fendervg

Please use 2 x axle stands and wheel chocks for your own safety! Depending on the variation, the filter will either be held on with a round steel loop band with a bolt to tighten it, or a plastic cradle that it sits in, which has fixings on the corners that you need to undo to drop it. The loop band cradle type is often rusted to bits or seized if the filter has not been touched in years. First pic is the combined pump and filter housing, second is the VR6 style filter.

Pierburg will have a blue fuel level sender on it, with different mounting and loom connections - the VDO one is white and slots into the side of the swirl pot. So depending on pump, you will need the matching sender unit - as the Pierburg pumps are no longer made, this means buying a sender as well when replacing with a VDO or "VDO style" pump. It is possible to jury rig the old sender on to the new swirl pot, but not ideal - also if it is just the pump that has failed, it's possible to open the swirl pot and just replace the pump unit with one of similar dimensions. Somewhere on the Internet, there is a site that sells a billet mounting that fits inot the OEM rubber pads in the tank bottom and allows you to use a Bosch motorsport pump body with more fuel pressure than you will ever need! The main thing, as already said, is that you get a 4 bar pump for the 2.9 VR6 (ABV).

It's a bit of a pain alright - another reason why som upgrade to the later ABS system - this does away with the brake pedal sensor.

Sounds like the residual pressure was not holding, so the pump would have to build up the pressure again during starting.

Sounds like the mech is broken - most likely the lhs cable guide has snapped. There are at least early and late versions of the motor - some Mk3 ones fit. Best bet is to get the part# off your existing one and try and cross reference online.

Have you tried operating the sunroof with the allen key? It should slide back ok - if not, it's a sign of a broken mech or cables, or one about to break - most common symtom being tilt but no slide, and the lhs side one seems to go more often. Also sounds like your motor could be on it's last legs, probably overworked trying to shift a seized mechanism.

It runs from each corner of the sunroof cassette. There is a small plastic host attached to it which runs down the inside of the A pillar, into the scuttle area and out of the drain channel near the wing.

Also the sunroof drain as well as the door membranes. The water will pool at the lowest point, so it can be hard to work out where exactly it's getting in - but doing the seal on the fresh air intake is a good call. The issue is you will need to remove at least the right one of the three piece lower window edge trim, and this is most likely stuck on with sealant, which will have to be very carefully cut off so as not to damage the glass. Originally from the factory each panel is held won by a couple of two-piece plastic clips, but as these are old and brittle they are likely to break during removal - but replacements are easily got online.

Ha- "Stark Industries"! They must be having a laugh, or else it's a play on the German, "stark" meaning "strong", or in slang cool/sound/great.

Haha. In Ireland the premiums only ever go up!

With AXA on a classic policy here in Ireland, €290 fully comp with two drivers and claims protection. Need to have a daily insured with them though.

Based in Germany, seems completely legit. If they list on fleabay.co.uk they should be willing to ship? Could be an issue with the carrier, so maybe ask them to ship DP/DPD standard post. I get stuff from Germany all th time, alebit to Ireland, but I use an AdressPal service in the UK and US for sellers that won't ship internationally and just pay a surchage for the final leg.

Seems strange - from where? They just need to declare a customs value - it’s more likely the shipping agent they are using.

that's a good idea - I've only kept mentioning it because that is what seemed to sort my warm start problems after replacing and checking nearly everything else. The non-return valve and a new FPR fixed the cold start long cranks. I don't think the relays would be the cause - they'd either work or not, or give you lots of other problems, but they are cheap, so no harm in replacing.

My bet is on the cam/hall sender, unless it’s already been replaced.

Get a Sealey pressure bleeder that has the pump in the reservoir - never had any issues - and make sure that you bleed the ABS pump, clutch slave and master and the brake master in order, finishing at the brake master, after doing the callipers and alternating n/s and o/s. The idea is that you gradually work your way towards the highest point in the system. To be honest, none of these older cars have a great pedal feel anyway, because the mechanical advantage is just not there at the servo. Vacuum leaks and weeping seals in the pistons don’t help much either.

Yep, it’s possible. Access is easier with them off, but you will likely break them or crack the windscreen trying to get them unstuck. I’ve replaced mine with an SWG one piece panel. Don’t forget to u do the bolt on the bracket to the firewall near the wiper motor. It’s well nigh impossible to get the motor off with the wiper mech in place.

I think the pressure is holding fine - I went through all this testing about 4 yrs ago and the results were pretty similar to yours - I do remember the NRV making a big difference to the residual pressure.

When you say "crank sensor", do you mean the cps at the front bottom of the engine? The other component I ended up replacing was the cam (hall) sensor, for my car it came with a new dizzy, but on the coil pack cars it is a seperate part - worth checking. The issue is often that there are numerous sensors that have to work in tandem with the ECU to get everything as normal, and an incorrect or intermittent reading from one of them can throw things out.

I had this - long cranking when cold and warm, and the non-return valve fixed it for me, would definitely recommend it anyway. As far as I know, this was actually a recall at one stage, and you will come across a number of cars with the valve retrofitted by the dealer with an official VAG part number.

Is the issue that the drain section can't be removed or that the old cap is in 3 parts?

Any of the other standard VAG alloys of the time - Passat/Golf/Vento, Mk2/Mk3 - 5 stud or 4 stud? Original wheels were 15". They are not really that hard to find, plenty online and at breakers - German fleaBay always has a big selection.

Welcome to the forum - tell us more and some pictures as well please. Probably not too many Corrados in Greece.....

The letter suffix can indicate either a different variation of the part for a different car/engine, or a supercession - generally though a superceded part would have it noted in the VAG parts database. 021906265A is listed as the correct part for the 2E engine, the B variation is listed for the Golf/Vento, so hard to say if it would be correct but it might work, but you would have to take a punt on it. Is there a part number on your old one? It might also be worth getting in touch with a Bosch distributor to check.

You need an uprated headlight loom and something like Osram nightbreaker bulbs. This would be a pretty standard solution for most okder VAG cars which all suffer from this problem. You can relay just the low beams, or the high beams as well - and it's easier if you use original connectors, ideally the more relays the better so that each side has it's own relay for fault tolerance - so look for 3 or 4 relay options. There's usually a few options available on eBay and the web if you search for "Corrado" and "headlgiht loom". There is also an intermittend group by organised on this forum or on the FB pages for loom upgrades made to a very high standard by a member (kurzy is the user name I think?). Try a search on here and it should throw up one of the more recen threads.