robrado974

Good luck .See you back in a rado next summer !!

Will have a look at the spark again . The ignition switch is one of the new black ones . Further to testing with a vagcom I am at a compleat loss atm !! Thanks for your replies mate .

It has not connected to vagcom yet Jon . I thought the return valve had gone on the pump , so I put another pump in . Need to find someone with a vagcom . All electrical plugs were cleaned around 1k back . The symptoms are as stated in my non start thread . Basically it will turn over around four times before it begins to start then dies , after another three turns of the key it will splutter and finally run . Sounds to me like not enough fuel ? . The fuel filter has only done 1k if that . I have also changed the relays . Also new are the plugs , dizzy , hall sender and crank sender . Rob

No as said Jon , I have not tested it yet . I thought the same , the fuel needs to be sent to the rail at a certain bar , I forget now , how much without looking at the manual .but yeah if it's not right then the car would be running rough? Rob

That's a bummer , we all know what they are like though, quick to take your dough and slow to pay out . I have a classic policy with performance direct , with an agreed value of 5k . Wonder if god forbid anything happened to my Rado , what excuses they would come up with ? .

Sorry mods for starting another thread , but even if I change the title it tends to get lost or over looked . Right , I have not as yet tested the bar pressure on the fuel rail , I believe it may be low and that's why it's spluttery on start up .my question is simply this , if you had low fuel pressure , would that not also affect the performance in general ? .So you could have problems starting but if you put your foot down when driving the low pressure would make no difference , or would it be hesitant because of this ? Many thanks again !! Rob .

Thanks for replies , much appreciated . Rob .

I replaced all three of these , a thousand miles back . So I'm right in saying that it won't always run fast ?

Unbelievable really over £400 for two pieces of rubber !!!!!!

As above , will your Vr run fast from cold even if its been in the sun All day ? Or should it run at normal tick over ? Is this because the sender is sending the message that it does not need any air ? Rob

Bump new question on first post .

Thanks Stone . The idle is now as it should be ,reving high on start up from cold and droping to normal idle when ready. Still need to sort the start problem though , first port of call is testing the fuel pressure , if thats fine obviously then i can eliminate the fuel filter not being blocked , should not be as its only done 1000 miles . Rob

Sounds ok mr hag . Nothing changed in the swop over period did it ? . If not I will take it thanks Rob

Anyone got one of these please ? .the large pipe that comes off throttle body to maf. Thanks, Rob .

Right I have found a split in the large hose that the maf is attached to . Have glued a bit of plastic over it for now and it fires up ok , not as quick as before but it's running fast on warm up now and was not before . Not sure if I've solved it but this has helped . Will put up a wanted note for another hose . Thanks for help people . Rob .

Morning bump , c'mon , any more info ? Thanks Rob

Thanks for reply , forgot to mention I have cleaned isv . Then borrowed one off a mate , cleaned that before it went back on as well . Just been out to start the car , it does fire but the revs are struggling a bit then it sits at idol fine . Rob .

Hi all Well what I thought was the fuel pump causing my starting problems isn't . I can't check the bar pressure until next week though . I've looked through the search at similar problems , but can't see any the answer I need . The car is struggling to fire and very spluttery , it won't tick over till it gets warm . Usually as you will know when you fire up a Vr it runs fast then the revs drop and it sits at idol . Mine however has stopped doing this and tries to sit at idol straight away , the revs are bouncing up and down all over the place . I have over the last 500 miles replaced the dizzy and hall sender , plugs , crank sender and fuel filter . I have checked pipes for holes , all electric plugs have been taken off and cleaned . The only way to describe the problem is it is like when you run out of fuel and you refill the tank and it's trying to start as the fuel is being pumped through . As always any help is much appreciated , thanks . New question . If your vr has been sat in the sun and you start it for the first time should it still run fast on start up??, or is it because the temp sender is warm ,that it will run on normal tick over from first starting ? . Rob .

Engine code should be on the head or the side of the block .There are quite a few different gasket sets ,as they chopped and changed around a lot .

Being a good mate of matt's , I know the effort and care he puts in to anything he does . Well said bud .

Trying to stop , it's a hard habit to break bud .

I have the same problem , no matter how much foam or Velcro strips I use it still squeaks , doesn't help that I don't have a head unit so no music to drown it out !

They were only fitted to early cars weren't they ? . Chris langdons and robs cars are both around 94 and have plain plastics .

Did the g60's not come with colour coded roundels ? Or are you just after a chrome one ? .

The rate our bits are being deleted , we need classic parts on everything .