fendervg

Yes, from FPR to nipple on front right of inlet.

Correction - there is also a rubber grommet that sits on the hole in the bulkhead - so the metal washer goes on the spindle, then the spindle is inserted from below through the grommet, then the spacer, sits around the spindle but in the grommet from the outside, flat side out, then the lock nut. You can see it in the second picture, the flat part the same colour as the lock but is the flat side of the spacer.

Thanks for that - so it looks like the steel washer sits on the four shoulders of the spindle, then the plastic spacer, flat side to the washer and the lock nut on the outside. Will give that a go. Many thanks for the photos.

Hi all - just looking for some help and maybe pictures if possible - I'm in the middle of refubing my front wiper linkage, and forgot to make note of how the washers and spacers mount on the spindle as they go through the bulkhead. So I have: - a large metal washer - a black plastic cup spacer - a large nut So the nut obviously is the last part to go on, but a bit confused as to the spacer and the other washer - guessing that the spacer sits with the flat part up on the spindle, this mates up to the bulkhead, and then the washer and nut on the other side? Many thanks.

The OEM FRP is 4 bar, and sits on the right hand side of the fuel rail - from your picture it looks like right location and clip, but there should only be a very small vacuum host attached to a nipple, not that big hose. To remove it, take out the clip and use plumbers pliers to gently rock it out - use some silicone lubricant or penetrant spray first - but don't lever it with a screw driver as the circular housing is very soft metal and can deform easily. I guess if you are replacing, it doesn't matter too much if you damage the old one a bit.

Yeah, bent/loose or damaged ABS rings is a good bet - also, sensors or wiring can still be faulty even though your are getting good readings. On the VR6 you can pull fault codes from the ABS ECU with VCDS - not sure if this is an option on hte G60?

Ah ok - could be corrosion on the starter connections or a shot solenoid - will it jump start? Ignition switch could also be faulty.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/1157162 Any use? Seems a good price too - I'd stay away from the other cheap Chinese copies on there ("Ridex", anyone?) the names are pretty hilarious.

Do you have the full part# ? You might still be able to get a new Bosch unit - if it's used you're after, there's plenty on eBay or try the Corrado facebook groups. I haven't had any experience of it, but it's claimed that a Golf 5 V5 one will fit with some minor work, or is even a direct replacement, although that would be too easy.

Yep, stage 1 is just like any other car, 2 is noticably loud and stage 3 is like a jet turbine taking off and will drain your battery flat in about 20 minutes - don't ask me how I know!

When were you expecting fan stage 1 to come on? I presume you have read this - it gives pretty much all the low down in the first few posts: Switch On: 92-97 C (198-207 F) Switch Off: 84-91 C (183-196 F) So not too far off normal - you can also tell which speed it is by the noise of the fans - stage 1 is controlled directly from the rad sender, not the fan control unit - also remember that VCDS is taking it's reading off the blue coolant temp sender in the thermostat housing, so this may not be exactly the same as what the rad switch sees, which might explain the discrepancy. Either way there is no ECU or fan control module involvement in stage 1 - in fact the Motronic ECU has nothing at all to do with control of the fan, but monitors the engine temperature to switch from lean/rich map and engage lambda control after warm up. The coolant temp gauge on the dash also uses a sender in the thermostat housing, so once again, possibly gives a different reading. If you can get hold of a spot infra thermometer, they are handy for confirming different readings around the engine bay.

This is how the ECU reset is meant to be done to get the learned values correct: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_reset_procedure.html Clearing the fault codes is just one part of the puzzle. There was a lot of debate on if the whole procedure is needed every time, especially as it is quite time consuming and awkward, and that the car might just adapt eventually itself after a battery disconnect - some of the time a 10 minute wait with the battery disconnected seems to be enough. The main thing is, after battery disconnection, the ECU and sensor beviour can't be relied on until the learned values have been adapted to. It could also be worth taking a close look at your cam sensor/hall sender (either part of the dizzy, or to the right of the coil pack depending on year) - I've seen this cause intermittent cut-outs and stalling when faulty. Hope this helps a bit.

You can use the standard VW lights on buzzer relay from a Mk3 or later, and run some wiring to it - I think it was an earth, feed from sidelights or dash illumination circuit and the driver's door contact switch - I did this about 10 years ago, but haven't looked at it in a while - I'll see if I can find anything in the archives.

Check the blue/white wire in the radio loom - it is probably connected wrong or earthing against something randomly. It should only be connected if you have a radio that support speed dependent volume control (GALA) and not many do. Otherwise, the spoiler control module may be at fault, and worth swapping out with one that is known to work.

Could it be for the UK dim dip connector for the headlights? Although I would expect that to be part of the headlight wiring loom.

Ideally yes. because they need to be pressed or hacked out, and then the new ones pressed in - or it's possible to cut them out with a lot of work, but either way it's a lot easier with the beam off., but it can be done with the rear suspension off and the axle dropped with great difficulty. Gives you a chance to refurb the beam as well. Poly bushes are much easier to fit, but I would only use the OEM ones on the rear beam. I'd say someone else here may have done them on the car and might be able to help.

For the cables, I'd say you could just try and work some spray PTFE lubricant into them - something like bicycle chain oil. The problem is that you can't get the inner out, although it's ususally just the exposed ends that corrode, and the casing has a non-friction lining. It's once they are clipped on and there are bends in the cable that the force required to move them can increase a lot. If you can get hold of new ones I'd recommend that.

That's weird - there's definitely some tolerance out at the bottom or the side - or the top molding has warped. It will still work though, but you would need to seal the gap to prevent blower air from escaping, but I think I would just return it as nto fit for purpose. I think the last one I fitted was Valeo or Hella. Was that one listed as a Mk3 Golf version?

I reckon for that price it has to include late fogs!

It's for the very rare Karmann factory camper conversion....table extends at 45mph and retracts at 20 (if it's working)............

Haha - just watching the first bit of the video - you can see the sterring wheel jump up and down as he hits a pothole - "severely compromised" indeed.

The blue white wire has a three way joint and provides a speed signal to the dash. spoiler control module and optionally the stereo. If the unterminated one to the steroe gets grounded or hooked up to something else it will wreak havoc. Usually the result of an aftermarket stereo being fitted, as the original harness would have had that wire tucked into the correct position in the radio ISO harness plug. I use the GALA feature all the time with my Gamma IV head unit - works a treat once you calibrate it.

VW Classic Parts still have the boot popper and the rubber bump top - got some last year. They don't have the square plastic nut though, you'd need to use your old one if possible - but the usual break point is where the plastic lip is attached to the plunger - once that snaps the plunger won't stay put.

"topran" says it all really - any parts place with an interest in quality shouldn't be selling that stuff.

Good to hear! They are a bit stubborn - at leas now you know they are new and won't crumble - the window should operate a bit better as well.