volksworld13

yes both nsf and osf inner a pillar trim are no longer available, doh!!! :( :brickwall:

get a coolant pressure tester on it, cold and hot, check for leaks, if no leaks are present and pressure drops, this indicates a head/headgasket issue. more a leak on flange/rad ect.

yes i work 4 vw the warrenty is 10yr, on paint and perferation corrosion, is the roof channels corroded under the paint, if so depending how bad it is, warranty was most likely refuse to repair it, ive seen this a few times, and warranty are tight, if its bigger than a 10 p peice, thay say its too far gone and wont claim it.

dont buy french! german all the way

could be cam cover seal or pcv valve.wash the area down ,and recheck for leaks after roaddtest.

my 2.0 8v has done 156 thousand miles, and the engine is still tight, doesnt burn oil, starts everytime, i do oil changes evey 6 months , and its still the original engine , bdy is very good, had a full respray in 2008 , i love the car to peices, as i have invested soo much money into restoring the bodywork and general mechanical systems, it wouldnt make sense selling her until i got my money out of it driving, its booked in the bodyshop next month for some more paint, and a fresh windscreen, these cars have a habit of trapping you and making you spend silly money. id be lucky to get 1500-2000 back for it, so shes a keeper for a couple more years. the 2.0 8v engine although not amazingly fast but very economical, and the engines are built strong and seem to keep going.

ok so you have eliminated the cluster by substituing with a known good one, and the temp sensor has been replaced, i would say your fault will lie in the wiring, and the fact that it is the oil temp coolant temp that are the issues, i would first start checking connector under the bonnet,for corroded terminal this can cause resitance in the wiring causuing these irratic temp readings, i would try and locate a wirind diagram, and trace the wires back.

your 8v looks very similar to myn.aqua blue, ive spent so much money on her i hate to think.im pretty hot on the 8v engine if you have any probs with it :D

hi just wondered if you can still get hold of a pillar trims, if so how much are they from the stealers?

that looks like a 2e engine ? are you sure thats an ady?

the speed sensor is located in the gearbox, id check the connection a replace this, there could be an issue with the cluster or wiring, but the sensor is the cheapest option.

same issue here windscreen pi**ing in at the top and side, due to slight corrsion around the screen frame and poor fitting, and the gromet for my bonnet release is looking persihed, and leaking.!!

if it a laser 4 wheel alignment system, i think it will be ok, it should still recognise the flag attached to the wheel wen setting it up.i cant see it giving any funny reading either, as fitting spacers on the rear is affecting camber or caster to a massive degree.

what size tyres are you running, have the inner part of your rear arch been cut, i have a lip or ledge that cuffs the tyres when weight is in there, also getting pi**ed off with the exhuast banging on the rear beam axle, does yours do this? have you found a way around it, i was thinking of flattening my exhaust where ir goes over slightly.!

happy day! :D 8)

im low on jamex coilovers, 7.5 up front 9 j on rear, the rear wheel foul the arch with two people , or luggage and stuff in the boot, depends how much weight you have in there. unless you get the arches cut and rolled. :D

check the routing of the cable, if there is a kink or mis routedit will make the cable not move freely inside, also inspect the latch assembly under the bonnet and work it manually and lots of wd40 it could be partially seized! remove work clean and reinstall, to make sure it isnt seizing or binding :D

is there a seperate oil pressure relief valve or is it built into the pump, is the fault definetly oil pressure low,has the oil pressure been measured at idle and is low? or is it a wiring or instrument cluster fault.i take the oil pressure switch has been replaced for this concern?

hi, i got one from vw , its a quantum battery .the supplier for vw that sell, they either have genuine or qunatum, quantum just as good half the prive, my battery was 55 quid 3 or 5 warranty with it cant remember. :D

climb inside the boot if you can , put back seats down with a trorch and a screwdriver remove the rear panel around the tailgate big black one. the screws are just a twist secure plastic screw, undo these and the trim should come off, you should the be able to see the rods that actuate the lock mechanism work this back and forth and the boot should open. hope this helps :D

sounds like fuel pump , but make sure its not the auxillary waterpump under the bonnet!

to be honest if you have basic mechanical skills, then give it a bash, if you get stuck, just pm me, but as the wompa sed, 2 bolts for the strut, top mount bolt and remove, i used a special ratchet through with allen key in the top to stop the it from spinning whilst undoing the top strut nut, hope this helps.

its difficult to say im a mechanic, but if you are unsure, then a garage is the only way.

they arnt too bad to do, easier on a 2 post ramp, and a 4wheel alignment would be recommened, as thre strut would need to come out! depends how mechanically minded you are? :D

vag com it, check wahat codes you have set, this will be a good indiaction where the fault lies, and try carrying out basic setting, after you have cleaned throttle body.