintains a steady tickover by opening and closing the ISV. Any load on the engine, such as turning the steering wheel or turning on electrical accessories, will require the ISV to open briefly to prevent the PS pump/accessory causing the engine to stall. When the steering comes to rest then the ISV will close again to prevent the engine speed increasing too high. You cant make any other adjustments really, until the engine runs with the plug disconnected. Setting the mixture screw to 500 ohms is a nominal value that works for 90% of cars. This is NOT a substitute for adjustment of the mixture, with reference to a CO meter. But as not everyone has access to one, then it will be adequate in most cases. For finding a vaccum leak I often use WD40. Squirt some around the gasket joints. If the engine sucks a bit in then the revs will rise slightly/the engine note will change. If the leak is not on the manifold then you could try a solution of washing up liquid, make it pretty thick and apply it to all the joints from the charger onwards. Rev the engine, any leaks will cause bubbles to form and Bob's your uncle. This won't work on the inlet manifold as the bubbles will be out of sight!! :mrgreen: Also, is your ECU pipe a metre long? Most important point that! Gavin

Did you turn the screw out??? When you disconnect the blue plug the idle stab valve doesn't control the tickover. This allows you to set it and the ISV can then do its job properly. Gavin

If it starts to die when you disconnect the Blue temp plug, Wind out the tickover screw til it holds. Reste this when you have done the timing. Gavin

G60 pads not so thick I reckon. Gavin