G60

heh. i'd be there if i could mate! i have a couple friends over there right now but i doubt they'll be stopping in. SHE likes corrados.. HE doesn't.. hehehe

..just the way that works for me. cheers :afro:

i'm way over here in canada and i own two cars that came out of karmann. 8) :lol: i was able to find the corrado in their history.. its just hidden in that flash presentation. they used to have a better history page, too bad they changed it. if you're able to find it.. the ford xr4ti is on the same page, that's the other car i have from karmann. not the best looking, but its a 4 cylinder turbo to the rear wheels... and either mine was modded before i got it.. or the 145hp karmann lists has no problem spinning the tires going into 3rd gear! :D

forum shirts with nicks printed on them. :)

get a friend (or a brick) to floor it with the engine off, and adjust the cable from the engine side so flooring the pedal makes the cable pull so far as to just barely hit the full throttle switch. then make sure that your idle switch still engages.. it will be a little *click*.. if it doesn't, loosen the adjustment off a notch until the idle switch clicks.

dont bother with the garage... they'll charge more than its worth for labour. its an easy job and a cheap part. heh heh. i've replaced the cable in my corrado last year. if anything... it made the accelerator pedal even heavier!! ..if ya know what i mean :lol: ..or maybe my foot weighs more.

i have both the rallye and RSR outlet. i bought the rallye but then realized that the inner diameter of it is only 3". this is fine if you have a stock or very mildly ported charger. if you have the outlet ported you will need the RSR outlet as its inner diameter is 3.22" which is wide enough to handle the porting. now.. the rallye outlet hose/hardware tapers down to 2.25".. the setup i got from kompressor kanada uses a 2.25" piece of pipe to mate the outlet/hose with the rest of the intake system. BUT, the RSR outlet uses a piece of pipe that's inner diameter is only 2"! so.. i've wasted way more money than i should have here, i bought both, used the RSR outlet, but the hose/pipe from the rallye outlet. this setup is then 3.22" inner diameter where it meets the charger and it tapers to 2.25", the same diameter as the rest of the intake system. very snug fit but it will work. the two outlets are available for the same price over here so cost was not an issue. i'm going to return the rallye outlet and get most of the cash back, minus the $$$ for the hose/pipe that i nicked from that setup :lol: maybe someone will make up an outlet that will have an even larger inner diameter!! now that would be the shit! :thumb right:

many people have said its not worth it. i was planning on it but am slowly being talked out of it. if anything, put the tank somewhere other than the engine bay.. like the back seat and make it so you can throw some ice in there when you want.

ya something nasty is happening.. but fuel filters get neglected as they are not specified as a regular service item. its always a good thing to cross off the list of potential problems if it hasn't been done recently.

ya, try fuel filter first for sure. cheap and easy to replace.

i've found a parts car without engine/tranny/interior/ecu/harness that i may buy since its a good deal and i can use a lot of the parts that are still on the car. it still has complete dash/gauges/steering wheel.. so i'm going to get the ignition switch and all that assembly out of the parts car.. along with the wire connector into the ignition switch which the guy says is still in the car.. and try to hook that all into the current harness. you're right, it will be a nightmare.. and yes i'd prefer a new harness.. but now isn't the time for that. just need to get the car rolling.

i'll try to keep this short. going fairly hard off the line in 1st, and just as i'm about to shift to 2nd, JERK, and the power dies. can't start the car back up. get the car coasted to the side of the road and try to start it a couple more times. notice a puff of smoke coming out of the steering column.. about 5 seconds later its about twice as bad..another 5 seconds and its billowing smoke..i'm thinking my car is about to go up in flames. can't get the key out..rip the bottom steering column cover off..*poof* smoke everywhere, finally get the key out.. try to smother the area as good as i can.. run out and pull battery terminals, smoke stops completely, and i'm left with.. ignition seems to be fried up inside..siezed together. i can't turn the key at all.. we had to tow the car home from the back with a dolley on the front because i couldn't get the front wheels straighted without having the key turned over in the ignition. one wire coming off the ignition in steering column has the cover completely melted/singed off.. it looks a black wire but that could be from burning. so basically.. ignition is seized up and the wiring coming off of it is fried. :x :x :x i imagine i'll need a new ignition. is this a simple enough DIY replacement..if i can even find a replacement? the wires coming off of the ignition are toast..are these attatched right to the main wiring harness? is it time for a new harness or could i have an electrical shop work with this one? i'm about at the end of my rope with this car.. thinking about just storing it away now until i win a lottery somewhere but i need to fix this so i can move the car! :? thanks for any help..

good luck andy. i just had a chat with darren, and he suggested i check the 1 meter hose from intake manifold to ECU again since i've determined that the lambda sensor is good so its not that. i checked the hose a couple weeks ago and zip tied the ends to be sure it wouldnt come off under hard boost..but it turns out... the end that goes to the intake manifold has gone mushy! i guess when i was fumbing around back there running the air/fuel gauge lines i must have agrivated the old rubber. i cut off the end bit and went for a quick boot around the block and the power is back! thank god. to the parts store after work for a proper length of 1 meter vacuum line. moral of the story.. just cuz you think its fixed/okay doesn't mean it is so check again... and daz is the man! woo darren saves the day again (and he's an ocean away!). http://www.g-werks.com :thumbleft:

AMEN TO THAT!! :x bloody PO scratched up passenger and boot panes right good. :x :x :x

keep us posted. sounds exactly like what i'm experiencing with my G60 right now. i have done.. new oem plugs/wires and i cleaned the plugs again just about 50km ago when i did the o2 sensor. new o2 sensor and all new wiring from the connector on. rigged up an a/f guage and seems to cycle fine and go rich on throttle. new blue coolant temp sensor. isv, carbon cannister and boost return deleted. ..performance seems to have dropped off when i deleted the isv/boost return which makes no sense to me. i might put them back on and see. i also just had a new cat put on... i thought the proper backpressure would help... nope. new oil and fuel filters.. oem of course. only thoughts i have on it now are that its either a vacuum line leak... the line that goes off to the brake booster branches off a couple times which i dont like. could be that i torqued the knock sensor down too tight and its picking up crazy knock from my old clicky motor all the time. or.. timing is way retarded. any other ideas?? serious loss of power.. and this comes after lots of work and LOTS of money and i'm p***** :x :x :x

light will flash if the level is too high or too low.

well at part throttle the butterfly isnt closed completely... it is still letting off boost. so under certain conditions it will whistle. mine does this.. however i know i have some serious boost leak problems right now. if the butterfly whistles at wide open throttle then thats a problem..

just leave that plug hanging... just for a heater element and you dont need it. youre right about the idle screw location. buy a spare if you're gonna fuck with it.. i blew mine off on saturday after adjusting it.. been whistling all weekend.. goin to pick up a new one after work. :roll:

i might be going the same way leew.. had a line on a tidy, lowered, black mk1 GTI with a 1990 engine in it.. but the dumbass bought a 337 (limited GTI.. do you have those in europe) and traded the mk1 for $100 or something stooooopid. so i'm still looking.. but i wont sell the corrado. im going to stick it in a shed and hope i win the lottery. i pay $420 a month for insurance on that thing!! ..and its running like ass at the moment. very disappointing, but i know whats wrong.. just can't justify the $$$. i'm getting a place downtown with my girlfriend.. sometimes real life has to come before fun toys.. :cry:

i'm in canada... next door neighbour has a mk1 cabrio 1.8L, mk2 jetta 1.8L and a shaved mk2 golf TDI and the next house over they have a new beetle and new 1.8T passat.. and of course my rado.

naw you can just vampire tap it to the existing o2 sensor.. or solder it up properly. oil pressure also comes on as a flashing light. i'd say air/fuel and boost are the most important to me.. being the two gauges i have. i just had a problem where oil wouldn't stay in the engine. the light came on, i drove home (about 45 seconds) and the light saved the day since it was an easy fix. although.. i do want to get oil pressure and a volts gauge.

lol rams. that sounds like me :lol:

cheers to that! :D

ya, 1.8L head is supposed to be better than the 2L head.. but the 2L block is prefered over the 1.8L since it has more displacement. :)

try looking around the forum for past posts... there has been talk about all of these i believe so you might get better info looking through past posts. i personally don't know squat about the 16v but i've heard that things like cams are an improvment (if you get the right ones) but might not be worth the money for many people.