fendervg

Only seems to show two different versions for the ABV engined cars - with air con or without

The AC cars would have had a different fan control module installed, with an extra stage, and there would be additional wiring. There is also a different third temperature sensor in the thermostat housing for AC cars - I forget the colour, but it would be 4 pin.

That's normal behaviour - remember it's a car desgined in the mid '80s, so no self opening tailgates - hell, there's not even a gas strut on the bonnet.If you try lifting the tailgate with no struts installed and consider the angles involved you'll see why.

They all seem to be like that - I’m beginning to suspect it may even be a trick they learned in the factory….. Reason I say this is I’ve seen a good few cars where the etchings and codes on the windscreen matched all the windows, so still original, and there was still silicon used. Where did you get the two mounting screws? Was it Classic Parts?

Was that inlet elbow designed for the Corrado? Most of the ones I've seen are for the AAA VR6 in the Mk3 Golf, and don't fit properly or foul the strut tower when fitted into the Corrado engine bay. I guess if everything else lines up, get it shortened to match what is ther eat the moment. Probably not something to do at home and worth going to a machine shop for unless you are set up to do it yourself.

Think they are just a GPS unit with a SIM installed that you can conceal within a valuable item and send it's location back to the coud, same as "find my whatsit" feature. They are quite large for what they are, and the differrence with a tracker is that it would probably be powered off the vehicle battery with a backup in the unit. It's easy to use a scanner to detect a 2/3/4G or GPRS emitter though, so really depends on what kind of thives you are up against - would easily locate a car stolen for a joy ride or before it was prepped for resale or stripping.

A lot of the info is still here if you search. If you use the advanced options it's pretty powerful. Any photos or pictures that were hosted externally are likely gone though - that's not to do with the forum, but with the hosting sites. Some old links are dead, and sometimes a link to an older topic in the archive doesn't work, but I'm not sure what can be done about that.

A really fexible and sharp putty knife can work, if you get it in at the top - just be really careful not to put any pressure at all on the windscreen, bearing in mind that the bottom of the screen will be hidden under the top of the trim. If you can thread it through to the other side, a thin guitar string or some cheese wire could work too.

Wurth sell black plastic dye and trim restorer that comes in a big tub (a bit like grease) and this has always worked pretty well for me - a thorough wash and then a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol has usually worked for me before applying the restorer. I went for the SWG in satin black, and think it works great - but I've kept my old trims along with new replacement clips in case I ever want to go back as well. Had a complete nightmare getting them off.

I'd strongly recommend opting for a one piece cover - something like the SWG motorsport one. Easier to put on and remove if you need to do work underneath the scuttle or replace the scren - the 3 piece trim with the clips is very hard to get on or off without damage to the clips or the trim, hence there's often sealant underneath, which is a right pain to remove. I guess if you want to keep it all original, it's worth the hassle. Did you end up buying some of the 3D printed clips? The trim itself is long NLA as far as I know.

Still here too. Always preferred the forum - used to have mod rights too but got lost somewhere along the line.

An earlier type motor won't fit the later sunroof cover trim - the earlier motors are larger. It's also possible that the prevous owner sourced a replacement motor from a different VAG car with the same pin-out, which will mate up and operate the mechanism. Is there a part# on the unit you have?

For the 16v engine there is also a MkiII Gofl Bentley - or one of the Haynes for Golf/Passat that covers the engine will probably give you enough info to work with. The Bentley really onyl covers US market models, so only the AAA and G60 engines, so is not always that useful or engine or wiring stuff, but most everything else is the same.

Injector leak-down is a good shout, also worth checking residual fuel pressure is not dropping too quickly. Some on here had some success resolving long crank times using a non-return valve on the fuel pump feed, but there are so many variables and components that could be old and faulty in the loop that it can take a bit of time to track down.

If you are the thread owner, go to the first post in the thread and click "Edit" at the bottom - this should let you change the title. One of the moderators should be able to make it sticky too.

Great stuff - step 13, the 3 bulkhead bolts (although in reality they are shouldered bolts with a shouldered nut and captive washer) is vital - if they spin instead of coming off you may as well give up or allow a full extra day to get them out - you can remove the matrix with them in place if needed, but cutting them off is tricky due to access - in the end I had to jam a hex driver under the bulkhead and use another on the firewall side to break them free. They can be hard to source as well, but are common for all Mk2 cars.

The lights might just be that the bilbs have burned out and need replacing hopefully. Does the rest of the dash lighting work?

I think someone else on here had the same issue with a heater matrix not fitting, being a little too tall - what brand did you use? Also make sure the cables that operate the flaps move freely and don't have any kinks in them - a little bit of PTFE lubricant can help. The cable housings will have a sharp curve on them when fitted, wich makes it harder to operate them.

Your own budget is always a good place to start. Then why not make an offer your are happy to pay? There is plenty of info on auction sites, fleabay and the trade sites to allow you to get an average - if you are really want to buy a car, buy the best you can afford with a focus on good bodywork and as little rust/rot as possible. These were never, and certainly aren't anymore, "commodity" cars where one example the same age, miles and condition is equivalent to another, as there are too many variables - a lot depends on the buyer as well and what they are looking for. Having said all thar - if it's not a Storm (and can't be based on the year I'd say) it's a bit steep and 10-12k would be more realistic for me, but without seeing photos and looking at the carr that's just a guess. The quality of the respray is important, and slow how long ago "things were done", backd by receipts. A full glass out respray will easily set you back 5k if done properly, however a seller will not be able to revoup everything spent on a car at sale time.

They are different. Early dogs can be removed as a unit, later ones are moulded into the fog/indicator housing and only the glass can be removed with a lot of effort. The difference in the covers is probably to allow for them to clip on properly. If you bring up pics on Google of early and late Corrado fogs, you will see the difference.

At least you can be sure they will go in and out nice and easy! Not sure how it will be to drive - are there different grades of the rear poly bushes?

Pretty sure this is the figure for the bolt that goes through the bush - I guess this is where the rear axle pivots

From the Fountain of Truth:

Is the white clip from the door handle, where it sits in the door cutout?

Good pointers there on the ABS. As for the radio, if that was the last thing inI I’d definitely remove it and inspect the wiring for any weirdness. These cars came with a radio loom from factory, so there should be no need to splice in anywhere.