G60

you can just block it off, but dubcharged's point is that you should rig up a second intake and bring some more cold air into the charger. thats what i'll be doing now that my charger is back from the rebuild. it is safe to just vent to the atmosphere, but stick a crankcase breather filter on the blow off on the bottom of the throttle body so no crap gets in. not sure about adjusting linkage so the butterfly closes sooner.... you should have it adjusted so it is just hitting the WOT switch when the pedal is in the floor... if you have it set too tight (which i think is what you're talking about) you'll stretch the cable and it will go down the shitter... its a part worth replacing anyway if you already have a stiff pedal... if you dont have a stiff pedal yet, you will soon with a cable setup too tight! :shock:

i think its already advanced on my car... but ya, i'll be setting this all up again after i talk to sam and jwatts at sns. pretty sure you just loosen the distributor and turn it forward 6 degrees..tighten 8) you might want to mess with your mixture at the CO pot as well... i need an air/fuel gauge dammit, i keep forgetting!!! :x

errr.. pretty sure thats a golf! ..but i'm sure you knew that kev :lol: anyone seen the eip stage 6 vr in a corrado? ..the rauscher one is the fastest ive found.. .there are a few golf vr's over 800hp tho...

lol! my girlfriend's wankelin' me right now homey :lol:

got the charger back just after 9am this morning completely rebuilt, ported and knife-edged with 3-fin knife-edged rallye outlet, 68mm serp belt, sns stage 3 and sns stage 5-5 chips... thats about 100 hours after it showed up at kompressor kanada's door. props to dave and those guys for excellent service and unbelievable turnaround. :thumbleft: ..and thanks to sns for getting some 5-5s up to us canucks so quick. :) it looks pretty, i can't wait to get it in the car. turns out when i measured again, that it IS only a 68mm pulley on there, not 65mm like i measured last summer.. . .. .i must have been drunk. :roll: now i still have room to go to a 65mm if i want.

very well explained kev. the guy with the diesel rado with 400+ ft/Ibs of torque is my hero.

thanks for all the replies guys!!! woo! :lol: ..i think i've figured it out, so don't bother explaining it. turns out i should be able to loosen that little metal piece that needs to slip out, but mine can't be loosened.. there's not bolt. so i need to be creative i guess :?

you probably cracked or loosened the screen that pulls air into the car, but is supposed to keep the water out. its to the left of the ECU. mess with that and youll find the leak.

hey guys, so i'm out in the shed taking the front end of the car off, and man what a hack job by whoever put it on last time!! i wont even get into that, i found a WINGNUT. anyway... :? got it all off, the upper rad support has the hood release going through it.. and without taking the release apart from the inside of the car (which i think you can do by removing the lower dash... pita) how do you get it off of there? :x there is a metal piece on the passenger end (might be switched for you RHD folks) of the cable that needs to slip out of the little metal loop thats holding it all in place. problem is.. you can't get enough slack going to slip it out of there. anyone taken their upper rad support out? how did you get the hood release cable off without mangling it? how much is a new cable? anyone know? if its under $25 i'll just the cut the old one.. dont want to, id rather get it out in one piece. thanks a lot guys.. hoping to get it off right after work. ..oh, did i mention?..just got my stage 4 charger back from kompressor kanada, one week turnaround woohoo!

what do we need the rear wiper for anyway.. really? ive always stuggled with getting it to work how i want... i'm just deleting it when i do the bodywork on the rear end. i have cruise :D ..you guys may think its mickey mouse, but im sure you all know how heavy your foot can get in a corrado, it always seems im going much faster than it feels. if i'm heading through an area known for pigs with radar, i get up to 10 over, click my cruise, and chill out. haven't been on any long trips yet, but i'm sure it will come in handy then too... we have a LOT of flat straight roads here in canada, especially when you're out of the cities. if you have cruise, you will be able to push a little button in on the end of the left-side stalk (on a LHD anyway..) dude, if you think the interior is shabby, pick any north american car, go sit in it for 5 seconds, and get back to me. :lol:

i'm going to cut and paste a big ol' chunk of text that Gerry posted to the US list. hope this isn't a problem... cross-posting or whatever. its good info... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Let's see if we can start a camshaft discussion here :-) So, the basic function of the camshaft (hereafter called cam, because I'm lassy) is to time the opening and closing of the valves with respect to the position of the crankshaft. The cam determines when each valve opens and closes, how fast the open and closes (assuming the valve springs have enough force to prevent valve float), and how much each valve opens when it's fully open. Why is this important? All these factors affect how much air goes in and out of the cylinder, when the air goes in and out, and how fast it can go in and out. This, in turn, determines the shape of the power curve of the engine. OK, there are two meassurements that are used generally used to identify cams, 100% open duration and lift. Duration is meassured from the point when the valve completes closing to the point when the valve starts to open, and determines how long the valve is open. Lift is the difference between the height of the lobe and the base circle of the cam, and tells you how much the valve opens. Now, these numbers can be deceiving, particularly duration, because it tells you a very small part of the performance characteristic of the cam. More important than duration are overlap, the time between the exhaust valve being fully open and the intake valve being fully open, and lobe profile. Some performace people actually refer to "valve overlap" as duration, because it's more significant figure to drivability and power band than actual duration of each valve. So, what to look for in a cam? Well, lets touch on some more basics. At low RPM the cylinder wants to see air moving at high speed to generate torque. That means that you want the valves to be open for a long time (small duration). Also, because there is a large amount of time between the cylinder being at full exhaust and it being at full intake, the engine likes small overlaps. As the RPMs increase the time between full exhaust and full intake is reduced, so the engine can tolerate more overlap. Also, the time it takes the piston to travel from the top of the travel (TDC) and the bottom of the travel (BDC) is reduced, which means there is less time to fill the cylinder with air, and less time to clean it of exhaust. OK, with that information, how does cam duration, overlap, and lift, affect the power band? At low RPM you don't want too much overlap, because there is too much time for the intake gases to escape through the exhaust valve. You also want a mild lobe profile, because this allows less volume of air to come into the cylinder as the piston starts to move into the intake cycle, increases the air capacity as the piston speeds through the middle of the stroke, and then reduces it again as the piston slows down when it gets closer to the bottom of the stroke. A fat profile (small duration), with a nice slope, matched to the dynamic volume of the cylinder, and low overlap, gives the engine a nice and fat torque curve at low RPM. Now, as the RPMs increase, and the time for the cylinder to fill up decreases, this low overlap cam doesn't give enought time for the cylinder to fill up or clean up, so the power is decreased in the high end. As you approach higher RPMs, say 4500+, the cam starts to limit the amount of air that the cylinder can move, and it the power drops off rapidly. At high RPM the engine wants lots of air. Since there is less time for the cylinder to fill up, it also likes the valve to open faster and earlier in the cycle. So, the engine wants the cam profile to get more aggressive, which opens and closes the valve faster. A more aggressive profile requires shorter duration. The engine also likes high lift, because it wants lots of air. Also, since it wants the intake valve to open earlier in the cycle, it likes more overlap. As you can see, increasing overlap will increase high RPM horsepower, it will also increase how high in the RPM band you have power at. It also degrades low RPM torque. In high overlap cams it affects the low end so much that idle degrades and gets bumpy. This is where the variable valve timing systems (VVTi, Vtec, etc) come into play. They change cam overlap with RPM, which is doable when the intake and exhaust valves are controlled by separate cams. Lets summarize a bit. A high overlap, low duration, and high lift cam, will give you better top end horse power higher in the RPM range. This will be at the expense of low end torque, some idle degradation, and in extreme cases drivability issues. A low overlap, high duration cam will give you better low end torque, and the engine will run out of air at a lower RPM. There are essentially four options for the G60. Neuspeed 260, Autotech assymetric 260/256, Techtonics assymetric 268, and BBM assymetric 268. BTW, an assymetric cam has a different duration for intake and exhaust. I don't know much about the Neuspeed 260, but the Autotech is quite a bit cheapper, and I like the assymetric nature. The Autotech is a very good all-around cam. It gives you improved high end HP, enough air flow to run around 6800 RPM, and only a trained ear would notice the difference at idle. I haven't tested the 268 myself (it's on the list of upgrades), but here are my expectations, which include information I've heard on the list. The 268 should give you enough flow to run up to 7000 or 7200 RPM. It will give you a bit more HP, probably a couple ponies, with a corresponding reduction of low end torque. It will also be quite a bit bumpier at idle, although still barely noticeable. As a reference, I had a 276 on my old GTI, and it sputtered a bit at idle, but if you didn't know what a cam sounds like you'd attribute it to dirty injectors or something like that. If you have a stock engine, with a stock head, you might not get the full advantage of the 268. With a P&P head you'll probably notice a bigger difference. OK, this is becoming a book...sorry about the lenght. Gerry 90 G60-GT ----------------------------------------------------------------------- :)

i can't argue with that man.. fuh fuh fuuuuck the police. and we wont write our congressman because we're not yanks eh, mate :lol:

haha. doesn't make any sense to me! if it were up to me they would have made all corrados 16vG60 synchros... but hey, what can ya do?!!

G60 was marketed as a performance machine, performance before comfort VR6 was marketed as a luxury automobile with power, comfort before performance i'm puttin an IC vent in v soon... now THAT is what i'd like to know about.... why didn't VW optimize the IC location by ducting cold air to it and cutting away the wheel liner in behind it? seems a step they just left out.. but the 1.8T IC setup is much better, but in the same location. maybe they learnt from past mistakes... :?

yep, you're right... 3rd gen rx7 was the last rotary now that i think about it. you said a lot of things there that i could really go off about..and im sure everyone knows about fast and the furious... its only the movie that ruined the scene for the rest of us who were already on the scene........ anyway... all i'm gonna say is... horsepower means nothing man, and yes... torque IS everything... the dynamics of a rotary engine make it so that the horsepower/torque comparison to a regular piston engine is kind of like comparing apples to oranges.. you can't really just compare numbers and be all that accurate in deciding which car is faster. torque is what its all about. sure a 250hp four banger would beat a 250hp v8... the weight savings on the 4cyl engine alone is enough to make the difference.. now take into consideration that the chassis of the car with the v8 is also probably 2000Ibs heavier and there you go... nothing to do with torque in that comparison... its all about power to weight ratio. and look at that civic thing this way... if you have a fast civic, it MUST be because of horsepower... because hondas dont have any torque!!! lol ..torque has to do with the sheer ripping force while getting a dead weight moving from a dead stop (basically. thats a simple way to think about it). hondas dont weigh much... so the lack of torque doesn't hurt them nearly as much as it would in a double-the-weight musclecar. i really hope this doesn't snowball or im gonna have to come back in here and be abrasive with ya. :lol:

sounds like youre saying that early and late bumpers are the same but they use spacers for the lights... actually, there are subtle differences in the bumper's appearance as well.. 99% of people can't tell though :wink:

wouldn't that be a nice setup to stumble upon in the yard!!!? :shock:

2nd gen mitsu eclipses are better imho.. they have crank walk problems but you can swap in 1st gen parts to combat that. very quick cars... i saw one run a high 10sec 1/4 on video somewhere.. a worthy competitor based on performance and price? i'll go with a classic from my childhood.. '86 5L mustang cobra, not sure about price, but it should be close. '86 5L.. last year of the hardcore block, first year with EFI :thumb right: ..definitely faster in a straight line, the corrado would make up slack in the corners... but a highly modded rado will own a basic 5L in a straight line. i haven't found a car that compares to the corrado as far as visual appeal, power, handling, fun factor, and price.

..check and see what kind of torque those things put out. i think i may be mistaken but i seem to remember it being rediculously low. :? here's an article with some 2nd gen turbo info: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/turbo2.htm

yeah kevin..rotary. rev it until your ears bleed! thats what you're overlooking corradoboy18.. rx7s are rotary which produces a very unique sound! those 2nd gen rx7s were the last rotary engines until mazda brought it back in the new rx8. maintenance on those isnt cheap.. i hear they throw gaskets like nothin.

i think its the same design but without the u-bend...... i think.

i have one from a 20vT that im going to try to cram in there... its a tight squeeze in the stock location, dont know if it will go... ill have to have new end tanks made up and welded on im sure... the stock plastic vw end tanks are poo anyway. dont bother with the bbm overpriced shiz.. grab a cooler from a volvo T5, its efin huge man... if you're spewing spare cash, if anything, buy a spaerco core and get some end tanks made up.

darren (pdm) sells the rallye for around £75.. dont quote me, but if thats not right its not much more than that! ..and thats the new 3-fin design... and darren can port it for ya if you're a wildman, i'm sure.

oil stat? where did you find the plate?

any word on a cheap sandwich adapter thatll work? how did the mk1 work out?