volksworld13

ok are you on about the connector below the master cylinder, where the o2 sensor wiring is usually black.grey.or white. and on the loom side there is diffrent colours? are you talking about that connector?

engine type vr6 or 16v? you have to be driving and the mpg will fluctuate depending on throttle postion , vacume operated guage, you may have a vacume leak as the idle is poor.

one more thing, remove the door card and inspect the loom into the body, as sometimes the wiring will chaff and create an open circuit, where the rubber boot goes into the car, remove and inspect, hope this helps/

silly question, its not the switch playing up? does the passenger window operate on drivers side, try bridging the switch.

hi if the bulb isnt blown, check you have voltage at the terminal, multimeter black on earth red on pin, i think its a 12v feed, but as it is a small bulb it maybe less? if there is no voltage , ideally a wiring diagram would, inspect the loom going inbehind the dash for damage to the wires or similarly swaped the heater controls over with a know good set, and test it! :?

no worries glad i can help :D

hi i would remove the center console and check the connection on the handbrake mechanism, there is a small metal spring clip that engages with the hand brake when pulled up with creates a circuit,you should be able to duplicate this by moving it with your finger,

i think more and more coachwork trimmers are no longer around, as the deamand has somewhat diminished, any one know of any in cornwall? we should get a group thread or a deal going with a coachwork trimmer to do all our steering wheels in nice new plush balck leather?!! :clap:

ive had nothing but trouble with windcreen fitters, heres a low down , cracked screen, ring insurance replacemnet for 80 quid, rac autoscreens, come to fit, cracked scuttle trim on removal, removed screen by cutting half your now obsolte a pillar trims up,trying to cut the sealant, installed new screen, used black sealnt to stick my scuttle down again, noted on his job card, corrosion around screen poss leak/crack.didnt syncronise the wipers after.and palms some modifyed screen with a larger rubber seal instead of the black moulded original style.one more thing, the amount of sealant he used squidges into the a pillar , so when the trims are in place you can see a big irregular load of sealnt protruding into the trim, bunch of wan**rs!!! :censored: :mad2: low and behold 6months later my drivers footwell is a bloddy swimming pool. is it really that hard to find somone good enough to fit a corrado screen. warning to all corrado lovers, remove a pillar trims /scuttle first before they arrive, and get the right screen with black mouldings on it.i cant recommend any window fitters, but i do have a really good body shop near me i will enquire!! :clap:

you need to distinguish weather it if fuel or spark causing non start, check fuel pressure is within spec ,may have blocked fuel filter , and check for a good spark when hot.

the ecu is coded to the immobiliser module and the keys, so if you swap that you will need it to be recoded with either vagcom or the stealers!

double check the crank shaft, if the bearings have gotton too hot , it may of scored and damaged the crank shaft, if this happens it will need a new engine or crankshaft! :(

more than likelt the dreaded coolant temp sensor, common problem on vw , temp sensor goes open circuit, the blue sensor in the plastic coolant housing.try this 1st :D

there you go the man himself tells you how, couldnt put it better myself! :D

if you have had the sunroof motor out, and messed around with it, it may of gone out of synronisation,,check this out 1st

yes isv stands for idle stabilisation valve, suspect coolant temp sensor open circuit, or out of perameters, check with a multimeter on ohms if open the display will read blank no reading :D

check your powersteering level and condition of oil, check belt condition and adjustment, :)

if the car runs fine when bump started , then your problem wont be partial seizure of the engine, you need to start checking the wiring from the ignition switch to the starter, they maybe high resistance in the solonoid wire, or starter main cable, you can test this with a multimeter for volt drop, check and record the voltage of the battery, then connect the red postive on the multimeter to the main red starter cable and the the black lead to earth, get someone to crank the engine , whilst you monitor the voltage on your meter is there is 0.5 volt drop between that reading and the battery voltage , then the main red starter cable or earth have high resistance , clean all connections, including battery terinal and earths, the solonoid cable is the same test procedure check for 0.5 v drop, clean or repair faulty wire, i would also check starter ring gear for damage or wear, disconnect battery and remove starer, turn engine over and examine ring gear. hope this help,

its always a risk when non gen parts fitted, the longevity of the product maybe reduced, personally id stick to genuin top mounts, not too exspensive either! :)

hey people i have the mk4 golf stler key fob for my corrado wired in the central locking kit, and it works well .good value for money, and comes with two key and blanks which you can get cut at a locksmith, the key do seem to develop play as the key wears in the flip up mechanism. :)

update, the cable wasent completly at the end, but suspect heater controls felt loose , and blower speed playing up on switch, traced root cause to cable on defrost not correctly fitted dur! and i need new heater controls, anybody got a decent heater controls kicking around , need some asap, my defrost on screen wont work. :brickwall: :brickwall:

ok so the verdict is the condesation build up can be a number of things, water ingress into the vehicle,temperature diffrences between inside and outside the car resulting in condensation, and seems quite normal on a corrado these days, so has any one heard of this fault when the vehicle was first manufactured, and complaint when the corrado was first born!!!just out of interest, is this a production normality, slight build up of condesation in the mornings? :shrug: :brickwall:

as the clips can be placed any where on the cable you can potentially lengethen or shorten the cable, and the operation of the controls, and so they don not line up right, am i right in saying this, can any one help, whos fitted new cables! :?

i need some help, the bowdem cables went tight and the heater controls went clicky wen turned to face, two new cables fitted, not the temp cable that was ok, but now ehen you turn to screen when blowers on 2-3 its goes super tight, turn blowers off still tight but no way as bad, one other question, when you tur the controls, toeach postion screen face ect, you should feel a notch or clich to know it has engaged on that setting, i take this notch feel when it has engaged properly is a control fault and not blend door fault, as my other corado feels good when turned nice notchy feel when selecting diffrent setting to inducate the correct position, just need to know if its the controls that has had it or the cables or blend doors, all work ok, but just no nice notch engagment when selecting position, and a very tight feeling on screen setting, could i have misrouted the cables incorrectly, anyone got any pics to show correct routing of the cables. any help much appreciated!!!!! :brickwall:

hey lucky me im an mot tester, and work at vw /jeep in indian queens. my car passes ok, some advisories, as they say its for you and other peoples safety, yeah rite some mot station rob you blind, making alot of money out of you, ive seen it. start sending the rados down my way!! :D