potatonet

basically use the G60 ECU wiring diagram... (dont know where mine is right now) check for continuity between the wire ends. also check out this guy http://mysite.verizon.net/janvdb/vw/Eng ... blems.html

Niel think about it like this. you arent getting enough fuel, sooooo WOT wiring to ECU could be busted...? like the guy said idle fuel till WOT is opened then it dumps fuel. fuel injector wiring harness busted? that would make sense too. but the car would sound like it was running 3 cylinders.

Im with the fuel filter guy after looking at symptoms of a bad fuel filter.

um slow to accelerate and popping during acceleration is normally caused by timing being off... someone could have marked it wrong..... normally running lean if you are retarded on timing...? I think thats right, tape the WOT switch and the computer wants to dump more fuel, 02 sensor fixes this but if you hit the gas more, the fuel should dump in there. really think its the timing here, YOU NEED TO CHECK THE AFR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GET A GAUGE !!!!!!

My car always starts on the second go... putts a bit on the first go. change the ECU yet?

they should sit in their seats with no cam in. it was anywhere between 0-180 degrees out so it had the chance to hit, but it was something like 500 rpms when it ran.

So I lifted my car up to check my differential after I kept hearing this thunking noise when I started to accelerate. (it goes off and on depending on how hard I drive the car...) I put the car into gear and twisted each wheel. my passenger (USA corrado) the long axle moved a lot more than the drivers side and made the clunking noise when I moved it fast. drivers side didnt move very much at all... tell me this isnt a bad diff..... if it is then its off to quaife =-)

50 USD for an AFR gauge that looks stock isnt a bad deal. duostyling.com

I agree with darren... get AFR gauge hooked up ASAP

huh..... might explain my coolant build up on the side of my block... WTF why would they put that there?! yeah cooling makes sense, its only on PG engines?

new wot switch?

I even have a modified cam and my valves still dont clear the deck of my head.

well I would buy one from G-werks or BBM but if you know a good welder do what I did, put on a supercharger with a clutch and enough boost to feed 2 corrados, just bleed off what you dont need

what happens with your car again, 25 pages is a lot to read through

you sure that is a lead for coolant??? I remember my oil pressure being 0 and tightening that plate is what brought it back up... yeah Im almost 100% on that plate being for oil... cause mine was ridiculously loose and I wansnt loosing coolant. Im pretty sure its not coolant unless you know it is because there is coolant in it on your car... either that or my car is just REALLY wierd. how much boost would you like to run?

yesh I blew my charger on a 65mm, hence the lysholm...

you have an ISV, its broken or a fuse is blown...

65mm will put your boost at a level where you have to either have red tops or a 3.5 bar fpr... get an AFR gauge and you will see how lean it will make your engine. I was running 17 psi with 24 lbs and a 3.5 bar and I was running a tad lean, just a tad. the boost recirculate thing will just cycle the 2 psi back into your system that was bled off by the stock ISV. if you have a really good charger and you are boosting above 16 psi it really just overboosts your system, not good for your car... basically dont buy one, bleed from your ISV into catch tank. dont know what boost return you are looking at but the blanking kits arent boost return kits.

as far as I remember it does not allow for more cooling. cooling is done by your cooling channels, oil and water, the contact things. If you had a hole there it would just be a problem to deal with and it would cost more. Air is terrible for heat transfer, keeps more heat in actually (basic thermo principle) . Not to mention that stupid little hole just bleeds your oil pressure when you dont tighten the one stupid bolt down... :D

alright I need to know what is going on now. I have since had the problem fixed but I was wondering about differences between US and euro engines ( I highly doubt there is any). about 1 year and a half ago I sheared the key on my crank grear. I didnt know it at the time and I attempted to fix the "problem" that I didnt know the cause of. during this I actually tightened my crank nut (it came loose) my car ran for about 15 seconds. took it to the mechanic and he got a new gear on there. what I want to know is what is the difference between the US G60 and the UK G60, I know my timing was off by at least 180 degrees at one point, which means engine should have smashed valves according to everyone in the UK..... I never got a smashed valve... no leaks nothing.... 2 of my friends in the area with them, same problem no bent valves... 3 lucky blokes? Bentley manual states its a non interference engine.... is there something I know know between UK And US corrados??? just a mystery I was trying to clear up. Jonathan

did you bleed your brakes recently?

interesting, wonder if you can run an abs master on a corrado with no abs... It may improve the squish value... funny thing is when you put on stainless lines you change the diameter of the line from the hard line to the caliper. this change of diameter and resistance to change in diameter from the SS line increases the pressure and amount of fluid flowed to the brakes. This would create faster response in the caliper itself and if you increased the caliper size on a stock MC it should stop at the same point as your stock brakes but provide more stopping pressure. wouldnt this be ideal in the fact that you dont have to get used to the new brakes but they apply more stopping power? I would think that 6 SS lines would make up for 1mm of travel in the MC. but 23mm + ss lines would definitely increase the performance and the point in which it stopped. I would need to do some calculations on the compressibility of the fluid and the size of the plunger... but Im pretty sure it should be the same as stock position by ratios... my car stops in stock braking position with more power tho...

so I have a G60 and I was wondering because I thought I hear this a thousand times before. I removed my brakes for Girling 60 brakes from an audi 5000 have calipers laying around. can my friend with a 98 vento (jetta) 4 lug, use my calipers as an upgrade? or will they do nothing?

you dont need abs... tsk tsk tsk I have them they work fine with no ABS. I have a 22mm MC that came stock. autotech sells a 22mm for mk1's to use these brakes

I removed all of the paneling and seat and everything and I think it may be outside in the rear mount for the shock, I will replace the brakes soon so I will look there when I do that.